Friday, July 26, 2019

1960 | DAVID EVINS | LOW CUT SHELL PUMP

1960 | David Evins
Low cut shell pump | Multi-colored fabric, multi-coloured rhinestones


Fall's new directions are delicately pointed, gracefully slimmed down and proportioned. The arrow toe, the elongated slender toe, the low cut shell. 
Orlando Evening Star - October 5, 1960

The above description fits the Evins shoe as well as others featured in the advertisement here below, yet the Evins silhouette is unmistakable.

It is part of the great collection of The Goldstein Museum of Design. The museum offers no date so we kindly provide one that is reliable.




1960 | David Evins
Low cut shell pump
Source: Orlando Evening Star - October 5, 1960


1960 | David Evins
Low cut shell pump | Multi-colored fabric, multi-coloured rhinestones

1960 | David Evins
Low cut shell pump | Multi-colored fabric, multi-coloured rhinestones



DAVID EVINS
I N D E X



1960 | David Evins
Low cut shell pump | Multi-colored fabric, multi-coloured rhinestones

Tuesday, July 23, 2019

1968 | DAVID EVINS | THE SANDAL 'SERPENTINE'

1969 | David Evins
The "Serpentine" sandal
Source: The Herald Statesman (Yonkers, NY) - March 10, 1969


"SERPENTINE" - The rose moire high-rising sandal with scroll beading in crystal and rhinestones is from the "ultra pants-oriented" collection by David Evins. At Mr. Jay, 237 Millburn Avenue - Millburn, N.J. 
Source: The Item (of Millburn And Short Hills) - May 15, 1969


The "Serpentine" sandal was actually showcased at the end of 1968 and here below you can see Mr. Evins proudly holding the model.



Precisely
1968 | David Evins holding the "Serpentine"
Source: News Journal (Mansfield, Ohio) - October 17, 1968

1969 | David Evins
The "Serpentine" sandal
Source: Detroit Free Press - January 16, 1969



FOOTNOTE

Starting from 1989 it's been said that the "Serpentine" sandal (never referred as such) was made in 1962 for singer/actress/activist Lena Horne. First it was a 1989 calamitous press photo and picked up the same year by the book "Shoes: Fashion And Fantasy" by Colin McDowell. Others followed suit, like the ubiquitous "Shoes" by Linda O'Keeffe, and of course countless web sites. 

McDowell text, next to the picture here below, highlighted that footwear - especially made for stars and celebrities - must match their strong personalities and because of that, celebrities can be shod in footwear that the ordinary woman won't dare to touch.

So, although we are a bit late to tell you Mr. McDowell, this "Lena Horne sandal" wasn't made for Lena Horne (hats off) but for the ordinary woman like me and that I'm very willing to try it if only I could find a pair. Kind regards.



DAVID EVINS
I N D E X


1968 | The "Serpentine" sandal
As seen in "Shoes" by Colin McDowell (1989)
No 1962, no Lena Horne: it must be clear now.

Friday, July 19, 2019

1954 | BETH & HERBERT LEVINE | THE CIRCLES

1954 | Beth & Herbert Levine
"The Circles", stay-on mule 


HERBERT LEVINE, famous for the stay-on magnet insole. "The Circles" in black or navy suede, 27,95 Gold reptile 29,95.

Source: Detroit Free Press
September 12, 1954


The MAGNET insole was Levine's own take of Maxwell Sachs' spring-o-lator. The Levines were the first to experiment Maxwell's invention (as seen in LIFE magazine May 24, 1954) but were not granted exclusive rights for its use. 

The model "The Circles" (above) is kept at the Philadelphia Museum of Art and its record date (c.1950) can now be amended.



1954 | Beth & Herbert Levine
"The Circles", stay-on mule (detail)
Source: Detroit Free Press - September 12, 1954

1954 | Beth & Herbert Levine
"The Circles", stay-on mule 

1954 | Beth & Herbert Levine
"The Circles" with other heavy hitters of the footwear industry
Source: Detroit Free Press - September 12, 1954



BETH & HERBERT LEVINE
FINE SHOES




1954 | Beth & Herbert Levine
The Stay-On Shoe
Photographs: Gjon Mili
Source: LIFE magazine - May 24, 1954

Tuesday, July 16, 2019

1965 | BETH & HERBERT LEVINE | BUCKLES, BUCKLES AND MORE BUCKLES


1966 | Beth & Herbert Levine
Buckles In Vogue
Source: The Tennessean (Nashville) September 15, 1966


1965 | Beth & Herbert Levine
Unnamed buckled pump (detail)
Source: eBay

1965 | Beth & Herbert Levine
Unnamed buckled pump
Source: eBay

1965 | Beth & Herbert Levine
Unnamed buckled pump
Source: Vintage Divine


The Houland-Swanson ad here below (August 1965) shows on top the model TRACERY SQUARE, our unnamed buckled pump, another pump with brass horseshoe trim ("Lucky Me silhouette) and finally another pump that remains at large. For now.



1965 | Beth & Herbert Levine
Buckles & Bows
Source: The Lincoln Star (Lincoln, Nebraska) - August 8, 1965


1965 | Beth & Herbert Levine
Pump with horseshoe brass trim
Source: eBay

1965 | Beth & Herbert Levine
Pump with horseshoe brass trim (Detail)
Source: eBay


BETH & HERBERT LEVINE
FINE SHOES
I N D E X



1965 | Beth & Herbert Levine
Pump with horseshoe brass trim (LUCKY ME silhouette)
Source: The Times (Shreveport, Louisiana) - August 15, 1965

Friday, July 12, 2019

1966 | DAVID EVINS | RED & GREEN SATIN SLIPPERS (NOT MADE FOR AVA GARDNER)

1966 | David Evins
Buckled satin slippers (detail)
Source: San Francisco Examiner - August 24, 1966



"Never were fashion and footwear so dependant on each other. Take the new party pants and at-home things. They're either extravagantly elaborate or extravagantly amusing"

He (Lee Evins) displayed the perfect shoe answer for either category: a pair of backless pumps with enormous round jewelled buckles one shoe red, the other go-ahead green.

David Evins' brother Lee interviewed by Fashion Editor Mary Stanyan
San Francisco Examiner - August 24, 1966



1966 | David Evins
Red & green buckled satin slippers
Source: "Shoes" (Workman Publishing, 1996)

1966 | David Evins
Satin slipper



SO, WHAT ABOUT AVA GARDNER?

Both Linda O'Keffe's book "Shoes" and The Museum At FIT states that this slipper was made for the famed actress although with different dates: 1955 the former and 1960 the latter.

Most probably they were both mistaken by a 1989 press photo that collected four shoes supposedly made for as many celebrities: Liz Taylor, Lena Horne, Ava Gardner and Judy Garland (clockwise from top of the below photo).



1989 Press photo | David Evins shoes
Photograph: Buster Dean
Source: Historic Images


And while all of them were certified Evins customers, for at least three shoes out of four we can prove they were part of an ordinary Evins collection. Lee Evins' statement on top is proof of that; also, take the photograph here below: the lady assisted by Lee Evins doesn't look like Ava Gardner, does she?
Case closed.



1966 | Lee Evins at I. Magnin shoe salon
Right below corner: buckled satin slippers
Source: San Francisco Examiner - August 24, 1966


DAVID EVINS



1996 | David Evins
No Ava Gardner, no 1955: is "Stop & Go" at least correct?
Source: "Shoes" (Workman Publishing, 1996)

Tuesday, July 9, 2019

1965 | DAVID EVINS | FROM THE BOTTOMS UP SERIES

1965 | David Evins
A model from the BOTTONS UP collection


David Evins's toast to the new season. He starts literally at the bottom of a new Miss Evins walking shoe of glove soft crushed calf by molding a sole of sueded leather as soft and flexible as a moccasin in strong color contrast. 
Source: Arizona Republic - February 15, 1965

The only known model from this series is kept at the Goldstein Museum of Design; the generic museum's date (1960-69) can now be amended.




1965 | David Evins at Woolf Brothers
Source: The Kansas City Times - August 18, 1965


1965 | David Evins
A model from the BOTTONS UP collection

1965 | David Evins
A model from the BOTTONS UP collection



DAVID EVINS
I N D E X



1965 | David Evins
A model from the BOTTONS UP collection

Friday, July 5, 2019

1956 | DELMAN: THE CHANDELIER HEEL

1956 | Delman
The Chandelier Heel


CHANDELIER - Born to get many a backward glance ... a glittering "Chandelier Heel" on a black satin evening pump by Delman. Crystals dangle from a fine steel wire spiralling around a 1/4-inch steel column strategically placed under the heel to perfectly balance foot and carry body weight. Retail price is about $150. It can be made to order in fabric or leather. 
Lansing State Journal - October 21, 1956

A rare Delman Chandelier Heel is kept at the Philadelphia Museum of Art and the museum's date (c. 1950s) can now be amended.



1956 | Delman
The Chandelier Heel




HEELSTORY




1956 | Delman
Source: The Atlanta Constitution - October 15, 1956


Tuesday, July 2, 2019

1931 - 1949 | MELLY BY POMPEO RAVIZZA | PARABIAGO

1931 | MELLY by Pompeo Ravizza
Hand-made shoes | Parabiago [Milan]


The first trademark of the firm “POMPEO RAVIZZA” and the brand name Melly, was made on July,9, 1929 at the Regional Council of the Economy of Milan. The company was based in Parabiago, in Piazza Vittorio Emanuele 4 (now Piazza Maggiolini) and was specialized in the production of luxury and handmade women's footwear.

The shoe factory was among the sponsors of the magazine born in the Parabiago area "Il Modello della Calzatura" ("The Shoe Model"), where we found the first advertisement, published in 1931. In the Industrial Yearbook of Milan Province (1939) it was stated that it produced handmade welts and that the models were exported to England and Switzerland.




La prima registrazione della DITTA POMPEO RAVIZZA e del nome Melly, fu fatta il 9 luglio 1929 presso il Consiglio Regionale dell'Economia di Milano. La ditta aveva sede a Parabiago, in Piazza Vittorio Emanuele 4 (l’attuale Piazza Maggiolini) ed era dedicata alla produzione a mano di calzature di lusso da donna. 

Il calzaturificio fu tra gli sponsor della rivista nata nell'area di Parabiago "Il modello della Calzatura", nella quale abbiamo trovato la prima pubblicitĂ , pubblicata nel 1931. Nell’Annuario industriale della Provincia di Milano del 1939 si specificava che era specializzata nella lavorazione del guardolo a mano e che i modelli venivano esportati in Inghilterra e Svizzera. 



1938 | MELLY by Pompeo Ravizza
Hand-made shoes | Parabiago [Milan]
Source: Uric magazine


Surviving the Second World War, in December 1946 the company had to register again its trademark at the Rome Chamber of Commerce. Then, in the 1960s the ownership of the company went from Pompeo to Pierina Ravizza. There is no further news of this shoe factory.


Sopravvissuta alla seconda guerra mondiale, nel dicembre 1946 l’azienda dovette nuovamente registrarsi presso la CAMERA DI COMMERCIO DI ROMA. Infine, negli anni ’60 la titolaritĂ  dell’impresa passò da Pompeo a Pierina Ravizza. Non si hanno altre notizie successive di questo calzaturificio.


1949 | MELLY by Pompeo Ravizza
Hand-made shoes | Parabiago [Milan]
Source: Ars Sutoria magazine