CAPEZIO FOR WEST SIDE STORY

CA. 1949 | Capezio | Theatrical Shoes

Photograph: Lisa Larsen

Source: The Red List

FIRST NIGHTER

COLORFUL GANG DRAMA PROVES DISAPPOINTING 

Much of Leonard Bernstein's music is hauntingly beautiful; some of it, as in the case of 'Gee, Officer Krupke”, is charmingly light, and a lot of it has the wail of the Juke box. 

I suppose that my sharp disappointment in "West Side Story” lies within the basic material itself. For all of the art that has gone into the creation of this new musical play, any dramatization of juvenile delinquency is on the grim side and for most of the evening the Winter Garden’s play failed to hold me in its spell. 

"West Side Story" comes to Broadway with a big out-of-town buildup and with an impressive advance sale. It will probably pack the big playhouse for some time, but I have grave doubts as to its chances for sustained popular appeal. 

Ward Morehouse

Long Island Star Journal | September 27, 1957

1958 | Capezio's Jazz Oxford

Source: The Bridgeport Post | May 28, 1958

Lack of the critic’s long-sightedness aside, we just care to point out that Capezio provided the footwear for this soon-to-be legendary play.

Known as the dancer’s “cobbler” since 1887, this season Capezio brings out the “Jazz” Oxford, a direct descendant of the ballet Oxford the male dancers wear in the Broadway musical hit “West Side Story” 

Schenectady GazetteAugust 23, 1958

1958 | Capezio's Jazz Oxford

Source: Rochester NY Democrat Chronicle | May 27, 1958

A Sensational Hit

WEST SIDE STORY

Source: Long Island Journal | November 6, 1957

FOOTNOTES

[1] According to the Vintage Fashion Guild

“Joe Famolare designs and selections also most notably appeared in the original Broadway Production of West Side Story. The “Dance Oxford” created by Joe especially for West Side Story is still in use on stage to this very day.”

That would have been a nice touch to Famolare’s spectacular career, unfortunately they also stated that Famolare was hired by Capezio in 1960, meaning almost three years after West Side Story’s opening.

[2] Also the female dancers were shod in Capezios.

1949 | CAPEZIO
SQUARE TOED GHILLIES AND THONG SANDALS

1975 | TAPPING THROUGH MAGIC
JOHN 'DRUMBO' FRENCH & SALVATORE CAPEZIO

Capezio's Carrol Lawrence (Maria) ballet slippers

Courtesy of Doug Wilson

Source: Library Of Congress

1949 | CAPEZIO | SQUARE TOED GHILLIES AND THONG SANDALS

1949 | Capezio

Yellow Patent Leather Square Toed Ghillie

Source: Orlando Evening Star - May 23, 1949

Vogue

March 15, 1949 | 50 Cents

Capezio has captured all the poise, artistry and delicacy from the ballet slipper and transferred it to a shoe that offers the layman’s demands from a dancer’s point of view. Graceful thong sandal that adhere to the wearer’s ankle are now making a Miami appearance co-starring with the latest resort achievements of America’s leading dress designers.

Joyce Voelker

Orlando Evening Star - May 23, 1949

1949 | Capezio | detail

Thong Sandals

Source: The Miami News - January 23, 1949

1949 | Capezio | Thong Sandals

Marking: Hermes Grecian Sandal by Capezio

Source: Metropolitan Museum of Art

Gift of Capezio Ballet Makers, 1973

The MET's generic "20th century" can now be amended.

1949 | Capezio

Thong Sandals

Source: The Miami News - January 23, 1949

1975 | TAPPING THROUGH MAGIC
JOHN 'DRUMBO' FRENCH & SALVATORE CAPEZIO

1957 - 1958
CAPEZIO FOR WEST SIDE STORY

{ [ ( U P D A T E S ) ] }

1955 | Capezio

The Rose Bud sling back

1938 | HERMAN B. DELMAN
PUMPS

1940 | ANDRE PERUGIA | THE ARCH-LESS SHOE
OR: PERUGIA V/S LOUIS VUITTON ET AL

1947 | DALLAS | SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
NEIMAN-MARCUS FASHION AWARD

1955 | BRUNIS (VIGEVANO)
WITH PIRELLI'S CORIA SOLES

1969 | DU PONT'S CORFAM AS SEEN BY ANDREA PFISTER AND ROGER VIVIER
PLUS A GUEST APPEARANCE FROM FERRAGAMO

1984 - 1991 | RAYMOND PETTIBON
B&W SHOES

COLETTE & LA FLESSIBILE INDEX
PARABIAGO

1974 - 2008 | WILLIAM EGGLESTON'S
(SHOE) GUIDE

CASH ONLY
JOHNNY CASH & HIS BOOTMAKER (PASQUALE DI FABRIZIO)

SARKIS DER BALIAN
THE MASTER OF THE ARMENIAN SCHOOL OF FOOTWEAR DESIGN

1949 | Capezio

Capezio Dancing Shoes

1953 | Capezio

Small Illusion Heels

1964 | ANDREA PFISTER (1942 - 2018)

1964 | Andrea Pfister

Source: AS magazine

1964 | Andrea Pfister

Source: AS magazine

1964 | Andrea Pfister

Source: AS magazine

1964 | Andrea Pfister

Source: AS magazine

1964 | Andrea Pfister

Source: AS magazine

ANDREA PFISTER
IN MEMORIAM

ANDREA PFISTER
I N D E X

1964 | Andrea Pfister

Source: AS magazine

1924-25 | L'APRES-MIDI CHEZ EDITH CHAUSSEUR

1927 | A model by Edith, Paris

Source: Les Modes

"For the sole purpose of being pleasant to its charming customers, the Maison Edith has just inaugurated new and luxurious fitting rooms and a very important range of  the most fine stockings , which will allow the elegant women to buy on the spot chic stockings matching with their shoes." 

[From an advertising by Edith Chaussures, Vogue France, 1924, November]

A reproduction of the new boutique Edith was published in 1925 by Vogue magazine. Here is the drawing, with the exhibition of shoes and stockings:

1925 | Edith | Paris

Chic women's boutique of choice

Source: Vogue France

1925 | Maison Edith | detail

Source Vogue France

1925 | Maison Edith | detail

Source Vogue France

FROM MESSORE TO EDITH
CHAUSSURES DE HAUT LUXE

1924 | EDITH CHAUSSEUR
AN INNOVATION

1925 | Maison Edith | detail

Source Vogue France

1985 | KEITH HARING | EIGHT SHOES

1985 - Keith Haring | Detail

"Eight Shoes" | Lithograph (Printed 1986)

Source: LiveAuctioneers

“I still really want to design a pair of sneakers. I have all these new painting ideas and sculpture ideas that I can’t wait to start. I made drawings in Switzerland and Monte Carlo. That was great, but not enough. I really want to go back and try to heal myself by painting. I think I could actually do it. ”

Keith Haring - September 1989

From: Keith Haring Journals (Penguin Books, 1996)

1985 - Keith Haring

"Eight Shoes" | Lithograph (Printed 1986)

Source: LiveAuctioneers

1932 - 2013
SHOES & ART

1924 | EDITH CHAUSSEUR | 'AN INNOVATION'

1924 | Edith, Paris

"Pink - beige kid, trimmed with red kid."

From Vogue Magazine (France), 1924, November issue:

"The constant aim of today's elegant woman is to always create harmony: to achieve a happy outfit, it is not enough for her to wear a new and seductive hat, a dress with a skilful cut and a fitting tone. The smallest accessories of her toilet are meticulously studied and chosen: the scarf matches with the hat, the gloves’ shade accompanies that of the tailleur, the bag, pretty knick-knack of carved leather, delicate tapestry, precious enamels, harmonizes with the dress."

1924 | Edith, Paris

"Varnished and very flexible kid, , trimmed with emerald green."

"As for the shoes, barely ten years ago, the choice was limited to black patent and yellow kid. The current inspiration for a set sought after in every detail requires for each dress the matching shoes.

Now the shoemaker is an artist just like the couturier; like him, he cares for the original and elegant line; like him, he constantly creates models that are real pieces of art: openwork leather shoes, intricate arabesques, pearly satins or studded with rhinestones, dazzling lamés, more precious than the vair slipper of Cinderella ."

1924 | Edith | Paris

"Small squares in all shades."

"Thanks to a selection of models of an infinite variety, remarkably chic and carefully executed, the Maison Edith, 4, rue Tronchet (behind the Madeleine) counts among its customers the most elegant women of Paris.
For the upcoming season, this fashionable designer is to launch an elegant beige or flesh color kid shoe, similar to the stockings currently more fashionable. One of Edith's charming innovations is the original combination of black suede and patent leather."

1924 | Edith, Paris

"Beige kid, topped with black kid."

FROM MESSORE TO EDITH
CHAUSSURES DE HAUT LUXE

1924-25 | L'APRES-MIDI
CHEZ EDITH CHAUSSEUR

1924 | Edith, Paris

"Black box, comfortable for the Bois."

FROM MESSORE TO EDITH | CHAUSSURES DE HAUT LUXE

1926 | Edith Chaussure de Haut Luxe

Source: Vogue France

Edith was the commercial brand of the «Maison Messore», a manufacture of luxury shoes founded in 1916 by the bottier of Italian origin Alexandre Messore in Paris (67, Rue Rébeval). 

The company enjoyed a significant success in the early 20s, opening boutiques in France and establishing a distribution network in Europe and North Africa (Tunisie and Algerie). In Italy they operated in partnership with Giovanni Gilardini, one of the oldest Italian footwear companies.

1922 | Edith, Paris

Source: Vogue France

Unfortunately it didn't last: the huge investments to expand production/distribution and the expensive advertising campaigns were a burden too big for the company and Maison Messore went bankrupt in 1923.

Alexandre Messore remained in business with his own name for a few years, while the brand Edith changed both ownership and production site. It was then based in 4, Rue Tronchet, Paris. The new manager was Yves Malembits, who carried on the production of luxury shoes, but also specialized in handbags, belts and other leather products. Edith remained a top brand until World War II, then it slowly faded until Malembits sold the company in 1961. 

The “Societé des Chaussures Edith” ended for good its activities at the end of the Seventies.

1926 | Messore - Chaussures Haut Luxe Pour Dames

Source: Cinémagazine

1924 | EDITH CHAUSSEUR

AN INNOVATION

1924-25 | L'APRES-MIDI

CHEZ EDITH CHAUSSEUR

1922 | Edith models | Paris

Source: Vogue France

2013 | GRAZIANO LOCATELLI

2013 | Untitled | Graziano Locatelli

Mixed media

Source: Graziano Locatelli

2013 | Untitled | Graziano Locatelli

Mixed media

Source: Graziano Locatelli

2013 | Untitled | Graziano Locatelli

Mixed media

Photograph: Ale @ilzukot

Source: Graziano Locatelli

BREAKING THINGS UP
GRAZIANO LOCATELLI

1832 - 2013
SHOES & ART

2012 | 1995 by Graziano LocatelliCm.120x143 | Mixed media
Photograph: By Claudia Antonucci 
Source: Graziano Locatelli

CALZATURE OSCARUCH | TURIN

Oscaruch fu uno storico negozio di Torino, che aveva sede in via Nizza e produceva calzature di alto livello esclusivamente a mano. Attivo già negli anni ’10, subito dopo la fine della prima guerra ebbe un momento di sviluppo con l’apertura di un’altra sede in corso Orbassano e infine, all’inizio degli anni ’20, in via XX Settembre, dove la gamma fu estesa anche a modelli più economici per tutta la famiglia. 

Oscaruch was a footwear shop specialized in high quality hand made shoes located in Turin (via Nizza). Right after the end of WWI they opened a second store in Corso Orbassano and a third one - at the beginning of the 1920s - in Via XX Settembre, where they also offered a wider range of models for the whole family.

1919 | Calzature Oscaruch, Torino | detail

Source: Lidel magazine

Nel 1919 il calzaturificio lanciò sulla stampa quotidiana una curiosa campagna pubblicitaria basata su piccole narrazioni di vena aulica, di cui ne riportiamo alcuni esempi:

In 1919 Oscaruch launched a peculiar advertising campaign based on small narratives in aulic fashion of which we report a few examples. However, we spare the translations as it is quite burdensome/futile to properly render the silliness.

"La superbia è uscita in carrozza ed è tornata a piedi

Cosi dice un antico proverbio. Ma nessuno ha mai saputo degnamente illustrarlo «La superbia era uscita in carrozza per recarsi da Oscaruch in via Nizza angolo corso Valentino, a comperarsi delle scarpette nuove. E le trovò così graziose, cosi belle, cosi comode, cosi eleganti, che rimandò a casa la carrozza e preferi tornare, a piedi, per la gioia di adoperare subito le scarpine e perchè tutti le vedessero e la invidiassero. Come si fa a non essere un pochino superbe quando si calzano le bellissime scarpe di Oscaruch?»."

[La Stampa, 10 marzo 1919]

"O bei piedini così ben calzati...

Ricordate II Guado stecchettiano? Evidentemente il poeta, aveva buon gusto per celebrare in versi gli... stivaletti della donna desiderata. Peccato che non ci abbia detto se la signora si serviva da Oscaruch, la rinomatissima Ditta che ha il suo laboratorio in via Nizza, angolo corso Valentino, dove accorrono le più eleganti signore."

[La Stampa, 5 marzo 1919]

"Quanta strada hanno percorso!

Quanta strada hanno percorso le scarpe dal caliga al coturno, dal sandalo alle calzature odierne, alle Oscaruch, per esempio, che sono l'ultima espressione della modernità più raffinata! Una signora elegante vi dirà: «Dimmi dove ti fai calzare e ti dirò che gusto hai». Lo so vi farete calzare da Oscaruch la signora vi considererà come la persona di buon gusto per eccellenza. Oscaruch e il vero caliganus moderno, artista della forma e signore della più delicata materia. La firma «Oscaruch» è un segno di distinzione inimitabile. Domandatelo alle belle signore che accorrono al laboratorio di Oscaruch, in via Nizza, angolo corso Valentino! Quanti bel piedini felici!"

[La Stampa, 26 febbraio 1919]

1919 | Calzature Oscaruch, Torino

Source: Lidel magazine