Monday, July 31, 2017

SURREAL SHOES

Even the homeliest objects caught Arp's eye. Something of a fetishist about shoes (he designed his own), he could walk for hours simply to get a better look at the cut of a heel or the contour of a sole glimpsed ahead of him, which would then appear in bas-reliefs, such as one Peggy (Guggenheim) was to buy called Overturned Blue Shoe with Two Heels Under a Black Vault.
Jacqueline Bograd Weld
From: Peggy. The Wayward Guggenheim (Dutton Books, 1986)

CA. 1925 | Jean Arp
Overturned Blue Shoe with Two Heels Under a Black Vault
Soulier bleu renversé à deux talons, sous une voûte noire

Painted wood
© 2017 Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York/VG Bild-Kunst, Bonn
Source: Guggenheim


Many Artists worked through the transition from realism to modernist abstraction by studying and emulating successful artist of their time. The goal was not to copy the masterworks by to learn structure and technique in the process of developing a personal style. This painting was the cover piece for the 1947-1948 Texas General Exhibition.
Source: Live Auctioneers

1946 | DeForrest Judd (1916 - 1992)
Yellow Shoes (Oil On Masonite)
Source: Live Auctioneers

1968 | Marisa Merz
Untitled (Scarpetta/Little Shoe)
Source: TATE


If the Shoe Fits is a large floor-based sculpture made from corrugated and flat sheets of galvanized steel. The work's title has prompted commentators to read its ambiguous shape as a solitary piece of oversized footwear, bereft of its partner.
Source: TATE 

1981 | Richard Deacon
If The Shoe Fits
Source: Lisson Gallery


Having considered a variety of materials -- including concrete and fiberglass - Murray chose laminated wood and a boatlike construction plainly visible inside the shoe. Constructed over the course of 1996 in Murray's New York studio, Red Shoe has brought to life a formerly forgotten corner of campus. It is an alluring place for children to climb, its smooth exterior giving way to a roughly hull-like interior, hinting at the enclosure of a nest or fort.
Source: Stuart Collection | UC San Diego

1996 | Elisabeth Murray (1940 - 2007)
Red Shoe
Source: Stuart Collection | UC San Diego


1998 | Elisabeth Murray (1940 - 2007)
Shoe And Lace (Watercolor on Paper)
Source: ArtNet


SHOES & ART
1932 - 2009


Tuesday, July 25, 2017

1952 | STAERCK | PARIS | THE ’S’ METAL HEEL

From URIC magazine, issue 92 - Summer/Winter 1952:
Walking ideas; the ’S’ heel suggested by our own FENOGLIO (Elio, Fashion Editor) on issue N.90 (pag. 21) has been produced by the young STAERCK from Paris and successfully showcased on the Parisian runways back in October. Since then, the idea spread all over the world and hailed by magazines everywhere …


La rivista URIC scriveva nel numero 92 (Estate/Inverno 1952):
Le idee camminano; il tacco ad “S” suggerito dal nostro FENOGLIO (Elvio, redattore Moda) nel N. 90 a pagina 21 é stato realizzato dal giovane STAERCK di Parigi e presentato con grande successo alle sfilate parigine d’ottobre. Da allora l’idea si é diffusa in tutto il mondo, esaltata da tutti i giornali …

1952 | Staerck (Paris)
The ’S’ Heel

Source: URIC magazine # 92 (Summer/Winter 1952)


Actually we haven’t found the ’S’ heel - or better, an upside-down ‘8’ - anywhere else, but that doesn’t detract from it’s own originality. It is also sad to note that even Staerck is missing in action in spite being at the center of the fashion world.

A few years later, Staerck’s footsteps has been followed by Albanese Of Rome - a clever designer but not ashamed to adopt other people's ideas - with a streamlined version within a collection of metal heels.


Il tacco ad ’S’ - che poi é un ‘8’ rovesciato - in realtà non lo abbiamo trovato su nessun altra rivista, ma non per questo la sua originalità viene messa in discussione, anzi; serve invece segnalare come anche di Staerck si siano perse le tracce nonostante sfilasse a Parigi sotto gli occhi del mondo.

Chi lo ha seguito, qualche anno dopo, é stato Albanese di Roma - designer di talento, ma non nuovo a libere interpretazioni di idee altrui - che ne ha proposto una versione semplificata nell’ambito di una collezione con tacchi metallici.



HEELSTORY
HEEL HISTORY IN PICTURES

1960 | Albanese Of Rome
Source: Istituto Luce


And finally, add 25 more years down the line and the heel makes a new appearance in the North-East of Italy ..



1985 | Rossimoda
Source: Scarpe (Rizzoli, 2010)
An innovative model with an "8" shaped heel says the caption

Tuesday, July 18, 2017

SAVE THE DUTCH LEATHER & SHOE MUSEUM


Save SLEM and therewith the Dutch Leather and Shoe Museum!
Help us maintain this unique Dutch piece of heritage for later generations. 


SLEM total is a foundation in which SLEM education and the Dutch Leather and Shoe Museum have been merged. The aim of this merger is to develop a new contemporary and leading museum concept for the future. Since the beginning of 2017 a transition program has been implemented to make the new concept's objectives clear to the public.


Capricio | Made In Italy
Source: Dutch Leather & Shoe Museum

Courtesy Inge Specht-den Boer (Curator/PR)


The municipal council has made the choice to repel the (according to them) unprofitable education department by bankruptcy of this department, shortly after the opening of the first exhibitions of the transition program. A plan that can cause widespread consequences and even bankruptcy of the museum and the sale and fragmentation of the entire collection!


Capricio | Made In Italy
Source: Dutch Leather & Shoe Museum

Courtesy Inge Specht-den Boer (Curator/PR)


A rescue plan, with the aim to reject the education department without bankruptcy, was presented before the Council meeting of June 15. Of course this requires financial backing from the municipality of Waalwijk. Although this financial support is in no way equal to the costs incurred by bankruptcy. And above all, it is not in relation to the possible loss of a unique collection of objects that represents the history, culture and identity of Waalwijk. It is therefore unbelievable that the municipality of Waalwijk has decided to lead on to the bankruptcy of SLEM education.




Jan Josef Horemans (1714- 1792)
Shoemaker workshop - Late 18th Century


ITALIAN SHOES AT THE DUTCH LEATHER & SHOE MUSEUM

2000 | YVES JEAN CLAUDE | DESIGNED AND MANUFACTURED BY LUIGI PROVERBIO


2000 | Yves Jean Claude
Designed by Luigi Proverbio

Photograph: Irma Vivaldi

Although complete with a Yves Jean Claude insole label, these shoes, designed and produced by Luigi Proverbio, never came into production. They were on a shelf, next to wooden shapes, sketched patterns and craft tools.

I wanted to make a pair of sporty and comfortable shoes, not to market them, let's say for personal use. I started working on the shape and I found myself with an exaggerated toe box a bit like those I used to designed in the 1970s.

Luigi Proverbio
Maggio 2107



Sebbene complete di etichetta Yves Jean Claude, queste scarpe disegnate e prodotte da Luigi Proverbio non sono mai entrate in commercio. Stavano in bella vista su uno scaffale, accanto a forme di legno, modelli solo abbozzati e strumenti del mestiere. 

Volevo realizzare da tempo un paio di scarpe sportive e comode, non da commercializzare però, diciamo per uso personale. Ho cominciato lavorare sulla forma e mi sono ritrovato con una punta esagerata un po’ come quelle che disegnavo negli anni Settanta. 
Luigi Proverbio
Maggio 2107


2000 | Yves Jean Claude
Designed by Luigi Proverbio

Photograph: Irma Vivaldi

I’m quite happy about the result, however I didn’t want to ruin them so I left them in the closet. Every now and then I'm tempted to wear them, but then I put them back on shelf next to its wooden last.

Il risultato mi ha soddisfatto, poi però mi dispiaceva rovinarle e sono rimaste nel cassetto tutti questi anni. Ogni tanto ho la tentazione di metterle, ma poi le rimetto sullo scaffale accanto alla sua forma di legno.  
Luigi Proverbio
Maggio 2107


2000 | Yves Jean Claude
Designed by Luigi Proverbio

Photograph: Irma Vivaldi

2000 | Yves Jean Claude
Designed by Luigi Proverbio

Photograph: Irma Vivaldi


INTRODUCING LUIGI PROVERBIO
YVES JEAN CLAUDE/TANAGRA (CERRO MAGGIORE, MILAN)

1975 - 1976 | YVES JEAN CLAUDE
PROTOTYPE CLOGS DESIGNED BY LUIGI PROVERBIO



1970's | Yves Jean Claude
Designed by Luigi Proverbio

Sunday, July 9, 2017

1970's | YVES JEAN CLAUDE | PLATFORMS DESIGNED BY LUIGI PROVERBIO

Yves Jean Claude
Designed by Luigi Proverbio

Photograph: Irma Vivaldi


Tuesday, July 4, 2017

1975 - 1976 | YVES JEAN CLAUDE | PROTOTYPE CLOGS DESIGNED BY LUIGI PROVERBIO

1975 - 1976 | Yves Jean Claude
Designed by Luigi Proverbio

Photograph: Irma Vivaldi


Geta-inspired buckle clogs designed by Luigi Proverbio; mahogany sole produced by Bertolaja (Milan). The clog remained a prototype, deemed too extreme by different makers even in a time of far out designs.

Sandalo in legno con fibbia ispirato ai Geta giapponesi; suola in mogano prodotta da Bertolaja (Milano). Il sandalo non é mai entrato in produzione perché considerato “estremo” da diversi produttori in un periodo in cui design bizzarri abbondavano.
1975 - 1976 | Yves Jean Claude
Designed by Luigi Proverbio

Photograph: Irma Vivaldi



Four different vamps exists, including a sabot-like one, all from the personal archive of Luigi Proverbio.

Ne esistono quattro varianti, compreso un sabot, tutti dall’archivio personale di Luigi Proverbio.



1975 - 1976 | Yves Jean Claude
Designed by Luigi Proverbio

Photograph: Irma Vivaldi

1975 - 1976 | Yves Jean Claude
Designed by Luigi Proverbio

Photograph: Irma Vivaldi

1975 - 1976 | Yves Jean Claude
Designed by Luigi Proverbio

Photograph: Irma Vivaldi

1975 - 1976 | Yves Jean Claude | detail
Designed by Luigi Proverbio

Photograph: Irma Vivaldi


INTRODUCING LUIGI PROVERBIO
YVES JEAN CLAUDE/TANAGRA (CERRO MAGGIORE, MILAN)



1975 - 1976 | Yves Jean Claude | Sole detail
Designed by Luigi Proverbio

Photograph: Irma Vivaldi

Monday, July 3, 2017

CALZATURIFICIO ALPINO | VARESE | INDEX

1963 | Calzaturificio Alpino by Macchi & Cova
Varese

Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso magazine


ALPINO BY MACCHI & COVA
VARESE

1961

1962

1963

1963 | The Breathable Shoe

1964

1965


Calzaturificio Alpino by Macchi & Cova
Varese

Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso magazine