ANDRE PERUGIA DOSSIER


He created jewels, not shoes. 
Mario Valentino
1980 | L'Officiel De La Mode
Andre Perugia was an innovator. He had a lifelong contract with I. Miller. When we traveled to the company's Carlisle, Pa., factory, he told [the workers] what he wanted to make, and they said, "Get him out of here," because his ideas were so far out there. He tried cage heels, no heels, under-slung heels, but they never came out in the mainstream then. Perugia was an original. He made all these designs that designers are still influenced by today. 
Arsho Baghsarian (Dior, I.Miller, Shoe Biz, Stuart Weitzman)
July 2008 | Footwear News





Studi completi su André Perugia non esistono. L'opuscolo scritto da Odile Premel per la collezione Perugia, custodita dalla società Charles Jourdan, rappresenta una preziosa eccezione tanto da riapparire quasi integralmente - e privo di crediti - nel libro "The Art Of The Shoe" (Parkstone Press, 2004). Per contro, la voce di Wikipedia, in realtà solo un segnaposto, contiene due errori in tre righe. E così pure le varie biografie pubblicate in molti libri e riproposte acriticamente in rete con il conseguente propagarsi di mezze verità, falsi miti ed errori pacchiani. Qui proponiamo solo una parte del nostro lavoro di ricerca su André Perugia, mentre un nostro libro a lui dedicato vedrà la luce a tempo debito.

A thorough study about André Perugia doesn't exists. Actually - forget thorough - there's no study at all about the Italian-French bottier, save for the precious booklet written by Odile Premel, about the Charles Jourdan-owned Perugia collection, which reappeared - the bulk of it - uncredited in the book "The Art Of The Shoe" (Parkstone Press, 2004). On the other hand, the Wikipedia entry - just a stub - contains two errors in three sentences. And the same goes about biographical notes published in many books (not) quoted all over the web without double checking. Here you'll find just a small part of our research about André Perugia, while the complete work will appears in due time in a book form.



HEELSTORY
[André Perugia Patents & Inventions]

1934
Wire Metal Heels

1939

1950
Talon à Boules

Eartha Kitt LOVES That Talon à Boules (Stacked Spheres heel)

1951
It's A Shoe-In

1953
The Corkscrew Heel Pump

1956
I.Miller Is The Trend

Perugia & Mervin Zuckerman
The Twin Patents | Interchangeable Heels for I.Miller

1958
Perugia for I.Miller
The Chemise Heel



PerugiART


1924
The Arlequinade shoe companion for Poiret

1925/1926
The Orphic Collection  Part 1 | Part 2

1937
The Perugia Shoe & The Schiaparelli Hat

1938
The Suede & Monkey-Fur Boots For Schiaparelli
Homage To René Magritte

1940
The Panchromatic Pantoufle
[With Pierre Roy]

1953
Perugia & Andy Warhol
The Cubist Sandal

1923-1950s
Perugia & Andy Warhol
From Footwear To Art [And Back Again]

1955 [NOT 1931]
The Fish Shoe
Homage To Georges Braque



THE MOVIES &
THEATRE
PRODUCTIONS

1927
Blanche Montel
For André Perugia And Alpina]

1928
The Forest Of Snakes
[Revue Du Casino De Paris]

1938

1954
New Faces (Taken from Broadway production "Leonard Sillman's New Faces Of 1952"
Starring Eartha Kitt

1957
Cinderella
(Starring Julie Andrews)


CHRONICLES
[Perugia Year By Year]

1920
The Model "Caprice"

The Model Automne #2

1921 - 1925
Perugia Shoes As Seen In La Gazette Du Bon Ton

1921 - 1929
The Mask Models (feat. The Harlequin)
Part 1
Part 2
Part 3

1922
Perugia Mule Incognito At The Metropolitan Museum Of Art, NY


Perugia copies by John Wanamaker

1923

The Perugia/Warhol Golden Shoe  At The Moulin Rouge (Also In GREEN)

The model "Diablotin"

The model "Athénien"

1924
The Arlequinade shoe companion for Poiret

1925
[As Seen In L'Officiel De La Mode]

Evening Shoes
[As Seen In Vogue. Now At A Museum Near You]

1926
The Euclid Geometric Pumps
André Perugia For I.Miller

Mistinguett
And Her Perugia Monogrammed Shoes

1926/1927
The Model "Rosary"

1927
The Model Gocasse for I.Miller & Alpina
[Feat. Josephine Baker]

1928
Marylin Miller For André Perugia
[Feat. Alexander Stirling Calder]

Perugia Advertisement In PAN
Annuaire Du Luxe A Paris

1929
The Articulated Sole

The model "Rêverie"

1933
Model for Hortense Lenore Mitchell

1934

Perugia Still Incognito At The Metropolitan Museum Of Art, NY

Sophie Gimbel Wears André Perugia's Padova

André Perugia's Padova at London's V&A

1937
The Original Heel-Less Shoe

The Schiaparelli/Dalí shoe-hat & the shoe

Perugia for Schiaparelli S/S 1937

1938

Sandal for Schiaparelli (Blueprint for a Delman sandal)

The Draped Heel

1939
Perugia Incognito On The Cover of Harper's Bazaar
[Drawing By A.M. Cassandre]

Meet Lucienne Legrand
[Mrs. André Perugia]

1939 | The Three Sphere Sandal
For Elsa Schiaparelli

1940


1948 - 1952 | André Perugia for Christian Dior

1948 - 1952 | INTRO
1949 - 1951 | BARING THE FOOT | PART 1 | PART 2
1950 - 1952 | BEAU A LA MODE [BOWS]
1948 - 1952 | EPILOGUE


1949
Court Shoes Of Clear Nylon 

1950
The Icon Shoe At BATA Shoe Museum
[For Lack Of Better Words]

1950's
Perugia And Pierre Cardin

1951
Evening Sandal With Satin Inner Boot

1953
The Corkscrew Heel Pump

1955
The V Throat line
[For Jacques Fath & I.Miller]

For Jacques Fath
Part 2

1956
I.Miller Is The Trend
[Perugia Invents, I.Miller Presents]

The Disappearing Pump for Givenchy
Part 1 | Part 2

The "Cape"

The Circlet Boot

1957
The "Forecast" model

Spectators for I.Miller

Paradox: the Open/Closed Look For I.Miller

1958
The "Chemise Heel"
For I.Miller

1959
The French Look Last
For I.Miller

1960
The White/Black Dècolletè

VARIOUS YEARS
Perugia At The MET
Setting The Record Straight

ANDRE PERUGIA
AT THE MUSEE D'HISTOIRE DE LA VIE QUOTIDIENNE
Part 1 | Part 2

STRANGER THAN FICTION
André Perugia cameo appearances in novels


1955 | André Perugia | The fish-shoe at
'La chaussure, une passion française ' - Atelier Richelieu, Paris 2012
Source: Getty Images


 

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