1964 | Rotelli
Morazzone, Varese
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1964 | Rotelli
Morazzone, Varese
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1964 | Rotelli
Morazzone, Varese
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MORAZZONE, VARESE
HISTORY OF
1964 | Rotelli
Morazzone, Varese
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1964 | Rotelli
Morazzone, Varese
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1964 | Rotelli
Morazzone, Varese
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1964 | Rotelli
Morazzone, Varese
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1964 | Rotelli
Morazzone, Varese
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Early 1960s | C.l.a.m.s. Bologna
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Early 1960s | C.l.a.m.s. Bologna label
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1958 - 1959 | Cleopatra by Fratelli Manea, Vigevano
Leather sandal
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1958 - 1959 | Cleopatra by Fratelli Manea, Vigevano
Leather sandal
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1958 - 1959 | Cleopatra by Fratelli Manea, Vigevano
Leather sandal
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1958 - 1959 | Cleopatra by Fratelli Manea, Vigevano
Leather sandal
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1958 - 1959 | Cleopatra by Fratelli Manea, Vigevano
Leather sandal
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1958 - 1959 | Cleopatra by Fratelli Manea, Vigevano
Leather sandal
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1958 - 1959 | Cleopatra by Fratelli Manea, Vigevano
Leather sandal
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1958 - 1959 | Cleopatra by Fratelli Manea, Vigevano
Leather sandal
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1954 | Vincenzo Valentino, Naples
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1924 | The logo Elena by Vincenzo Valentino
Source: Archivio Centrale dello Stato
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1952 | The logo V:Valentino by Vincenzo Valentino
Source: Archivio Centrale dello Stato
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The insole label of the shoe photographed at the top of the page
Courtesy of Inge Specht-den Boer (Curator/PR of) | Dutch Leather & Shoe Museum
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"Pierre Yantorny is dead; an Italian bootmaker in Paris, the most expensive bootshop in the world. His lowest price for any pair of shoes was $300, and he would take no order for less than five pairs at a time.
If a woman with pretty feet came, unable to pay the price, he might make her shoes for nothing; he was an Italian, Calabrese, in Paris.
Yantorny went to school for six months in his ninth year, no other education, worked two years in an Italian macaroni factory from 6 in the morning to 6 at night for four cents a day, then learned the shoemaker's trade and really learned it"
Buffalo Courier-Express, December 17, 1936
1914 - 1919 | Pietro Yantorny for Rita de Acosta Lydig
Gift of Capezio Inc., 1953
Source: MET
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1920s | Pietro Yantorny for Mrs. Edward G. Sparrow
Black leather pump, laced and cut out
Source: MET
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1920s | Pietro Yantorny for Mrs. John E. Roosevelt
Black leather pump, laced and cut out
Source: MET
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1920s | Pietro Yantorny for Mrs. John Scholz (Helen Marshall)
Black leather pump, laced and cut out
Source: MET
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1920s | Pietro Yantorny for Mrs. John Scholz (Helen Marshall)
Black leather pump, laced and cut out
Source: MET
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1920s | Pietro Yantorny for Mrs. Helen Crocker Russell
Brocaded Silk
Source: LACMA
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1920s | Pietro Yantorny for Nancy Keene Perkins
Gift of Mrs C.G. Lancaster
Glacé kid leather, lined with kid, polished wood
Source: Victoria & Albert Museum
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1916 | Nancy Perkins wearing spats on her pointed shoes
Source: Wikipedia
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A note for Pietro Yantorny by Elsie de Wolfe
Source: Catalogue of the Exhibition "Pierre Yantorny: le bottier le plus cher du monde" | Romans
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1924 | Elsie de Wolfe for Vogue
Photograph by Edward Steichen
Source: Getty Images
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“For Mrs. Perry Belmont, Yantorny has just made a pair of buttoned boots with beige cloth tops which are rather low than high, the rest of the boot being made of patent leather. These rather low-topped boots argue a longer skirt, and we hear , indeed, that longer skirts are to be worn; but in fact the skirts worn in Paris are apparently shorter than ever.”
Harper’s Bazaar, 1922
ca. 1900 | Mrs. Perry Belmont (née Jessie Robbins)
Photograph: Mora
Source: Museum of the City of New York
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1911 | Giovanni Boldini Rita de Acosta Lydyg's portrait | Detail Oil on canvas - Private collection Source: Wikipedia |
Although she walked very short distances, Mrs. Lydig possessed at least three hundred pairs of shoes, shoes that have never been seen before or since. They were made by Yanturni, the East Indian curator of the Cluny Museum, a strage individual with an extraordinary gift for making incredibly light footgear that was moulded like the most sensitive sculpture.
Cecil Beaton
Boldini painted a number of portraits of Rita and I went with her occasionally to his studio when she was posing for him. When he painted he sometimes wore a bowler hat. He was a highly nervous, energetic and astute little man with a flair for style and chic that no other portrait painter in this century ever surpassed.
Mercedes De Acosta
From: Here Lies The Heart (Andre Deutsch, 1960)
1911 | Giovanni Boldini Portrait of Rita de Acosta Lydyg Oil on canvas - Private collection Source: Wikipedia |
The conditions under which he would supply a few favored customers were somewhat unusual. Yanturni demanded a deposit of one thousand dollars, from which he would subtract the price of each shoe or boot supplied, though delivery often took two or three years. Once he had agreed to work for a customer, he made a plaster model of both feet, on which he would then work and mould his materials until they were as flexible as the finest silk.
Cecil Beaton
Source: Cecil Beaton | The Glass Of Fashion
1954 - Rizzoli Ex Libris, 2014
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Mrs. Lydig’s shoes were fashioned from eleventh - and twelfth-century velvets, with variations in long pointed toes or square-ended toes and correspondingly square heels. Her evening and boudoir slippers utilized brocades or gold- and silver-metal tissue. Some were covered with lace appliqué and leather spats that fitted like a silk sock.
Cecil Beaton
Source: Cecil Beaton | The Glass Of Fashion
1954 - Rizzoli Ex Libris, 2014
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Mrs. Lydig collected violins expressly so that Mr. Yanturni could use their thin, light wood for his shoe trees. With its tree inside, each shoe weighed no more than an ostrich feather. She preserved these shoes in trunks of Russian leather made in St. Petersburg, with heavy locks and a rich cream velvet lining.
Cecil Beaton
All text from: The Glass Of Fashion (1954 - Rizzoli Ex Libris, 2014)
Pietro Yantorny
A trunk containing twelve pair of shoes made for Rita de Acosta Lydig
Gift of Capezio Inc., 1953
Source: MET
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1914 - 1919 | Pietro Yantorny for Rita de Acosta Lydig
Gift of Mercedes de Acosta
Source: MET
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1914 - 1919 | Pietro Yantorny for Rita de Acosta Lydig
Gift of Capezio Inc., 1953
Source: MET
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Pierre Yantorny | Detail
Source: Vogue - October 1, 1920
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"When we know the price he [Yantorny] asks and the small fortune he requires before deigning to take care of the feet of a pretty woman, we cannot imagine him differently than the owner of a castle in the countryside and a small hotel in Avenue du Bois and traveling from time to time at his plant with a sumptuous automobile, to supervise the labor of his workers."
"Conoscendo il prezzo e la piccola fortuna che [Yantorny] richiede prima di degnarsi di prendersi cura dei piedi di una bella donna, non possiamo fare a meno di immaginarcelo proprietario di un castello di campagna e di un piccolo hotel in Avenue du Bois, mentre si reca di tanto in tanto presso il suo stabilimento a bordo di una sontuoso automobile, per monitorare il lavoro dei suoi operai."
Pierre Yantorny | Detail
Source: Vogue - October 1, 1920
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"Things are quite different; when we knock at his door, a short man, shabbily dressed, wearing a grimy and canvas apron, opens it; asked where is his boss, he gravely replies that he has no master but Heaven. Yes, the short man with dreamy eyes, and the worker's hands, is the great Yantorny himself. He will tell you that he lives in the valley of Chevreuse, in a tiny house, he wake up every day at half past three, he walks in the dew for one hour to take the first train of the morning; he works tirelessly, simply eating boiled rice. At six o'clock he returns home wrapped in the old coat that he used throughout the war, immediately after a frugal meal, he goes to bed in order to face the next day the same labor."
"La realtà è ben diversa; quando si bussa alla sua porta, viene ad aprire un piccolo uomo mal vestito, con un grembiule di tela sporco; gli chiediamo dove è il suo capo; lui serio ci risponde che non ha altro padrone, che il Cielo. Sì, questo ometto dagli occhi sognanti e mani da lavoratore è il grande Yantorny in persona. Vi racconterà che vive nella vallata di Chevreuse in una piccola casa, si alza ogni giorno alle tre e mezza, cammina nella rugiada per un'ora per prendere il primo treno del mattino, lavora senza sosta, si nutre semplicemente di riso bollito, alle sei torna a casa avvolto nel vecchio cappotto che ha usato durante tutta la guerra e, subito dopo un pasto frugale, se ne va a letto, per affrontare il giorno dopo le stesse fatiche."
Pierre Yantorny | Detail
Source: Vogue - October 1, 1920
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"You see this model - he says one day taking from his collection - a delightful black kid shoe, striped with red leather: "when you look at it, it seems as narrow as possible; however, it is very wide but my art has managed to hide this width. This model took me a lot of time to perform and I assure you that making it I had to spend more money than I had received. I could not reproduce the husband's gesture, when he placed on my table the check; he seemed to say, "You do get rich anyway ..." Oh, he did not know how much he hurt me this fool."
"Vede questo modello, mi disse un giorno, prendendo nella sua collezione una favolosa scarpetta di capretto nero, a strisce di cuoio rosso "a guardarla sembra strettissima, tuttavia, è molto ampia dentro, ma la mia arte è riuscita a nascondere questa larghezza. Questo modello mi ha portato via un sacco di tempo per realizzarlo e vi assicuro che per farlo ho dovuto spendere più denaro di quello che mi era stato dato. Non vi so dire il gesto del marito, quando ha messo l'assegno sul mio tavolo; sembrava dire: "ne fai di soldi, eh ..." Oh, non sapeva quanto mi feriva quello stupido."
Pierre Yantorny
Source: Vogue - October 1, 1920
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"A foot is tiny, but one needs many thoughts to shod it in a way that combine beauty and comfort in a Lilliputian space"
"Un piede è piccolissimo, ma occorrono grandi ragionamenti per calzarlo in modo da poter combinare bellezza e comfort in uno spazio lillipuziano"
Pierre YantornySource: Vogue - October 1, 1920
"Yantorny, ruthless tyrant, realizes that a shoe is slightly unstitched on the edge; he throws it into the fire while the upset owner raises her arms to the sky."
"Yantorny, tiranno spietato, si accorge che una scarpetta è leggermente scucita sul bordo; la getta nel fuoco mentre la proprietaria alza le braccia al cielo sconvolta."
Pierre Yantorny
Source: Vogue - October 1, 1920
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"Is she Cinderella contemplating the shoes she is going to wear to meet her prince charming? Will she choose those with hummingbird feathers or those made in white kidskin with red stripes?"
"È forse Cenerentola in persona quella che contempla le scarpine che indosserà per presentarsi davanti al principe azzurro? Sceglierà quelle in piume di colibrì o quelle di capretto nero a righe rosse?"
Pierre Yantorny
Source: Vogue - October 1, 1920
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"When you own a pair of shoes by Yantorny it seems that your feet, under the clothes, are like two tiny and darting mice.""Quando si possiede un paio di scarpe di Yantorny sembra che i piedi, sotto gli abiti, siano come due topolini minuscoli e guizzanti"
Pierre Yantorny
Source: Vogue - October 1, 1920
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"When German troops were marching towards Paris in March 1918, Miss Elsie de Wolfe had to run away from the hospital in Compiègne. In the escape, she took her most precious treasure: her shoes made by Yantorny."
"Quando avanzavano le truppe tedesche su Parigi nel marzo 1918, Miss Elsie de Wolfe dovette scappare dall’ospedale di Compiègne dove si trovava. Nella fuga portò con sé il suo tesoro più prezioso: le scarpe fatte da Yantorny."
1914 -1919 | Pietro Yantorny for Rita de Acosta Lydig
Gift of Mercedes de Acosta
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“In Paris, the master artist of the shoemaking craft is Yantorny, who will not do any one the favor of making a pair of shoes unless the first order amounts to the sum of $1,000. This was his price several years ago, however, and it is said that at present he does not accept any first order for less than $2.000. There are rumors that one well-known fashionable couple have paid $5.000 each for the privilege of the first order."
"A Parigi, l'artista maestro del mestiere di calzolaio è Yantorny, che non farà a nessuno il favore di fare un paio di scarpe a meno che il primo ordine non sia di almeno 1.000 dollari. Questo era il suo prezzo diversi anni fa, tuttavia, e si dice che al momento non accetti alcun primo ordine per meno di 2.000 dollari. Ci sono voci che una famosa coppia molto attenta alla moda abbia pagato 5.000 dollari a testa per il privilegio del primo ordine."
1913 - 1914 | Pietro Yantorny for Mrs. Howard O. Sturges
Silk, leather, glass
Source: Metmuseum
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Shoe Should Be a Work of Art
“Yantorny, whose atelier is on the top floor of a house overlooking the Vendome, is a Neapolitan with a keen sense of humor which ashes out, at times, in connection with his "terms." [Actually he was born in Marano Marchesato, a small town in the province of Cosenza, Calabria region]. His explanation, smilingly given, is that, contrary to the general feeling, one thousand dollars is an absurdly low figure; that, in order to save himself from the crowd of people who besiege his ateliers, begging for their thousand dollars to be accepted he must eventually raise the sum considerably. “For,” he explains returning to seriousness. “a shoe should be when it leaves my atelier, a work of art, and should I not be satisfied and the foot of my client not be transformed into the perfection of shape, I have to throw the shoes away and start afresh and this must be repeated until I am satisfied with the result”.
La Scarpa Deve Essere Un'Opera D'Arte
"Yantorny. il cui atelier si trova al piano superiore di una palazzo con vista su Place Vendome, è un napoletano con un acuto senso dell'umorismo che si infiamma, a volte, in merito alle sue "regole" [In realtà nacque a Marano Marchesato, in provincia di Cosenza, Calabria]. La sua spiegazione, fornita con un sorriso, è che, in contrasto con il comune sentire, un migliaio di dollari è una cifra assurdamente bassa; per tutelarsi dalla folla di persone che assediano i suoi atelier, supplicando che le loro migliaia di dollari vengano accettate, alla fine è costretto ad alzare la somma considerevolmente. "Perché", egli spiega tornando serio "una scarpa, quando lascia il mio atelier, deve essere un'opera d 'arte, e se io non sono soddisfatto e se i piedi del mio cliente non sono trasformati nella forma perfetta, io devo gettare via le scarpe e ricominciare da capo e questo processo deve essere ripetuto fino a quando io sono soddisfatto del risultato".
1914 - 1919 | Pietro Yantorny
Gift of Capezio Inc., 1953
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The Sense of Beautiful Must Be Encouraged
While there is only one Yantorny, the lesson to be drawn from his methods, which have given him a worldwide reputation, should he ever borne in mind by the makers of fine shoes, and that is that women are appreciative of the beautiful and duly appreciate art in shoes. Shoes are not bought today for wear, is the expression heard on all sides. They are bought to be admired and to invite admiration. It is safe to say that even a Yantorny shoe placed in the window and ticketed $1.98 would receive little or no attention. But ticketed $2.000 or even $25 it would create wonder, admiration and—most important of alike: desire to possess.
Il Senso Del Bello Deve Essere Incoraggiato
Mentre c'è un solo Yantorny, la lezione da trarre dai suoi metodi che gli hanno dato fama in tutto il mondo, dovrebbe essere tenuta presente dai creatori di scarpe belle e cioè che le donne apprezzano la bellezza e debitamente riconoscono l'arte nelle calzature. Le scarpe non sono comprate oggi per indossarle, è l'espressione che si sente ovunque. Esse sono acquistate per essere ammirate e per invitare all'ammirazione. Si può tranquillamente dire che persino una scarpa Yantorny messa in vetrina a 1,98 dollari riceverebbe poca o nessuna attenzione. Ma a 2000 o anche 25 dollari creerebbe meraviglia, ammirazione e - più importante ancora - desiderio di possesso.