Thursday, June 30, 2011

1971 - 1972 | ALFIERE'S HAIR COLLECTION BY SALVATORE DEODATO

1971 | Alfiere | The HAIR Collection
Designed by Salvatore Deodato
NEW TRIP sole by MARAZZINI

1972 | Alfiere's co-owner Carlo Zaffaroni
Showing a model from the Hair Collection

Foto Shoe magazine back cover | December 1970
Salvatore Deodato rides a classic Ducati Scrambler

1972 | Alfiere | The HAIR Collection
Designed by Salvatore Deodato
NEW TRIP sole by MARAZZINI

__________________________

CALZATURIFICIO ALFIERE
Cerro Maggiore, Milan
I N D E X
__________________________


1972 | Alfiere | The HAIR Collection
Designed by Salvatore Deodato
NEW TRIP sole by MARAZZINI

Wednesday, June 29, 2011

OXFORD WHITE BUCKS | AN AMERICAN CLASSIC | FEAT. LEROI JONES & THE KID IN WHITE BUCK SHOES


OXFORD/DERBY | WHITE BUCKS
Source: 1957 Time Capsule


I saw white bucks being worn. And I’d read (again, Esquire?) that that’s what college kids were wearing. And also that they wore them dirty. Dirty? That was weird. But I bought a pair. And a couple of corny people remarked on the white shoes how dumb they were. (They bought them a year or so later and wore them until they really were dumb!). 

One Negro, B.P., a yellow stuck-up nee-grow from way back actually took the lead in kicking dirt on the shoes. He thought it would make me mad. What made me mad was the idea that this turkey would kick dirt on my shoes. But the result was what I really desired. At least I knew that was supposed to be hip, so I didn’t really mind. In fact I treated it like they were just doing work for me, saving me the work, of having to dirty them myself. 

I even ran around the track with them after school at track practice to show the stupid buggers that I wanted them dirty. And what was so satisfying was that these very dudes was the kind of stiff five-and-ten-cent Ivy Leaguer types who a few years later would have to have them a pair of such shoes.

AMIRI BARAKA
From THE AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF LEROI JONES (Lawrence Hill Books, 1984)


1957 | Pat Boone
Pat's Big Hits (London Records)

1957 | Pat Boone
PAT 7" EP (London/DOT)

1959 | Pat Boone signs his shoes for charity
Photo by Ralph Morse
Source: LIFE

PARENTAL ADVISORY
Pat Boone?? Won't happen again and Henry Rollins said it better anyway:

Humor without malice is like a Pat Boone record on eleven.

[from: Smile, You're Travelling - 2.13.61, 2000]


1959 | Pat Boone's shoes | 
Photo by Ralph Morse | Source: LIFE |

Tuesday, June 28, 2011

1947 | DALLAS | SALVATORE FERRAGAMO | NEIMAN-MARCUS FASHION AWARD

1947 | Fresh Off The Boat
Christian Dior & Salvatore Ferragamo
Source: The Courier Journal (September 2, 1947)

DOWN WITH THE HEMLINE 
Off the Queen Elisabeth a week ago came Christian Dior and Salvatore Ferragamo, the first a Paris dress designer, the second an Italian shoe creator. Dior takes credit for nailing down this season's hemline; Ferragamo was first with the spike-wedge to women's shoes. Both are here to receive the Neiman-Marcus award in Dallas, Tex. Their third confrere, Norman Hartnell, of London, couldn't get away - princess wedding business.  
Dior says come hell or high water, French women are going to wear longer skirts, as long as 12,5 inches from the floor —which is very long. He thinks American women will wear them, too, even If it means tossing out last season's togs. Ferragamo predicts that a wealth of new shoe ideas will emerge from the advent of the new silhouette. Women will not have to discard their shoe wardrobe as a result of the fashion change, he says comfortingly. The height of the heel is unimportant. The line of the shoe itself and its relation to the height of the body are what will make footwear news. 
Source: The Evening Leader - Corning NY September 8, 1947


1947 | Dallas | Neiman-Marcus Award | At the ceremony
L to R: Major Mitchenson, Ferragamo, Irene (Of Hollywood) Lentz, Dior

I did not arrive in Dallas alone. I had a French mentor with me, André Janet, who had lived many years in America. His task was to smooth both my journey and my stay in Dallas. First of all he told me that the celebrated Hollywood dress designer, Irene (Lentz), and the famous Italian shoemaker, Salvatore Ferragamo, would be receiving Oscars at the same time as me. 
Christian Dior
[Dior By Dior - 1957]


1947 | Dallas | Neiman-Marcus Award | After the ceremony
L to R: Major Mitchenson, Ferragamo, Irene Lentz, Dior
Source: Il Calzolaio Dei Sogni (Shoemaker Of Dreams) - Italian Edition: Sansoni, 1971

… shortly after Alfonso Caldini, a worker with me since 1929, returned from a fishing trip on the Arno. He caught a big fish using a new type of nylon thread. "The fish do not see it" he explained. This was the stuff I needed to make it happen an inspiration. I took a long transparent nylon thread, twisted it and wrapped it around a "carved" heel. The result was the "invisible" shoe, a model that helped me to win the Neiman-Marcus award. It was never a best seller because the sandal left the foot so naked that few women were willing to accept such a challenge to the beauty of their feet. 
Salvatore Ferragamo
Source: Il Calzolaio Dei Sogni (Shoemaker Of Dreams) - Italian Edition: Sansoni, 1971


1947 | Salvatore Ferragamo
The Invisible Sandal | Neiman-Marcus Winner
Source: 1935-1945 Lusso & Autarchia [International Museum Of Vigevano]

The awarded invisible sandal, upper made by a single nylon thread and black kid. F-shaped wooden heel covered with black kid.


1947 | Salvatore Ferragamo
The Invisible Sandal patent

1947 | Salvatore Ferragamo
The Carved Heel patent

1947 | Salvatore Ferragamo at Saks Fifth Avenue

The Invisible Sandal at The Footwear Museum
Sant'Elpidio A Mare 
Photo by Matteo Zaffaroni

Footnote

Even the Italian Footwear Oscars - created by the International Footwear Academy of Turin, were linked to Salvatore Ferragamo: the first edition (1961) was dedicated to the famous shoemaker who passed away the year before.



SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
I N D E X

1967 | DALLAS | NEIMAN MARCUS AWARD
FIAMMA FERRAGAMO

THE ITALIAN
FOOTWEAR OSCARS



1947 | The Pefect Shoe According To Salvatore Ferragamo
Source: The Sheboygan Press (September 3, 1947)

Monday, June 27, 2011

... AND THE WINNERS ARE ... | IT'S TURIN NOT HOLLYWOOD | THE HISTORY BEHIND THE FOOTWEAR OSCAR | PART 2

... E I VINCITORI SONO... | TORINO, NON HOLLYWOOD | LA STORIA DEGLI OSCAR DELLA CALZATURA | PARTE SECONDA
IRMA VIVALDI

The International Shoe Academy
Turin


L’Accademia Artigiana della Calzatura, poi trasformatasi in Accademia Internazionale, nacque a Torino nel 1953 ad opera di un gruppo di artigiani torinesi, con l’obiettivo di promuovere la produzione calzaturiera e la formazione di tecnici specializzati in calzature di alto livello. 

The Handicraft Shoe Academy, later morphed into the International Shoe Academy, was created in Turin back in 1953. It was constituted by a group of artisans, with the aim of promoting the footwear production and training for technicians specialized in high quality shoes.


1969 | Agostino Puccio shows his signed shoes

Fra i soci fondatori e poi presidente per oltre venticinque anni, oltre che consigliere dell'Ente Italiano Moda, fu il commendator Agostino Puccio (1906-1998), artigiano bottier e commerciante, originario di Catanzaro. All’epoca della fondazione aveva già una trentennale esperienza alle spalle maturata in Italia e Francia nella produzione e commercializzazione di calzature di lusso. Lo affiancava, in qualità di segretario generale, Carlo Sacchetti, fratello di Aldo Sacchetti, il famoso artigiano calzaturiero. Anche Carlo era un artigiano quotato, ma specializzato nella produzione di calzature sportive.

Among the founding members - and president for over twenty-five years - there was the Commendatore Agostino Puccio (1906-1998), bottier and shoe merchant, born in Catanzaro. At the time of the foundation he had already three decades of experience in production and sale of luxury shoes in Italy and France. He was helped by a general secretary, Carlo Sacchetti, brother of Aldo Sacchetti, the famous shoe artisan. Carlo was a craftsman quoted too, but specializes in the production of sports shoes.


A pair of pumps by Agostino Puccio

Was Puccio the first to sign the shoes on the outside?

1969 | Puccio
Turin


THE HISTORY BEHIND THE 
ITALIAN FOOTWEAR OSCAR AWARD
Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3




Sunday, June 26, 2011

THE HISTORIALIST AT THE MUSEUM | JUST DESTROY IT [THE SHOE, NOT THE MUSEUM] | THE ART OF BRIAN JUNGEN : PROTOTYPES FOR NEW UNDERSTANDING |


2005 | PROTOTYPE FOR NEW UNDERSTANDING #23
[detail] Catriona Jeffries Gallery, Vancouver

2005 | PROTOTYPE FOR NEW UNDERSTANDING #23
Catriona Jeffries Gallery, Vancouver

1999 | PROTOTYPE FOR NEW UNDERSTANDING #5
Catriona Jeffries Gallery, Vancouver

2004 | Prototype for New Understanding #16
Collection of Joel Wachs, New York

1999 | Prototype for New Understanding #8
Collection of Colin Griffiths, Vancouver


CREDITS
All the pics by TREVOR MILLS [Vancouver Art Gallery] except Prototype # 5 courtesy Catriona Jeffries Gallery, Vancouver
BRIAN JUNGEN WORKS AT THE CATRIONA JEFFRIES GALLERY
THE JUNGEN GALLERY AT THE TYEE

SHOES 'N' ART
1876 - 2009

Friday, June 24, 2011

1971 | TEENAGE LOBOTOMY by BARRY LATEGAN | feat. TWIGGY

1971 | Red shoes by MIGNANI
Twiggy wears black sandals by CELESTINO'S

TEENAGE LOBOTOMY MANIFESTO by BARRY LATEGAN,  six solid years before THE RAMONES [ROCKET TO RUSSIA - 1977 - SIRE].

DDT keeps me happy
Now I guess I'll have to tell 'em
That I got no cerebellum
Gonna get my Ph.D.

Thursday, June 23, 2011

THEHISTORIALIST CITY GUIDE | VIGEVANO | 1969 | PART TWO

VIGEVANO
PIAZZA DUCALE & THE DUOMO

1969 | Cogeca
Vigevano

1969 | Mammina Bella
Gambolò (Pavia)

1969 | Dea
Vigevano

1969 | Sultana
Vigevano


La galleria che conduce da Piazza Ducale al Castello Sforzesco (e al Museo internazionale della Calzatura).

The gallery goes from Piazza Ducale to the Castello Sforzesco (home of the International Footwear Museum).


1969 | Gatti [Designer]
Vigevano

1969 | Mammina Bella
Gambolò (Pavia)

1969 | Bonardi
Vigevano


TheHistorialist City Guides

Vigevano
1969

Vigevano
Monument To The Italian Shoemaker

Florence
w/Ferragamo

Florence
1967

Baalbek, Lebanon
w/F.lli Rossetti & Celestino's

Parma 1969

Bruxelles

Wednesday, June 22, 2011

1967 - 1969 | OTELLO BERTOCCO PHOTO GALLERY (WITH AN OSCAR)


1967 | Otello Bertocco


1967 | Design by Otello Bertocco

1969
La collezione premiata dall'Accademia Internazionale della Calzatura di Torino con l'Oscar della fantasia creativa, nella sezione modelleria calzaturiera femminile.

The collection awarded by the International Footwear Academy of Turin for creative imagination in the woman's footwear design.


1969 | Otello Bertocco

1969 | Otello Bertocco

1969 | Otello Bertocco

1969 | Otello Bertocco

1969 | Otello Bertocco

1969 | Otello Bertocco |


1969 | Otello Bertocco
Oscar winner for his creative imagination


OTELLO BERTOCCO

Tuesday, June 21, 2011

THEHISTORIALIST CITY GUIDE | VIGEVANO | 1969 | PART ONE |

VIGEVANO
PIAZZA DUCALE & BRAMANTE'S TOWER


1969 | Creazioni Lodigiani
Vigevano

1969 | Giardini
Vigevano

1969 | Fratelli Zorzi
Vigevano

1969 | Dino Borsani
[Designer]

1969 | Giardini
Vigevano

1969 | Dino Borsani
[Designer]


THEHISTORIALIST CITY GUIDES

Vigevano 1969