Sunday, August 31, 2014

BEN BENJAMIN | DESIGNER & SHOEMAKER | PART 3 | CRIK-ETTS

Crik-Etts Inc. | Distinctive Footwear
131 West 17th Street - New York 11 - NY
Source: Julia Salleres/Women's Footwear In America

The detailed I.Miller bio about Ben Benjamin doesn't mention Crik-etts at all. In fact, it jumps from Schwartz & Benjamin (1919-1937) to his role as General Manager of the I.Miller's Long Island City plant (May 19, 1952). A newspaper clipping from June 15th, 1952 reports:

"…Mr. Benjamin is well known in the shoe industry, having spent some 46 years in it. At one time he was a partner in Schwartz & Benjamin, Inc. He was also an officer of The Reinhart Shoe Company, Inc., and owner of Cricketts, Inc. (sic). His most recent association was with Sherry Shoemakers of Boston, which post he left to go with I.Miller."

Which leads us to speculate that Crik-etts was at one time sold, being still active a few years after Mr. Benjamin joined I.Miller.

Julia Salleres: 
I recently found an ad from 1962 and a Licensing agreement from August 15th, 1958 between my grandfather and The Irving Drew Corporation in Lancaster, Ohio.

Unfortunately not much else is known.

Julia Salleres: 
"My grandfather, Ben Benjamin, created a shoe called Crik-etts that boasted the first flexible sole. I found these clippings (the last two) with some other things he gave me. He didn’t tell me much about it. I wish I had known to ask him about this part of his life and also his days at I. Miller that followed."


1943 | Crik-etts in Wartime
Bring Ration Book No.1 to purchase
At Gimbels, Pittsburgh

1943 | Crik-etts in Wartime
Bring Ration Book No.3 to purchase
At Gimbels, Pittsburgh

1946 | San Jose
Customer Eva Groger V/S Crik-etts
San Jose News | March 1946

1948 | Crik-etts | Sabot Strap
No more Rationing Books!
Sold at Gimbels, Pittsburgh

1952 | Crik-etts
At Lamson's | Toledo, Ohio

Crik-etts

Introducing
BEN BENJAMIN

BEN BENJAMIN
Designer & Shoemaker | Schwartz & Benjamin
PART 2


BEN BENJAMIN
Designer & Shoemaker | Crik-Etts
PART 3


BEN BENJAMIN
Designer & Shoemaker | I. Miller
PART 4

Friday, August 29, 2014

BEN BENJAMIN | DESIGNER & SHOEMAKER | PART 2 | SCHWARTZ & BENJAMIN

1934 | Ben Benjamin
Patent USD 93196 S

From the Ben Benjamin bio issued by I. Miller (circa 1955)

He was all of 14 years of age when he put on an apron and reported for his term with A. & W. Flatau & Company, LTD., of London. He had chosen the shoe trade and he aimed to learn it from the ground up. This he did, with five years of apprentice training that gave him such a thorough grounding in the art of making real quality shoes that his course has never since be altered.


A. & W. Flatau & Company, LTD., | London
Source:Women's Footwear In America

From the Ben Benjamin bio issued by I. Miller (circa 1955)

When he left Flatau he joined James Branch, LTD., London manufacturers of men's shoes, as a cutter, and held down the same kind of job with Weber And Phillips of London, makers of ladies' shoes. the call of America lured Ben Benjamin to Harrisburg, Penn., where he worked in a children's shoe manufacturing plant. A year later he returned to the women's shoe field, with Wichert And Gardner of Brooklyn … 

Ben Benjamin: 
Then I had the opportunity to get a job in another factory where the owner was an Englishman and I got the job there cutting shoes and wasn’t working there very long when the owner sent up with his secretary a note that I should come to his house. He wanted to know what my experience was in the trade. He wasn’t satisfied with the Foreman of that dept. He told me he wanted to make me foreman there, see? He says to start I’m going to make you assistant foreman. He wanted to know whether I could make patterns and I said yes. I learned all that in England. How to make patterns, how to draw sketches and things like that. So he says I let you know whenever I’m ready. Well it took about 4 or 5 months before I heard another word from him. Then they called me down and told me they were going to make me assistant foreman. Well the foreman didn’t like it, so in a few months he quit and I became Foreman. 
I was very friendly with the other foremen. There was one foreman who was in the packing room, he and another foreman in a factory 2 blocks down the street (DeKalb Ave.) wanted to go into business with this other man named Cohen. He was a foreman in charge of Heeling in that particular factory where he was working in. He wanted to know whether I’d help them pick out the last and make their first patterns for them. I knew all about the layout of the factory. So I said all right. I’ll help you out. I says I’ll make your patterns. I’ll even cut your samples. At that time they were making boots. 9 – 10 inch boots, some with buttons, some laced and it was quite a job to do. You have to draft the last first. See you’ve got so many different style last, high heels, or low heels and the pattern has to be made differently from a lower heeled last than a higher heel, and I did all that. I even cut the shoes. I said you get them stitched and fitted somewhere else. I can’t do no more.

1924 | Brooklyn
Sigman & Cohen V/S the Unions
Source: Daily Eagle, Brooklyn, NY

Ben Benjamin: 
They (Sigman & Cohen) rented a small loft. Enough to make 200 pair of shoes a day. I went over there and I laid out the plan for them. Showed em where to lay it out. What to do. What machines go here and what machines to buy there and said you’re on your own. They somehow got lost. They didn’t know what do. Would I come in with them? I said I’ve got no money to go into business. They said we’ll give you some stock and well lend you some money to buy more stock when you come in with us. So I figured it out and finally decided to do it. Chance to break out. I told Mr. Albert I was leaving him. He says I don’t want to stop you from getting on he says but you got a tough road ahead of you, see to build up a factory in these days. I said you took a chance, I said I want a take a chance, and I did.


1934 | Ben Benjamin
Patent USD 939087 S


From the Ben Benjamin bio issued by I. Miller (circa 1955)

Following that he was a Cutting Room Foreman for J. Alberts And Son of Brooklyn, and a member of the firm of Sigman And Cohen, women's shoe manufacturers, before finally teaming up with Ben Schwartz as Schwartz And Benjamin of New York City in 1919. This partnership continued happily and successfully for 18 years …



He was a founding partner in the American Shoe Company Schwartz & Benjamin but slowly the Schwartz family took over the company and my grandfather unhappy and not wanting to cause problems between brothers asked to be bought out. It was years before Ben Schwartz finally agreed. It’s sad that he seems to have vanished from any of the Schwartz & Benjamin company history. When I did a search and found they had just celebrated their 90th anniversary there was little mention of him except in the timeline as a partner.



1935 | Ben Benjamin
Patent USD95890 S

Ben Benjamin: 
A couple years before I got out, before we moved into New York City. We talked it over, Ben Schwartz & I, about starting a factory out of town instead of NY. See? It was getting impossible to lead the business there because of the unions and their demands. Prices kept on going up higher, and new machinery was coming into place. So people out of town who made cheap shoes could make better shoes than what they were making with the new equipment. So we went. We went to Lynn, and Boston and St. Louis, Cincinnati. We went all around. When I came back we sat down and talked it over. I says Ben, after seeing all the towns, I think Lynn is the best place of the lot. A lot of the shoe factories have went out of business there. Not good shoemakers like we’ve got in New York, but they could be trained–taught to make better shoes. After I got out, Ben Schwartz did finally go to Lynn. 
I created a little pump with a certain bow on it…and that’s what kept us busy…Well that little shoe, forget now what the name… we had a name for it…And I kept on creating new things and I’ll never forget one shoe I created. A step in, kind of an open throat, I remember crossing the instep…there was a piece. There was no, no going there but it had a square on one tag and I got a hold of some buttons, brass buttons, some with pearl, with a loop in the back see? And uh…I put 4 buttonholes and I made the leather different on one side to two of the other. I had been sick. I went down to Bermuda for a few days just when the style show was on. Ben Schwartz cabled me in Bermuda. I forget the name of that shoe now. He says the shoes gotten over big, very big. Now I had patented that design but first thing I knew everyone started to copy it. All Manufacturers. But we did a lot with it. You had to sue them and we didn’t have that much money. We were a small company, see? Cost you and dragged on for 2 or 3 years. By the time the trial comes up the style is all gone, over. Wasn’t worth it. After a while I stopped patenting styles. It didn’t pay. 


1936 | Ben Benjamin
Patent USD 2049347 A



My Grandfather told me Ben Schwartz was a bookkeeper by trade and a salesman when a mutual friend introduced them. My grandfather was the shoemaker as you can see from the Patent Sketches. Early on he designed the shoes, made the patterns and laid out and ran the factories.






More about SCHWARTZ & BENJAMIN
at
Women's Footwear
In America


Introducing
BEN BENJAMIN

BEN BENJAMIN
Designer & Shoemaker | Schwartz & Benjamin
PART 2


BEN BENJAMIN
Designer & Shoemaker | Crik-Etts
PART 3


BEN BENJAMIN
Designer & Shormaker | I. Miller
PART 4


Wednesday, August 27, 2014

INTRODUCING BEN BENJAMIN [1891 - 1982] | DESIGNER & SHOEMAKER | PART 1

Women's Footwear In America is a footwear blog run by Julia Salleres. Unlike other footwear blogs, W'sFIA give us unique perspectives about the footwear industry of the last century as told by Ben Benjamin, Julia's grandfather. The man was there, in the thick of it. Crik-etts, for instance, was his creation, so was Schwartz & Benjamin. In the 50's he joined the I.Miller shoe company but not many outside the shoe industry know about Ben Benjamin, so it's time to correct this. Let's hear what Julia has to say.


1955 | I.Miller
Feat. Ben Benjamin, the master shoemaker
Source: Women's Footwear In America

Julia Salleres:

As the daughter of a shoe salesman and granddaughter of a shoemaker my love of shoes and fashion began early. Growing up there was always a copy of Footwear News on the kitchen table. My father had a home office with shelves of women’s shoes and handbags (one of a kind) and our garage was filled with shoemaker tools from my grandfather’s days in the factory.


Ben Benjamin & Julia Salleres
Source: Women's Footwear In America

Julia Salleres:

Here are the events in his life leading up to the first company Ben Benjamin helped start, Sigman And Cohen Women’s Shoe Manufacturers of Brooklyn. The quotes are from tape-recorded conversations I made when I was 12 and he would come over every Sunday for dinner. I tried to keep it as brief as possible. I’ve always been in awe of his journey from an orphan born in England to a successful American shoe manufacturer. I only knew him as a frail old man, but still with a tenacious spirit who painted into his 90’s and told his grandchildren that he knew if he learned how to make shoes he would never be hungry.


The young Ben Benjamin
Source: Women's Footwear In America

Julia Salleres:

Haunted by the tapes I made of my grandfather as a child I’ve always wanted to share his story, so I started Women's Footwear In America to try and put together the missing pieces. The answers are out there I just have to keep asking the questions. The first place I started was a box of papers I had. It was a mess of old college letters, drawings from high school, stickers, junk, but inside all of that junk there was a manila envelope with some letters and notebooks that my grandfather must have given me I had forgotten about. They were his notebooks from when he was an apprentice in England as a boy and the letters of reference that he brought with him to America.


1913 | A & W Flatau & Co. LTD.
Source: Women's Footwear In America

THE BENJAMIN TAPES

Ben Benjamin:
When I was about 8 years old my father decided to go to Belfast. Things were bad. Mother had a lot of children by that time. When I was 8 there must have been 6 or 7 kids. See? I was the oldest. There was a baby boy Harry. He died in Belfast as a baby. Then Aunt Dora was born in Belfast. We lived in Belfast almost 4 years. So I was 12 years old by the time we came back to London. My father got sick and the Dr. advised him to get to a dry climate. Northern Ireland is a very damp country. It could rain for 30, 40 days straight. That’s why it’s called the Emerald Isle. Cause its green, because it’s got so much rain.

Julia Salleres:
The doctor told his father to go to South Africa, instead the family came back to London to the East End. My grandfather’s parents died when he was a child. His mother first in childbirth at the age of 32 and 10 weeks later his father at the age of 36. They left 8 children behind and my grandfather spent his entire life trying to keep his brothers and sisters together.

Ben Benjamin:
Then we were gradually broken up. Those that could help us didn’t want to and those that wanted to couldn’t. That’s the way it went. The Jewish Board of Guardians was a charitable organization run by wealthy Jews in England. They paid for the funeral for my mother and father and later when my brother died – he was 14 in the orphan home, they paid for that, but you couldn’t put up a tombstone unless you paid that money back. After I was here in this country, first time I went back to London, after I was here 18 or 19 years, went back to pay them off. Give them the money they spent for the funeral and put tombstones up for the three of them.


Jewish Board Of Guardians | London

Ben Benjamin: 
The Jewish Board of Guardians they take boys when they’re 14 and leave school and apprentice them to a trade. So they did that with me and the first place they apprenticed me, they wanted me to go to a cabinetmakers shop where they made furniture. I didn’t like it so much because I had to get up at 5 in the morning. I lived out in the suburbs. I had to go all the way down to London to the East End of London and found it was too much and asked them to get me something else, so they put me in a shoe factory. I didn’t mind it. It was also far and awkward to get to, but there I apprenticed for 5 years. 
The second year I was supposed to go to another department, see? They didn’t want to put me there. They wanted me to stay in the department I was in cause I was doing good there, satisfying them, getting the work done properly. There were 12 apprentices, it was a big plant. I said no, I’ve got an apprenticeship. I’ve got my Indentures, which is the papers that you sign to work there for 5 years and I’m suppose to go and learn this and you wouldn’t teach me that, so I left. I found myself a job in some other factory, but they forced me back. They made me come back on the promise you live up to my agreement. Did they live up to your agreement? Yes they did.


Introducing
BEN BENJAMIN

BEN BENJAMIN
Designer & Shoemaker | Schwartz & Benjamin
PART 2


BEN BENJAMIN
Designer & Shoemaker | Crik-Etts
PART 3


BEN BENJAMIN
Designer & Shoemaker | I. Miller
PART 4


Monday, August 25, 2014

1955 | ANDRE' PERUGIA | THE V THROATLINE FOR JACQUES FATH AND I.MILLER

1955 | André Perugia for Jacques Fath | Detail
V throat shoes with the very innovative heel patented by Perugia in 1951
Source: L'Officiel 

At the Chicago Shoe Fair - October 1955.

Designer of the V Throatline:

Advocate of the V Throatline is I. Miller & Sons. The man who concocted the line, because he firmly believes it is the coming think, is André Perugia, who greeted the reporter at the door. And he speaks of trends with authority, for he works in Paris designing shoes for Fath and Givenchy collections.

"I cannot speak English so good," Perugia apologized, but the explanations were understandable. He reached for a bisque colored pump with the most pointed of toes. Throatline followed the toe line to add the V line a perforated band which followed the throat. "They are comfortable" assured the tall, slim man in a gray business suit. "You got them a little longer." Lowered heels accompany the V line, it was explained. "This line is straight now." and Perugia ran his finger down the side of a pump.

Lucile Preuss
The Milwakee Journal, October 24, 1955


1955 | André Peurgia for I.Miller and Sons
Source: The Milwakee Journal, October 24, 1955


1955 | ANDRE PERUGIA
FOR JACQUES FATH
PART 2

ANDRE PERUGIA
BOTTIER
I N D E X




1955 | Laced dress Jacques Fath
Laced fabric by Pierre Brivet, with pearl-embroidered flowers by Lesage
Shoes with pointed toes, V-throatline and futuristic heel by André Perugia.
Source: L'Officiel

Thursday, August 21, 2014

1971/1972 | TITANO | SPORTWEAR WITH CORK SOLES

1971 | TITANO | Cerro Maggiore (Milan)
Designed by Salvatore Deodato | Part of the Zaffaroni Collection
Sole by Achille Pellegatta | Busto Arsizio (Varese)
Photograph by Matteo Zaffaroni

1971 | TITANO | Cerro Maggiore (Milan)
Designed by Salvatore Deodato | Part of the Zaffaroni Collection
Sole by Achille Pellegatta | Busto Arsizio (Varese)
Photograph by Matteo Zaffaroni

1971 | TITANO | Cerro Maggiore (Milan)
Designed by Salvatore Deodato | Part of the Zaffaroni Collection
Sole by Achille Pellegatta | Busto Arsizio (Varese)
Photograph by Matteo Zaffaroni


TITANO
CERRO MAGGIORE, MILAN
I N D E X


1972 | AP | Achille Pellegatta by Luigi & Leonardo Pellegatta
Sole/Last Maker (Busto Arsizio, Varese)
Collection designed by Deodato

Tuesday, August 19, 2014

1933 | PIRELLI | PEDESTRIAN'S TIRES

1933 | Pirelli Advertising for soles and heels
For sale everywhere

1933 | Pirelli | Detail
The benefits: "Young-looking gait; non- fatiguing and elastic step; protection against the soil moisture; 
incomparable durability"

Sunday, August 17, 2014

2004-2014 | HEELSTORY | THE METAL CHAIN HEEL BY CHARLES JOURDAN | TEN YEAR ANNIVERSARY

2004 | Charles Jourdan
Source: INPI (Institut National de la Propriété Industrielle)

Description: heel shaped like a metal chain. Model ZILINA. Side view.
Patent filed July 6, 2004 | Expired July 6, 2014
Source: INPI


2004 | Charles Jourdan
Photograph by Anne Coudurier
Source: Joconde/Musée International de la Chaussure de Romans



2004 | Charles Jourdan | Designed by Patrick Cox
Photograph by Anne Coudurier
Source: Joconde/Musée International de la Chaussure de Romans


The Museum record states:
Boot model "ZANZI", black kid (based on a model created by André Perugia for Elsa Schiaparelli in 1930, in turn inspired by Magritte's painting "L'amour Désarmé".

Actually the Perugia model is from 1938, part of Schiaparelli's Circus collection.


1938 | André Perugia (for Perugia's own brand Padova)/Elsa Schiaparelli
Suede and monkey fur
Gift of Mme Elsa Schiaparelli, 1969


Footnotes
Romans' photograph and info as featured on the book "Scarpe" (Edited by Ilaria Danieli and Rosa Chiesa, Rizzoli 2010)




A piece of history up for sale
[Not anymore)

2004 | Charles Jourdan
Source: Eloisa Vintage

2004 | Charles Jourdan
Source: Eloisa Vintage

12 - 26 - 2007 | Jean Marc | Last day at the factory (a day after X-Mas)
Ornament model maker for 31 years at Charles Jourdan


You may have noticed the patent expired July 6, 2014 and someone was quick to adopt the idea.


Spring 2014 | Tom Ford
Buckled Chain-Heel Cutout Sandal
Available at Neiman Marcus ($ 1,400)

Wednesday, August 13, 2014

ALESSANDRO SPINELLI | FIBBIE D'AUTORE | NARCISSUS SELF PUBLISHING, 2014



Alessandro Spinelli - classe 1934 - é un collezionista di scarpe, di moto, di biciclette e di attrezzi agricoli; é anche un ex imprenditore specializzato nella produzione di minuterie metalliche, soprattutto fibbie e decorazioni destinate sia alla moda che all'ambito tecnico-professionale. 


1948 | Alessandro Spinelli con una delle sue passioni

Di lui abbiamo parlato a proposito del suo Museo della Calzatura (nonché di oggetti legati alla produzione calzaturiera) in quel di Torrita di Siena, ma ora è possibile approfondire la sua storia personale e professionale grazie all'autobiografia in versione e-book intitolata: "Fibbie d'Autore - Momenti da ricordare nella storia della calzatura, dal punto di vista di un produttore di minuterie" (Narcissus Self Publishing, 2014).

ZEDAPA | Padova


Allacciando le stringhe degli scarponi da montagna o delle calzature antinfortunistica non si fa più nemmeno caso alla comodità dei ganci di chiusura; come pure viene data per scontata la grande praticità con cui si regola la larghezza di alcuni cinturini, ad esempio degli zoccoli, senza usare fibbie e ganci, ma grazie a dentini rigidi che si inseriscono nei fori del cinturino.

"Mentre osservavo le persone che camminavano, io non facevo che interrogarmi sulle possibili soluzioni utili a migliorare l’estetica e la funzionalità delle loro scarpe.” racconta Alessandro Spinelli.

Tutta la prima parte della narrazione è dedicata ai ricordi dell'infanzia e della giovinezza dell'autore nella campagna senese. Poi si arriva all'epoca del servizio militare e ai primi contatti con il settore delle minuterie metalliche grazie all'esperienza presso la Zedapa di Padova, “la prima fabbrica italiana di occhielli metallici e minuterie di precisione”, la cui fondazione risaliva al XIX secolo.



Brevetto S.A.M.M.I.
Ghigliottina con fascetta


Nel 1968 il passaggio da dipendente a imprenditore con la fondazione “S.A.M.M.I. S.r.l. (Spinelli Alessandro Minuterie Metalliche Italiane)”, la sua esperienza professionale più importante. Spinelli ricorda ad esempio la clip a scatto che permetteva di rendere intercambiabili fiocchi ed altre decorazioni sulle décolletées negli anni '80 o le fibbie di ispirazione etrusca sempre di quegli anni.



1985 | S.A.M.M.I.
Fibbia brevettata

I capitoli più interessanti sono quelli dedicati alle innovazioni sviluppate dalla Sammi soprattutto nel settore tecnico/sportivo e alle collaborazioni nel settore Moda. Salvatore Deodato, Giuliano Gobbi, Mario Cesetti, Umberto Tosetti, Valenti sono i nomi degli stilisti la cui collaborazione con la Sammi viene ricordata con affetto da Alessandro Spinelli.


1997, Maggio | Gli Accessori S.A.M.M.I. sulla
Copertina di Ars Sutoria # 258

1997 | Accessori S.A.M.M.I. disegnati da Gianfranco Baldacci
Fonte: Ars Sutoria

Terminata l'esperienza professionale, Alessandro Spinelli decide di catalogare quanto aveva raccolto creando il proprio museo della calzatura.


Il sito de Il Museo Della Calzatura di Alessandro Spinelli
Foto: Irma Vivaldi

Nel 2000, finalmente, io decisi di lasciare la guida dell’azienda a mio figlio Andrea. In quel periodo decisi anche di raccogliere e raggruppare tutto quel che avevo realizzato in cinquant’anni di vita professionale, e di “dare un corpo” al fardello di esperienza che avevo racchiuso in me.
E così è nato il mio Museo della Calzatura, un museo privato che si trova (naturalmente) a Torrita di Siena, nella mia Valdichiana, e raccoglie una discreta collezione di scarpe: circa 2.000 pezzi. 
Alessandro Spinelli | Da Fibbie D'Autore

"Fibbie D'Autore" ha il merito di illustrare una piccola storia del made in Italy con una lungimiranza che la quasi totalità dei calzaturifici italiani non ha mai avuto e - nelle intenzioni dell'autore - intende essere un invito per i giovani imprenditori che vogliono affrontare il mercato del lavoro.


Alessandro Spinelli. “Fibbie d'Autore”, Narcissus Self Publishing, 2014 (Disponibile presso il sito dell'autore).





Monday, August 11, 2014

1971 | TITANO'S BOXING SHOE | DESIGNED BY SALVATORE DEODATO | ONE OF A KIND

1971 | Titano | Shoe made out of a boxing glove
Designed by Salvatore Deodato | Part of the Zaffaroni Collection
Photograph by Matteo Zaffaroni

At the Footwear Museum Cav. Vincenzo Adinolfi | S. Elpidio A Mare
Photograph by Matteo Zaffaroni

At the Footwear Museum Cav. Vincenzo Adinolfi | S. Elpidio A Mare
Photograph by Matteo Zaffaroni


1971 | Milan's MICAM
Titano's Adriano Sciuccati V/S Salvatore Deodato



FOOTNOTE

1971 | L. Brancondi | Loreto (Ancona)
The boxing buckle designed by Salvatore Deodato

The Shoe Maker TITANO
I N D E X