Sunday, January 27, 2019

JANUARY 27, 2019 | HOLOCAUST MEMORIAL DAY | GIORNATA DELLA MEMORIA

Towards the end of the Second World War, British aircraft flew over Berlin dropping not bombs, but leaflets. A young woman watched as they floated down as if part of some bizarre ticker-tape celebration. She snatched one from the air as the planes droned on and the anti-aircraft guns thudded around her, and found herself staring at a photograph that was almost as surreal as the scene itself. 

Here were enemy planes that had flown halfway across Europe to fill the air with floating pictures, pictures, she realised, of shoes, mountains of shoes: men’s shoes, women’s children’s shoes. Amidst the broken buildings of Berlin had come this snowstorm of images each with a caption that turned the surreal into the real. All the owners of these shoes, it said, had been killed in the concentration camp at Majdanek.


1942-1944 | Mother's Shoes
Drawing of her mother's shoes by a Jewish teenager in hiding


She had heard rumours of concentration camps, but this was the first evidence of what they might mean. She never doubted the truth of the photographs, never forgot the shock she felt. It was not what was in the pictures but what was not. She felt the pressure of the absence. 

Even to hold the leaflet in her hand, however, was to risk arrest, and the knowledge of that fact in itself seemed to offer confirmation of its truth. It never occurred to her to dismiss it as simple propaganda, The image and the caption had the power to change her sense of the world, to remove what lingering doubt she had about the forces that had shaped her life.

Christopher Bigsby
From: Arthur Miller (Cambridge University Press, 2008)

The woman was photographer Inge Morath, third Arthur Miller’s wife.




TO REMEMBER

PRIMO LEVI [1919-1987]
SURVIVAL IN AUSCHWITZ

1991 | SUSANNA PIERATZKI
BIRTH

2005 | GYULA PAUER & CAN TOGAY
SHOES ON THE DANUBE PROMENADE

THE FOOTPRINTS FOR HOPE
PROJECT

MEMORIAL DAY 2015

MEMORIAL DAY 2016

MEMORIAL DAY 2017

MEMORIAL DAY 2018

Thursday, January 24, 2019

1934 | A GORGEOUS CLOSET

1934 | Eugene Printz, Shoe rack
Source: Vogue France


"Eugene Printz (1889–1948) was a French designer best known for his groundbreaking wooden seating furniture and cabinetry. Printz’s work is especially notable for its conflation of precious woods with modular and progressive design aesthetics that were at the forefront of early 20th-century innovation. 
Born on June 1, 1889 in Paris, France, he developed an interest in furniture from his father, who made a living building antique replicas in a Parisian workshop. The young Printz worked in his father’s studio during his adolescence before gaining widespread acclaim in 1925 at the International Exhibition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts with his own original pieces. 
His Art Deco designs found favor with the European social elite, with notable accomplishments including the furnishing of haute-couture designer Jeanne Lanvin's office and the castle of Grosbois, and today his work can be found in Madonna's New York apartment. Printz died on March 26, 1948 in Paris, France."
[Source: ArtNet]


In 1934 Vogue France published an article about the conception of a modern and rational ensemble of wardrobes in chestnut wood by Eugene Printz ("Une superbe penderie"). It was studied for a beautiful property near Paris.
The room was completed by a chandelier with two levels and a small table, also with two levels and an oval shape. 


1934 | Eugene Printz, Shoe rack
Source: Vogue France

The most interesting part was the shoe rack, containing 72 pairs of shoes, a component still today worthy of the envy of many women.


1934| Eugene Printz, wardrobe overview
Source: Vogue France


Wednesday, January 16, 2019

1926 | A PARISIAN MARRIAGE


1926 | Illustration From Julienne advertising
Source: Les Modes

This holy matrimony can't compare against the marriage of the couple of princes Anna of France and Amadeus of Savoy celebrated two years later, however the two ceremonies had in common the creators of clothes and shoes. 

A certain crowd of curious people attended Roger Villeminot and Arlette Lemoine at the church of Saint-Charles de Monceau in Paris, May 4, 1926 . The grandfather of the bride was Gaston Worth, son of the founder of the renowned fashion house and father, as well as of the mother of the bride (Renée Marie Jeanne Lemoine), of Jean Charles and Jacques Worth, head designer and manager of the family business. These kinships obviously raised high expectations on the level of elegance in the ceremony. 


1926 | Marriage of Arlette Lemoine and Roger Villeminot
The group of bridesmaids
Dresses by Worth; Shoes by Julienne

Detail of the shoes by Julienne

"The bride was exquisite in her dress draped in white satin, adorned with a very long train on which stretched the veil of tulle framed by needle stitch. The hairstyle raised murmurs of enthusiasm on her way (…). The three little girls who were walking behind her were dressed, according to a famous Reynolds portrait, in long white muslin dresses, with old pink satin belts and velvet berets of the same tone. 
The eight bridesmaids were identically dressed in silver Salambo, pleated skirts, little sweaters with shawl collar, « régata » tie, big berets of velvet in rose color and bottes of roses in their arms."
"It was noticed that they wore velvet-rose shoes with silver straps, matching exactly with their dress, and the name of Julienne was whispered, who had also made the shoes for Madame Lemoine and Mme. Villeminot, with fabric similar to their toilets"


INTRODUCING
MADAME JULIENNE

MADAME JULIENNE
THE FEMME BOTTIER



The bride's mother Madame Jacques Lemoine, née Worth
Dress by Worth, shoes by Julienne

Source: Les Modes magazine, July 1926

Friday, January 11, 2019

THIERRY RABOTIN/PARABIAGO COLLEZIONI

The nice folks at THIERRY RABOTIN let us peek into their world, and we liked what we saw.


2007 | Thierry Rabotin - cover
Published by Parabiago Collezioni


Thierry Rabotin (1950 - 2017) was a fashion designer who decided to work exclusively in the footwear field starting from 1978. Among others, he designed for Robert Clergerie.

He made frequent trips to Italy, and back in 1982 he met Giovanna Ceolini at a shoe factory in Parabiago: the two developed a solid friendship that led to start their own brand in 1987. Later they were joined by Austrian Karlheinz Schlecht, then a footwear buyer director.



L to r | Thierry Rabotin, Karl Schlecht, Giovanna Ceolini
Photograph: Enrico Suà Ummarino
Source: Thierry Rabotin


They all "agreed upon the idea that the most important thing in a shoe must be its comfort and that any innovation, any technical support, any fashion trend must never overlook this axiom." (*)

In 1999 they bought the former Ugo Rossetti shoe factory and founded Parabiago Collezioni under which the brand Thierry Rabotin is operated. Since then, Thierry Rabotin stands for fashion conscious AND comfortable luxury shoes.



Thierry Rabotin
Photograph: Marco Lanza
Source: Thierry Rabotin


Parabiago Collezioni is a family business, a medium size enterprise (75-80 employees) that makes everything in-house, save for a few types of soles and heels. They work with suppliers from the Parabiago district and they don't stray from the formula "100% made in Italy" which means authentic made in Italy, not European-law-made-in-Italy (ie FAKE).

We've been escorted by Karl Schlecht to visit the factory: a clean and modern environment from the offices right down to the packing department. Karl didn't spare information about construction methods, care for details, choice of materials and Parabiago district gossip (just kidding about the last one).



Workers at Parabiago Collezioni | Parabiago, Milan
Photograph: Claudio Mazzoni
Source: Thierry Rabotin

Workers at Parabiago Collezioni | Parabiago, Milan
Photograph: Claudio Mazzoni
Source: Thierry Rabotin


Parabiago Collezioni recently joined effort with other shoe factories and Legnano's Isis Bernocchi School to create a course for footwear technicians. Parabiago Collezioni then hired youngsters who attended the training course and Karl seemed particularly proud about it: 

"They made the footwear program works, at last! We gave our contribution hosting students for on-site training. We don't need no more designers, but very high-skilled shoemakers. "



THIERRY RABOTIN


After the blow of Thierry Rabotin passing, Massimo Balbini - Thierry's assistant - took the role of creative director and recently both Thomas and Andreas Schlecht (Karl and Giovanna's sons) joined the ranks of the company assisting their parents at their best (we know, we saw it).



THIERRY RABOTIN
OFFICIAL WEBSITE

THIERRY RABOTIN
OFFICIAL US WEBSITE

THIERRY RABOTIN
ON INSTAGRAM


FOOTNOTE

Thanks to shoe designer Nancy Osborne who suggested first, then set up the meeting. Nancy started working with Parabiago Collezioni for a sophisticated couture collection.

Huge thanks to Karl Schlecht for his kindness and hospitality: we discovered he is always this kind (Don't miss THIS). 

All the best to everybody at Thierry Rabotin/Parabiago Collezioni, they deserve it.

(*) Text from the book "Thierry Rabotin", published by Parabiago Collezioni, 2007. Time to do another one to celebrate the first twenty years.



Thierry Rabotin
Photograph: Marco Lanza
Source: Thierry Rabotin

Thierry Rabotin/Parabiago Collezioni
Parabiago, Milan