Tuesday, July 31, 2018

DAVID EVINS | INDEX

1962 | Meet & Greet DAVID EVINS
Source: The Los Angeles Times | August 29, 1962



1948 | DAVID EVINS
THE NAUGHTY SILHOUETTE | A REVOLUTIONARY V-CUT FOR I.MILLER

1952
LADY GODIVA

1956 | DAVID EVINS
FOR GRACE KELLY

1958 - 1960

1967
GOLD CHAIN SLINGBACK

1968
THE "SERPENTINE" SANDAL

1985
BELLA




Source: LIFE magazine | May 28, 1965

Friday, July 27, 2018

WHAT DO SHOES TASTE LIKE? BY GABRIEL GARCIA MARQUEZ

February 28, 1955, brought news that eight crew members of the destroyer Caldas, of the Colombian Navy, had fallen overboard and disappeared during a storm in the Caribbean Sea …

… A search for the seamen began immediately, with the cooperation of the U.S. Panama Canal Authority ..

… after four days, the search was abandoned and the lost sailors were officially declared dead. A week later, however, one of them turned up half dead on a deserted beach in northern Colombia, having survived ten days without food or water on a drifting life raft. His name was Luis Alejandro Velasco. This book is a journalistic reconstruction of what he told me, as it was published one month after the disaster in the Bogotá daily El Espectador.

Gabriel García Márquez
From: “Story of a Shipwrecked Sailor.” 


April 28, 1955
Louis Alejandro Velasco's Odissey
Source: Z Block'15


“The relief I felt while chewing the cards spurred my imagination to look for things to eat. If I had had a knife, I would have cut up my shoes and chewed slices of the rubber soles. They were the closest thing at hand. I tried to pry off the clean, white soles with my keys. But I couldn’t pull off a piece of the sole, it was glued so tightly to the fabric.”


1953 | Denson
Source: HistoryWorld

“For using a certain brand of chewing gum and saying so in an ad, I received a thousand pesos. I was lucky that the manufacturer of my shoes gave me two thousand pesos for endorsing them in an ad. For permitting my story to be told on radio I received five thousand. I never imagined that surviving ten days of hunger and thirst would turn out to be so profitable. ”

Gabriel García Márquez
From: “Story of a Shipwrecked Sailor.” (Knopf, 1986 - First published 1970)



SHOES & BOOKS
[FEAT. HEMINGWAY, SHAKESPEARE, SARAMAGO, RANKIN, GALEANO ...]



Gabriel García Márquez
Relato De Un Náufrago (Debolsillo, 2003 - First published 1970)

Tuesday, July 24, 2018

INSIDE VIEW OF YANTORNY & BOLDINI BY MERCEDES DE ACOSTA

One day in 1960, Greta Garbo was standing in a health food store in New York City when she saw a “long-toed, silver-buckled shoe” and the edge of “a black highwayman’s cape.” She knew immediately that it was Mercedes (De Acosta).

Lisa Cohen
From: All We Know. Three Lives. (Farrar, Staruss And Giroux - 2012) 


1923 | Portrait of Mercedes de Acosta | Detail
Source: Here Lies The Heart by Mercedes de Acosta (Andre Deutsch, 1960)

A fifties friend, Buddy Radisch, told Kornbluth, “Andy (Warhol) was the classic star fuc**r, but he had nothing to contribute, he couldn’t speak,” and went on to describe a picnic with Garbo. Andy was invited by Mercedes de Acosta; her unabashedly lesbian autobiography, "Here Lies the Heart", which caused Garbo to drop her, had not yet been published.
Andy considered de Acosta the height of elegance because not only were her shoes made in Europe, but her shoe trees were made by a violin maker. He was beside himself to be in the presence of Garbo, but couldn’t think of anything to say to her, so he drew a butterfly and handed it to her.
At the end of the day she absentmindedly crumpled it and left it. Andy picked it up off the ground, and had his mother write across it, “Crumpled butterfly by Greta Garbo.” Even then, Andy knew how to turn his rejection into an object, pain into art.
Bob Colacello
From: Holy Terror. Andy Warhol Close Up (Harper Collins Publishers, 1990)


1914 - 1919 | Pietro Yantorny | Shoe trees
Donated by Mercedes De Acosta in 1953 to The Brooklyn Museum
Source: Metropolitan Museum of Art


A good story, nicely told, as always by Bob Colacello. The shoe trees part however is off target. Here how it was, as told by none other than Mercedes de Acosta herself.

The most beautiful things about all the shoes he (Yantorny) made for Rita (De Acosta Lydig) were the trees. He wanted to fashion them out of the lightest wood possible, so he made them out of violins. 
Rita bought old violins and he transformed them into shoetrees so exquisite that they are works of art in themselves. Stark Young asked if he might have a pair of the trees to put on a table in his living room. He said he considered them equal to any work of art.
Mercedes De Acosta
From: Here Lies The Heart (Andre Deutsch, 1960)


1925 - 30 | Pietro Yantorny | Shoe trees
Gift of Mrs. Edward G. Sparrow, 1969


While Mercedes De Acosta follows Cecil Beaton's lead about Yantorny being East Indian (he was not), she cast some light on the work of the Italian shoemaker:

He went into designing and making shoes because he had a passion for them. He had his own ideas about making them, and he didn't make them for everyone. If Yantorny decided to make you a pair he would make a cast of your feet in plaster, at the same time measuring every inch of booth feet. 
He would observe them walking barefoot to ascertain just where the weight was placed and he would feel them, holding and balancing them in his hands. He would ask you to contract them and make them limp and then put you through a series of toe-spreadings.  
If he finally decided to make you your shoes, you could count on the first pair being delivered in about two years. If he liked you very much, as he did Rita, you might hope to get them in a year, or, if a miracle occurred, in six months.


TOP: 1911 | Giovanni Boldini | Rita de Acosta Lydyg's portrait | Detail
BELOW: 1925 - 1930 | Pietro Yantorny | Metropolitan Museum of Art


Let's just assume the footgear depicted were Yantorny's, so it's more than fair to say Boldini did them justice; not an easy feat after finishing painting that dress. Here's what Mercedes De Acosta - Rita's sister - said about the paintings:

Boldini painted a number of portraits of Rita and I went with her occasionally to his studio when she was posing for him. When he painted he sometimes wore a bowler hat. He was a highly nervous, energetic and astute little man with a flair for style and chic that no other portrait painter in this century ever surpassed. 
Mercedes De Acosta
From: Here Lies The Heart (Andre Deutsch, 1960)


Portrait of Rita de Acosta Lydyg | Oil on canvas - Private collection
Source: Wikipedia


PIERRE YANTURNY | BOOT MAKER IN PARIS
A.K.A. YANTURNY - A.K.A. YANTOURNY
I N D E X

SHOES & BOOKS
[FEAT. HEMINGWAY, SHAKESPEARE, SARAMAGO, RANKIN, GALEANO ...]



Mercedes De Acosta
Here Lies The Heart (Andre Deutsch, 1960)
Jacket Photograph by Marlene Dietrich

Friday, July 20, 2018

THE KIDS AND THEIR CRAZY SNEAKERS | FEAT. HARLAN COBEN

Kiwi | The Quality BOOT POLISH
Source: LongWhiteKid

Chaz wore an expensive, chintzy, perfectly tailored suit, the kind that glistens as though wet, a tie Windsored by someone who had too much time on their hands, and Ferragamo shoes that brought to mind that old adage about judging a man by the shine of his shoes. The adage was crap. Guys who always shined their shoes were usually self-involved asswipes who figure superficiality trumps substance.

Harlan Coben
From: Missing You (Dutton, 2014)


Dandy-Shiner | The only rigid shoe-holder
Source: Period Paper


“Your friends from Princeton.”

“Ivy Leagues, man. Some guy wore green shoes. I hate green shoes.”

“Me too.”

“The Ivy Leagues.”

“That’s right. Your friends from the Ivy League. ”

Harlan Coben
Caught (Dutton, 2010)


Green loafers by Bass Weejuns
Source: somewhere on the dark net



“Dear God, what are you wearing?”

Muse sat up. “What?”

“Your wardrobe. It’s like a frightening new Fox reality show: When Policewomen Dress Themselves. Dear God. And those shoes…”

“They’re practical,” Muse said.

“Sweetheart, fashion rule one: The words shoes and practical should never be in the same sentence.” 

Harlan Coben
The Woods (Dutton Adult, 2007)


Make Google Do It
Source: The Hall Of Lame


“I threw on shorts and laced up my basketball shoes.

“Lame,” I heard a voice say.

I turned. It was Buck. “Excuse me?”

“Your sneakers.” He pointed at them. “Did you get them out of, like, some sales bin?”

Snort. Laugh. Snort.

“Um, yeah,” I said.

While I didn’t think that my reply was particularly clever, Buck seemed lost by it. “Well, they suck.”

“Thanks.” I pointed at his feet. “Yours are very pretty.”

Buck bent in close to me, his mouth inches from mine. “Why don’t you do everyone here a favor and go home?”

I leaned away. “And why don’t you do everyone here a favor and carry breath mints?”

Harlan Coben
Seconds Away: A Mickey Bolitar Novel (G.P. Putnam's Sons, 2012)



Make Google Do It / Part 2
Source: The Hall Of Lame



Janice Matley saw George’s sneakers first.

The toes were jutting out from the doorway of the lab. They were black sneakers, or at least the toe part was black. With the kids and their crazy sneakers nowadays, who knew what color the rest of the sneaker was? Her grandson had a pair of Nike Air Jordans that had more colors than a rainbow.

She swallowed. “Who’s there?” she called out.

Her voice, she was surprised to hear, sounded steady, confident.

“I said, who’s there?”

She saw the foot slide forward. The sneaker was completely black after all. Reeboks, as a matter of fact. 

Harlan Coben
Miracle Cure (British American Publishing, 1991)


Nike VS Reebok
Rainbow Is The New Black


SHOES & BOOKS
[FEAT. HEMINGWAY, SHAKESPEARE, SARAMAGO, RANKIN, GALEANO ...]



Keds for Kids
Source: Period Paper

Tuesday, July 17, 2018

1961 | SLENDER NEW STYLES | BETH & HERBERT LEVINE


1961 | Beth & Herbert Levine
Any Day - Any Week - Any Month
Source: The Orange Leader (Orange, Texas) | June 18, 1961


… shoes are always chosen by the most discriminating women. We are pleased to present these truly elegant shoes for you. For many years it has been our goal to bring the very best to Orange (Texas). 

Now you can enjoy the ultimate in fashion and beauty in Herbert Levine fine shoes.
You must see these to appreciate them, therefore, only a silhouette is illustrated. 

Herbert Levine ad
The Orange Leader (Orange, Texas) | June 18, 1961



Black Roses…
from Herbert Levine

For late-day, the glamour of great silk organdie roses with jet centres, jet dewdrops …posed on a beautifully cut slipper of luminous black patent. Also in turquoise patent. Each 36.95.

Herbert Levine ad
Detroit Free Press | March 12, 1961


1961 | Beth & Herbert Levine
The model “Black Roses”
Source: Detroit Free Press | March 12, 1961

1961 | Beth & Herbert Levine
The model “Black Roses”
Source: eBay

1961 | Beth & Herbert Levine
The model “Black Roses” | detail
Source: eBay



Herbert Levine
expresses the ultimate in fine footwear in this superb pump in black silk suede with a velvet collar and pearl stickpin, set on high wine glass heels. Also in magenta.

Herbert Levine ad
The Tennessean | September 24, 1961
1961 | Beth & Herbert Levine
The model “Royal Plum”
Source: The Tennessean | September 24, 1961

1961 | Beth & Herbert Levine
The model “Royal Plum”
Source: eBay

1961 | Beth & Herbert Levine
The model “Royal Plum” | detail
Source: eBay

1961 | Beth & Herbert Levine
Cut-out dress pump & Royal Plum
Source: Detroit Free Press | October 22, 1961



Unfortunately we couldn’t find the name of the rarely seen cut-out dress pump next to the Royal Plum. It’s matter of time, I guess, but of course any help will be appreciated.


BETH & HERBERT LEVINE
I N D E X


1961 | Beth & Herbert Levine
Cut-out dress pump (Collection of Maureen Reilly)
Source: Hot Shoes - 100 Years (Schiffer Publishing Ltd., 1998)

Friday, July 13, 2018

1957 - 1959 | SUN SPOTS AND HURDY GURDY | BETH & HERBERT LEVINE

1957 | Beth & Herbert Levine
The model “Sun Spots”
Source: Hartford Courant (Hartford, CT) | May 19, 1957


What goes with everything?
Multi-colored Polka Dots on White Washable Leather. 
An Exciting idea.

Source: Hartford Courant (Hartford, CT)
May 19, 1957



1959 | Beth & Herbert Levine
The model “Hurdy Gurdy”
Source: Etsy

1959 | Beth & Herbert Levine
The model “Hurdy Gurdy”
Source: Etsy


Two years later the brand showcased a couple of “Sun Spots” spin-off: the “Hurdy Gurdy” (actual model still to be found) and the “High Tie”. More polka dots can be found here.


Herbert Levine’s paradox pumps
… how open can a closed shoe be? 
… as openly exciting as these new-for-spring- silhouettes that cunningly conceal here - daringly reveal there! 
Master designer Herbert Levine has created new glamour for your foot by baring your heel to show the prettiest expanse of ankle, by curving an open shank to give the illusion of longer, lovelier legs, by surprise open circles in an otherwise completely closed pump. See the collection in black patent, blue suede, lime green or bone-beige calf. 29.95 to 34.95.

Democrat And Chronicle (Rochester, NY)
February 3, 1959



1959 | Beth & Herbert Levine
The model “Hurdy Gurdy”
Source: Star Tribune (Minneapolis) | February 2, 1959

1959 | Beth & Herbert Levine
The model “High Tie” (top)
Source: Democrat And Chronicle | April 1, 1959

1959 | Beth & Herbert Levine
The model “High Tie”
Source: eBay


1957

Tuesday, July 10, 2018

1958 | THE DAISY PUMP | BETH & HERBERT LEVINE

1958 | The Daisy pump
Beth & Herbert Levine
Source: The Tennessean (Nashville)| April 27, 1958

1958 | The Daisy pump | detail
Beth & Herbert Levine
Source: 1stdibs

1958 | The Daisy pump
Beth & Herbert Levine
Source: 1stdibs


1958

STEVEN ARPAD FOR HERBERT LEVINE

NO SHOE (THE TOPLESS SHOE)


BETH & HERBERT LEVINE
I N D E X

FOOTNOTE

1950 | Daisy sandal (Italian, unknown brand) | detail
Source: L'Illustrazione Italiana (#9 - Marc 5, 1950)

Here Come The Spring News
1950 | Daisy sandal (Italian, unknown brand)
Source: L'Illustrazione Italiana (#9 - Marc 5, 1950)

Friday, July 6, 2018

1960 | POLKA DOTS AND CRYSTAL GLASS | BETH & HERBERT LEVINE

1960 | Polka dots and crystal glass | (L) Unknown model - (R) Rock candy
Beth & Herbert Levine
Source: The Corpus Christi Caller-Times (Corpus Christi, Texas) | March 6, 1960

CHOICE PICKINGS FROM OUR SPRING FASHION CROP 
The freshest, brightest shoes for your spring wardrobe … here with a new and different look … the look of Herbert Levine. Built on the famous Cyrano last with pencil slim heels. Feature red polka dots or navy and white polka dots dress up the silk shoe, and trimmed with a black calf tip and gold railheads, 36.95. 
Lilac lustre on white lustre calf gives untold beauty to a mammoth cluster of rock candy crystal. 38.95. 
Source: The Corpus Christi Caller-Times (Corpus Christi, Texas) | March 6, 1960

The model on the right is called "Rock Candy" and it was prominently featured in many stand-alone advertisements (see below). The one on top remains unnamed (for now) and the undated photograph here below - taken form the dormant Herbert Levine facebook page - doesn't help either.


Tuesday, July 3, 2018

1966 | TONY THE SHOEMAKER GOES ORIENTAL | BY BETH & HERBERT LEVINE

1966 | Beth & Herbert Levine’s Tony The Shoemaker at Berger’s
Source: Buffalo Courier Express December 4, 1966

TONY THE SHOEMAKER goes oriental, in a multicoloured Temple print, on cream-colored silk … sets it on a graceful mid-heel. It’s exclusively Berger’s. $ 28 shown with a matching hand-bag, in a Hermés inspired style. $20 
Source: Berger’s advertisement
Buffalo Courier Express December 4, 1966

It wasn’t “exclusively Berger’s” as the model here below was made for Joseph Magnin, and we might add that we’re not sure how Beth Levine would have liked the “Hermés inspired style”, but that’s the way it was.


1966 | Tony The Shoemaker
Source: Etsy (sold 2014)

1966 | Tony The Shoemaker
By Beth & Herbert Levine


FOOTNOTE: TONY THE SHOEMAKERS 

Plenty of Tony The Shoemakers in and around New York: Levine’s Tony was Tony Acuti, production manager at Herbert Levine, Inc.; before that, at the beginning of the last century, other Tonys made headlines.

The first one was Antonio Milano - known as Tony The Shoemaker - who murdered and set on fire in his bookshop the body of Harry E. Smith, a fourteen year old boy. The boy had rushed inside the shop, as chased by other boys, and went straight toward Tony who reacted either hitting the boy with the hammer or throwing the hammer at him: he didn’t remember, nor he remembered what happened soon after. He was sentenced two years later (1913) and plead for clemency.

Another Tony The Shoemaker was Tony Perretti, one of the leaders of the Navy street gang in Brooklyn. Involved in a crime in 1926, he fled Brooklyn and returned two years later convinced he was in the clear. He wasn’t.



BETH & HERBERT LEVINE
FEATURING TONY THE SHOEMAKER

BETH & HERBERT LEVINE
I N D E X



1966 | Tony The Shoemaker
Insole Detail