Tuesday, April 29, 2014

1956-1976 | NON-CAR SHOE CAR SHOES


1956 | Enotrio Nembro
Vigevano

1956 | Enotrio Nembro
Vigevano
Source: XIX International Vigevano Footwear Fair Catalog

1965 | Clockwise from top left
Roger Vivier, Durer, Charles Jourdan, Rodier
Source: L'Officiel De La Mode

1965 | From left to right
Charles Jourdan, Dior, Celine, Roger Vivier
Source: L'Officiel De La Mode

196X | Borri Victoria Car Shoe
Source: Borri 1892

1969 | Bally
Illustration by Ruth Imhof

1976 | Charles Jourdan
Photograph by Roland Bianchini
Source: L'Officiel de La Mode

1976 | Bally
Source: L'Officiel de La Mode


FOOTNOTE

1952 | Bata
Drawing by Herbert Leupin

1996 | Mademoiselle Twingo
Photograph by Max Vadukul Egoïste Issue 3

Sunday, April 27, 2014

1964 | MARISOL ESCOBAR | SHOE AND HAND

1964 | Marisol Escobar
Shoe And Hand | Litograph
Source: MoMA


1964 | Marisol Escobar
Fur Shoe | Litograph


Collete Roberts:
Actually I think you always will be included in a Pop Art group. But personally I'm not sure that you really correspond to a Pop artist. I mean I think you'll always be included in it by definition. But it seems to me that the new Realism is perhaps a more general term in which you fit much more than the idea of Pop.

Marisol Escobar:
Oh, yes.

SOURCE: ARCHIVES OF AMERICAN ART [1968]



1965 | L to Right
Kevin McCarthy, Andy Warhol, Marisol Escobar
Photograph by Bob Adelman


SHOES & ART
1832 - 2011

Wednesday, April 23, 2014

1936 | NICOLAS GRECO GALLERY


1936 | Nicolas Greco
Green antelope shoe with leather heel. Double tongue turned inside and decorated with 
diagonal stitching. 

1936 | Nicolas Greco
Dark brown bottom, red velvet upper and brown stitchings

1936 | Nicolas Greco
Sandals covering the toes, kid or linen, medium heel

1936 | Nicolas Greco
An evening pump with golden details and a black antelope shoe with
perforated patent leather inserts.

1936 | Nicolas Greco
White deer sandals. Flat heels and perforated leather

Source: Vogue France

NICOLAS GRECO
PARIS (BY WAY OF SICILY)
1 | 2 | 3 | 4 |

Sunday, April 20, 2014

1989/1997 | ENRIQUE CHAGOYA | THESIS/ANTITHESIS

"I think in terms of opposites to balance each other, a dialectical interaction ... that hopefully could trigger some laughter."

Enrique Chagoya
[Source: KQED Arts]


1989 | Enrique Chagoya | Thesis/Antithesis
Fine Arts Museum of San Francisco
Source: Contra Costa Times

1997 | Enrique Chagoya | Thesis/Antithesis
Whitney Museum of American Art, New York
Source: Whitney Museum

Enrique Chagoya | Untitled (Shoes)
Source: SF Gate

SHOES & ART
1832-2011



Friday, April 18, 2014

1944 - 2014 | WAR TIME [BRING YOUR OWN SHOES]

Early 1944 | NEMBO Parachute Regiment
Wearing sandals and rubber shoes

The "Nembo" Parachute Regiment after returning from Sardinia. The Italian Army after the armistice (September 8, 1943) was in disarray and weak.



1914/2014
THE GREAT WAR | SHOES UNDER THE SUN

1915-1918
FOOTWEAR AT THE FOREFRONT [THE ARMY]

Thursday, April 17, 2014

1914/2014 | THE GREAT WAR | SHOES UNDER THE SUN


1921 | Paolo Monelli | Le Scarpe Al Sole/Shoes Under The Sun
Cover detail

Nel gergo degli alpini mettere le scarpe al sole significa morire in combattimento. 

In military lingo, to put the shoes under the sun means to die in battle. 

Paolo Monelli
Le Scarpe Al Sole/Shoes Under The Sun (A WWI Memoir), 1921



1921 | Paolo Monelli | Le Scarpe Al Sole/Shoes Under The Sun
Cover detail
Source: Giorgio Metalli

1915 - 1918
SCARPE IN PRIMA LINEA [L'ESERCITO]
FOOTWEAR AT THE FOREFRONT [THE ARMY]

Sunday, April 13, 2014

1971-1972 | JAY DEFEO | UNTITLED


1971 | Jay DeFeo | Untitled

DeFeo often photographed, drew, and collaged the same simple object for several years. In one series from 1971—73, she concentrated on an old shoe that she had given to her dog, photographing it at close range to capture the full extent of wear and discoloring from teeth marks, dried saliva, and tough use. Through such serial repetition, she depicted the refuse of the artist's studio with obsessive care.

Source: Art Institute Of Chicago


1972 | Jay DeFeo | Untitled

SHOES & ART
1832-2009

Saturday, April 12, 2014

1956 | DAVID EVINS FOR GRACE KELLY

1956 | David Evins for Grace Kelly
Silk needle lace (rose point), silk faille, seed pearls, glass beads, leather
Source: Philadelphia Museum Of Art

David Evins for Grace Kelly
X-ray done in 2005 reveals the good-luck copper penny (right shoe)
Source: Philadelphia Museum Of Art

1956 | David Evins and Grace Kelly | New York
Custom satin shoe box with the Monegasque royal shield
From: Grace Kelly: Icon Of Style To Royal Bride
Source: Well Heeled Lifestyles [1]

1956, April 18 | Prince Rainier III and Grace Kelly (shod in Evins') after the Civil Wedding
From: Grace Kelly: Icon Of Style To Royal Bride
Source: Well Heeled Lifestyles [1]


Footnotes

[1]

Leslie L. Nottingham (now a Client Service representative at Christie's) is the author of "Well Heeled Lifestyles: The Shoes Of David Evins And The Women Who Wore Them, 1947-1991". We will use her thorough research (done with the help of the Evins family) to highlight Evins' work and to correct along the way mistakes and half-truths about him spread all over dozen of books.

[2]

"Grace Kelly: Icon Of Style To Royal Bride" (Yale University Press, 2006) by H.Kristina Haugland (Associate Curator of Costume and Textiles at the Philadelphia Museum Of Art).



2006 | Evins Shoes at the
Wedding 50th anniversary exhibit at the Philadelphia Museum Of Art
Photograph by iirraa

1958-1960
Andy Warhol for
David Evins

Wednesday, April 9, 2014

GALILEO BARLACCHI | FLORENCE


1930s | Shoes by "Premiata Calzoleria Barlacchi Galileo" 
Florence
La Premiata Calzoleria di Galileo Barlacchi, specializzata in calzature eleganti, era attiva già ad inizio '900 a Firenze, in via della Mattonaia al n. 13. Si trasferì poi nella più centrale via di Parione al n.8. Galileo Barlacchi fu effettivamente premiato, con medaglia di bronzo, all'Esposizione Internazionale dell'industria e del lavoro nel 1911 a Torino.

Questo paio di calzature (sopra) in broccato di seta ricamato con motivi floreali è conservato al Fine Arts Museum di San Francisco.

Il modello sottostante appartenne invece a Hortense Acton ed è conservato presso la splendida Villa La Pietra, storica residenza della famiglia Acton, a Firenze, oggi sede di un campus della New York University.  



The Premiata Calzoleria Galileo Barlacchi, maker of elegant shoes, was already active in the beginning of '900 in Florence, Via della Mattonaia,13. Later they moved downtown in Via di Parione, 8. Galileo Barlacchi was awarded with the bronze medal at the International Exhibition of Industry and Labour in 1911 in Turin.

This pair of shoes (above) in silk brocade embroidered with floral motifs is now at the Fine Arts Museum of San Francisco.

The model below was owned by Hortense Acton and is preserved at the beautiful Villa La Pietra in Florence. Villa La Pietra, Acton family's historic residence, is now a campus of the New York University.


1930s | "Premiata Calzoleria Barlacchi Galileo via Parione 9 - Firenze"
"Pair of blue silk and silver leather T-strap shoes with metal rhinestone button." 


Sources:

 - Esposizione Internazionale delle industrie e del lavoro per il 50 anniversario della proclamazione del Regno d'Italia - Elenco generale ufficiale delle premiazioni, Torino 1911 - Torino - Tip. G. Momo, 1912

- Gloria Fossi - Arti fiorentine: Il Novecento - Giunti, 2003

Sunday, April 6, 2014

1964 | ROY LICHTENSTEIN | FOOT AND HAND

1964 | Roy Lichtenstein
Foot And Hand | Color Offset Lithograph
Source: Fine Art Museums of San Francisco (Achenbach Foundation)


ROY LICHTENSTEIN

1961 - 1962 | KEDS

1962 | FLATTEN -- SANDFLEAS!

SHOES&ART
1832 - 2011


NO!
Roy Lichtenstein as seen in LIFE | January 31, 1964
Source: LIFE magazine


Thursday, April 3, 2014

ALEXANDER NICOLETTE'S VALERIO CAVALCA AT THE DUTCH LEATHER & SHOE MUSEUM

ALEXANDER NICOLETTE (azienda industriale). 

"Fra le due guerre mondiali, dopo aver acquistato in Inghilterra marchio, forme e modelli, l'imprenditore Nando Zanlari (Parma 1909 - 1980) produce calzature maschili di stile inglese. Vengono così aggirate, di fatto, le norme che impediscono la commercializzazione di prodotti esteri in Italia. L'attività d'impresa, iniziata dal padre di Nando Zanlari nel 1910, conosce una svolta decisiva nel 1960, quando al marchio Alexander (che contrassegna la consolidata calzatura maschile di gusto inglese) si affianca il marchio Nicolette (che caratterizza la scarpa femminile di gusto francese). 

Lo sdoppiamento delle linee produttive è frutto dell'incontro tra Nando Zanlari e un artigiano di eccezionale valore: Valerio Cavalca (Vigatto, Parma, 1935). Dopo aver cominciato a lavorare a diciassette anni utilizzando una stanza della sua abitazione, Cavalca mostra doti non comuni di creatività. 

Nel 1963, già divenuto socio di Zanlari, ottiene il primo premio al Concorso internazionale di Amsterdam con un pezzo esposto stabilmente nel Museo olandese della calzatura: un paio di scarpe femminili costruite a tomaia intera (cioè senza giunture). 


ALEXANDER NICOLETTE [company]. 

Between the two world wars, the entrepreneur Nando Zanlari (Parma 1909 -1980) produced men's footwear in the English style, after buying the brand, shapes and patterns in the UK. In fact overruling the ban of foreign products in Italy.The activity of the company, started by Nando Zanlari's father in 1910, knows a turning point in 1960, when the brand Alexander (already well-established English style man's footwear) joins the brand Nicolette (French style woman's shoes). 

Doubling of the production lines is the result of the meeting between Nando Zanlari and Valerio Cavalca (Vigatto, Parma, 1935), a craftsman of rare ability. When seventeen Cavalca started to work from his house showing uncommon creativity qualities. 

In 1963, already a partner of Zanlari, he won the first prize at the International Competition in Amsterdam with a piece exhibited permanently in the Dutch Shoe Museum: a pair of woman shoes constructed with a wholeupper (ie without joints).


1967 | Valerio Cavalca
1st price at the I.S.D.C., Amsterdam | Man's shoe with jointless upper
Courtesy: Inge Specht-den Boer | Dutch Leather & Shoe Museum

Valerio Cavalca ha partecipato alla Competizione Internazionale di Design (I.S.D.C.) del 1967 vincendo il primo premio con una scarpa da uomo realizzata utilizzando una tomaia senza giunture. Ha inviato tre scarpe (due qui raffigurate), ma la terza manca dall'archivio.

Valerio Cavalca sent shoes to the International Shoe Design Competition (I.S.D.C.) in 1967 and he won the first prize with the black man's shoe without joints. There should be three shoes all together (two are pictured here) but the third one is missing from the archive. 

Inge Specht-den Boer
Conservator/Curator - PR | Dutch Leather and Shoe Museum


NOTE
Le informazioni di Inge Specht-den Boer correggono le parti in grassetto del primo paragrafo.
Inge Specht-den Boer's info amend the parts in bold above.


1967 | Valerio Cavalca
At the I.S.D.C., Amsterdam
Courtesy: Inge Specht-den Boer | Dutch Leather & Shoe Museum

Nel 1965 nasce la Alexander Nicolette, che nel nome riassume le due linee produttive fondamentali dell'azienda. Nel 1980, alla morte di Zanlari, Cavalca diventa l'unico titolare dell'azienda. Nel 1983 rileva la storica Calzoleria della Steccata nel centro di Parma, legandola al marchio Alexander Nicolette."
Nel 2004 le strutture produttive, operative e i marchi sono diventati di proprietà dell'azienda calzaturiera veronese 3A Antonini.

In 1965 they founded the brand Alexander Nicolette, which sums up in one name the two core product lines of the company. In 1980, when Zanlari died, Cavalca becomes the only owner of the company. In 1983, he buys the historical Calzoleria Steccata in downtown Parma, tying it to the brand Alexander Nicolette."

In 2004, trademarks and production facilities became property of Verona's footwear group 3A Antonini.

Sources
Enciclopedia di Parma: dalle origini ai giorni nostri (Encyclopedia of Parma: from the origin till now - Edited by Marzio Dall'Acqua - Ricci, 1998) | Pambianco News December 10, 2004

Tuesday, April 1, 2014

REMEMBERING GRUAU [RENATO ZAVAGLI] ON THE 10TH ANNIVERSARY OF HIS DEATH [3/3]

1989 | René Gruau
Source: hPrints

1952 | René Gruau | Scandale
Source: hPrints

1952 | René Gruau | Scandale
Source: hPrints

1952 | René Gruau | Scandale
Source: hPrints

1952 | René Gruau | Scandale
Source: hPrints

1952 | René Gruau | Scandale
Source: hPrints

1954 | René Gruau | Piering
Source: 1977 Voltios

1955 | René Gruau | Jacques Fath stockings
Source: hPrints

1966 | René Gruau | Ortalion/Bemberg stockings
Source: Le Dernier Cri

1970 | René Gruau | Ortalion stockings

René Gruau | Ortalion
Source: Calze Di Seta

René Gruau
Source: Fashiony


René Gruau and the Line of Beauty
At Irenebrination

Remembering GRUAU
Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3