Thursday, June 30, 2016

1962 | MOLASCHI | SAN LORENZO DI PARABIAGO, MILAN

1962 | Molaschi
San Lorenzo di Parabiago, Milan

1962 | Molaschi
San Lorenzo di Parabiago, Milan

1962 | Molaschi
San Lorenzo di Parabiago, Milan

1962 | Molaschi
San Lorenzo di Parabiago, Milan

MOLASCHI
San Lorenzo di Parabiago



1962 | Molaschi
San Lorenzo di Parabiago, Milan

Tuesday, June 28, 2016

1935 | THE ORIGINAL BADMINTON SHOE

For All Court Games
1947 | Jack Purcell's Badminton Shoe by B.F. Goodrich

Jack Purcell, 84, said in an interview from his Toronto home that the sturdy sneaker was revolutionary at a time when "blisters and sore heels and turned ankles were the order of the day."
"It's almost identical to what it was back in the '30s," said Purcell, a semi-retired stockbroker who first won the world badminton championship in 1932. "Basically it was a soundly engineered product right from the start. It's still a very comfortable item," he added. "I'm wearing a pair right now." 
The Recorder (Greenfield, Mass)
August 30, 1988


1955 | Detail of a legend
Photograph: Phil Stern

Jack Purcell | P.F. Flyers by B.F. Goodrich
Source: Good Closet


Starting from 1937, the B. F. Goodrich's footwear department was marketed under the name P. F. Flyers
The PF in our name stands for that extra help: Posture Foundation. And only PF Flyers have it. The posture Foundation is a rigid rubber wedge built inside each heel. It helps a kid to carry himself correctly, by shifting his body weight to the outside of each foot. So, his weight is better distributed over each foot. 
From a P. F. Flyers ad (May, 1970)

The Posture Foundation concept was based around a 1933 patent by B. F. Goodrich associate Hyman L. Whitman:
My present arch is designed to adapt itself to the sensitive area referred to while still continuing to effect a supporting and rotating action upon the general arch of the foot. The principal object of my invention is therefore an improved arch supporter for use in tennis shoes, leather shoes and like forms of footwear. 
Hyman L. Whitman
(From the patent description - June 1932)

1933 | Hyman L. Whitman
Filed june 22, 1932 | Granted December 5, 1933
Source: Google Patents


1972, NEW YORK | B.F. GOODRICH COMPANY QUITS SHOE MANUFACTURE

The B.F. Goodrich Company announced Tuesday that it would stop manufacturing and marketing footwear — an estimated $100 million a year business. Goodrich is a major American producer of rubber and canvas footwear under the P.F Flyers brand for athletic sneakers and golf shoes, the Jack Purcell Brand for tennis sneakers and the Bootinos brand for vinyl women's boots. According to trade sources, the footwear division accounted for about 10 per cent of the big tire and rubber and producer's volume last year. 
New York Times News Service | April 5, 1972





FOOTNOTES

The B.F. Goodrich Footwear division was bought in 1972 by the New York-based Eltra Corporation whose most recent acquisition was B. F. Goodrich's footwear arch-enemy Converse. In other words: Jack Purcells and Chuck Taylors were manufactured, until 2001, under the same roof, a factory in Lumberton, North Carolina.

By the end of the decade (1970s), Converse was selling just 50,000 Jack Purcells a year, and doing no promotion for the shoe. Then the company's tennis marketing manager, walking in Harvard Square two years ago, spotted a 1955 poster of James Dean looking vaguely beat generation as he lounged on a movie set in chinos and T-shirt.  
"Lo and behold, he had on a pair of Jack Purcells," said Lou Nagy, Converse's marketing communications director. The company this year shaped a $500,000 advertising campaign around the poster, promoting the Jack Purcell in magazines such as Esquire, GQ and The New Yorker. 
The Recorder (Greenfield, Mass)
August 30, 1988


1955 | James Dean
(Left, hidden) Magnum photographer Djion Mili
Photograph: Phil Stern

1989 | The legend exploited
Source: eBay

1955 | James Dean relaxing and wearing Purcells
In the background, senior Magnun photographer Djion Mili (center) and his apprentice Dennis Stock (left)
Photograph: Phil Stern

1926
Genuine New Zippers From
B.F. Goodrich


January 1940
Jack Purcell (1903 - 1991) as seen in LIFE magazine
Source: LIFE

1972 | Jack Purcell featuring
Former World no. 6 tennis player Cliff Richey

Sunday, June 26, 2016

1993 - 1999 | GRAZIANO SPINOSI | SHOES

1993 | Graziano Spinosi
Diane Arbus Shoes | Iron sheet, life-size

1993 | Graziano Spinosi
Artemisia Gentileschi Shoes | Barbed wire, life-size
1994 | Graziano Spinosi
Le Corbusier Shoe | Reinforced concrete, life-size


GRAZIANO SPINOSI
ALL THE SHOES

SHOES & ART
1832 - 2009



1999 | Graziano Spinosi
Saffo Shoes | Rattan, life-size

Friday, June 24, 2016

1961 | ASTRUM | VIGEVANO

1961 | Astrum by Munaretto & Golinelli
Vigevano

1961 | Astrum by Munaretto & Golinelli
Vigevano

1961 | Astrum by Munaretto & Golinelli
Vigevano

1961 | Astrum by Munaretto & Golinelli
Vigevano


1961 VIGEVANO

ERCO



1961 | Astrum by Munaretto & Golinelli
Vigevano

Wednesday, June 22, 2016

1950 | PICASSO - INSPIRED PUMP MADE IN PARIS

1952 | Surreal Shoe | Detail
Source: Unknown Italian Weekly magazine

1950 | Picasso Shoes
Source: Corriere d'Informazione | March 1950

ORIGINAL CAPTION: 
Inspired by Picasso, these sandals were manufactured by a well known (and undisclosed) Parisian artisan. 
Corriere D'Informazione | March 1950



1952 | Surreal Shoe
Source: Unknown Italian Weekly magazine

Monday, June 20, 2016

::: U P D A T E S :::

Ca. 1940 | A Sibley's window display | Rochester


CHELSEA BOOT/BEATLE BOOT
THE ORIGIN, THE STORY & THE LEGACY | FEAT: IGGY POP

SHINING
SHOE BLACKS A.K.A. SHOE POLISHERS APLENTY

TRAVAGLIA & MORONI
PARABIAGO'S SHOE DESIGNERS IN THE THIRTIES

LA MIGLIORE & IL MODELLO MAGAZINES
PHOTO GALLERY

1984 - 1991 | RAYMOND PETTIBON
B&W SHOES

1950 | FRIEDENSREICH HUNDERTWASSER
SELF-MADE SUMMER AND WINTER SHOES

INTERNATIONAL FOOTWEAR MUSEUM OF VIGEANO
MUSEO INTERNAZIONALE DELLA CALZATURA DI VIGEVANO

1967 | GUCCI
IT BAGS

1967 | IT BAGS
MADE IN ITALY | PART 1

1969 | IT BAGS
MADE IN ITALY



1927 - 1929 | Franklin Simon Display Window | Fifth Avenue, NY
Designed by Norman Bel Geddes
Source: Harry Ramson Center (The University Of Texas at Austin)

Shoe Window with Radio at Fligelman's (Late 1920s - early 1930's)

Ca. 1950 | Players Sportwear | Queen Street, Brisbane

Saturday, June 18, 2016

1976 - 1977 | ALLEN JONES | UNTITLED

1976/1977 | Allen Jones | No Title
From Ways And Means | Screenprint on Paper
Source: TATE

1976/1977 | Allen Jones | No Title
From Ways And Means | Screenprint on Paper
Source: TATE

1976/1977 | Allen Jones | No Title
From Ways And Means | Screenprint on Paper
Source: TATE


1968 | ALLEN JONES
THE (COMPLETE) SHOE BOX

SHOES & ART
1832 - 2009



1976/1977 | Allen Jones | No Title
From Ways And Means | Screenprint on Paper
Source: TATE









1976/1977 | Allen Jones | No Title
From Ways And Means | Screenprint on Paper
Source: TATE

http://www.tate.org.uk/art/artworks/jones-no-title-p09053







1976/1977 | Allen Jones | No Title
From Ways And Means | Screenprint on Paper
Source: TATE
http://www.tate.org.uk/art/artworks/jones-no-title-p09033





1976/1977 | Allen Jones | No Title
From Ways And Means | Screenprint on Paper
Source: TATE
http://www.tate.org.uk/art/artworks/jones-no-title-p09041







1968 | ALLEN JONES
THE (COMPLETE) SHOE BOX

http://www.thehistorialist.com/2014/03/1968-allen-jones-complete-shoe-box.html







04
1976/1977 | Allen Jones | No Title
From Ways And Means | Screenprint on Paper
Source: TATE

http://www.tate.org.uk/art/artworks/jones-no-title-p09037

Thursday, June 16, 2016

1959 | ANDRE PERUGIA FOR I.MILLER | THE FRENCH LOOK LAST

1959 | André Perugia for I.Miller
The French Look
Source: The Philadelphia Enquirer


Encore. 
The French Look designed by André Perugia for I.Miller!
By request the fabulous ovalling we introduced to the world for Spring on a new high heel. Here on the left in black patent, beige, light blue, navy, red, green, or violet silk with matching lustred calf. On the right, the high heeled spectator in polished black, Spring Tonic or blue calf. 32,95 each. Matched handbags priced from 26,95 to 37,50. Among the pleasures of the season at
I.Miller 
Source: The Philadelphia Enquirer | March 1959


1959 | I. Miller Presents: The French Look Last by André Perugia
Source: hprints


ANDRE PERUGIA

I. MILLER


Original caption: 
Diamond shape open vamp of pump with flattened oval toe. In blond calf at I.Miller
Source: The New York Times | March 1, 1959

1959 | Drawings by Andy Warhol | New Shoe Opening
Highlighted: I. Miller by Perugia (uncredited)
Source: The New York Times

Other shoes depicted: David Evins for I. Miller (1, 3), Margaret Jerrold (2), I. Miller (4), Delman (5 plus the one next to Perugia)

Tuesday, June 14, 2016

PRIMUS | SAN LORENZO DI PARABIAGO | MILAN

1958 | Primus by Primo Berra
San Lorenzo di Parabiago, Milan
Source: Archivio Centrale dello Stato

1961 | Primus by Primo Berra
San Lorenzo di Parabiago, Milan

Sunday, June 12, 2016

DEAR MR. UPDIKE, YOU WERE OH SO WRONG

THE COBBLER
A democracy of honest workmen, it may be, resists the idea that doing one kind of labor deserves more exaltation and excuses more self-indulgence than doing another kind. The shoemaker, for example, doesn’t get moony and mock-heroic about pounding out his shapely, intricate product, and doesn’t ask to be especially praised for sticking to his last. 

Yet shoes are more plainly useful than books. We all have chosen, in submission to the passions of childhood and accidents of adulthood, lasts to stick to, and the trade of writer is, with its unstructured hours, opportunities for self-expression, and possible rich rewards, sufficiently attractive so that there are far more applicants than positions available. 

John Updike
Odd Jobs (Knopf, 1991)


1877 | Frank Duveneck
The Cobbler's Apprentice | Taft Museum of Art, Cincinnati
Source: Wikipedia



THE COBBLER'S APPRENTICES

Jokingly I called my collection "Discodramatic". Disco because of the 80's disco-music references; and dramatic because, in a way, it is almost up there with the theatre. 
Giuseppe Zanotti | WebModa November 7, 2008


We're in-between Bowie and the Sex Pistols, midway glam-rock theatrics and punk-rock grit. 
Giuseppe Zanotti | Corriere della Sera daily | February 24, 2013



Try to imagine how my ideal woman lives is the most important thing. I was in Miami for a job and I found myself poolside at the Miami Edition Hotel: I saw gorgeous Ralph Lauren-style women elegantly strolling toward the bar or swimming in the pool. And I told myself "So, they really do exist". It was a revelation. My SS16 collection is for them. 
Nicolò Beretta (Giannico) | Cosmopolitan July 20, 2015 
Nowadays even a strong iconic personality like Kim Kardashian could be considered my muse. 
Nicolò Beretta (Giannico) | Cosmopolitan July 20, 2015

2011 | Tim Parsley (in partnership with Carter and The Taft Museum of Art)
The Cobbler's Apprentice Plays Ball

Friday, June 10, 2016

1961 - 1963 | SHOE WINDOW DISPLAYS BY MONDIAL VETRINA, MILAN

Mondial Vetrina | Milan
Shoe Window Accesories

1963 | Shoe window detail
Display by Mondial Vetrina | Milan
Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso magazine

1963 | Shoe window detail
Display by Mondial Vetrina | Milan
Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso magazine

1963 | Shoe window
Display by Mondial Vetrina | Milan
Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso magazine

1961 | Shoe window
Display by Mondial Vetrina | Milan
Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso magazine

1963 | Mondial Vetrina | Milan
Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso magazine


1963 | Displays by Mondial Vetrina | Milan 
The "Swedish series" 
Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso magazine


Wednesday, June 8, 2016

1967 | IT BAGS MADE IN ITALY | PART 2

1967 | Piccini (Handbag) | Florence
Golden Street (Shoes) | Colonnata, Carrara

1967 | Menin
Fossò, Venice

1967 | Menin
Fossò, Venice

1967 | Castioni
Milan

1967 | Donini
Casalecchio, Bologna



IT BAGS MADE IN ITALY

1967 | PART 1

1968 (SS33)

1969




1967 | Piccini
Florence