U P D A T E S

1961 | Albion | Florence

Source: Mod Bag

1921 - 1929 | MASKS BY ANDRE' PERUGIA
PART 2/3

1925 | ANDRE PERUGIA
EVENING SHOES AS SEEN IN VOGUE

1938 | HOTEL DU NORD
FEAT. ANDRE PERUGIA & ARLETTY

1950 | DELMAN
"TWENTY-FIRST CENTURY" GOLD SANDAL

1957 | SHARPENED SHOES
THE CYRANO LAST BY BETH & HERBERT LEVINE

1957 | JOSEPHI OF DELMAN
THE ROSE PETAL SANDAL

1961 | ALBION | FLORENCE
G-CLEF SANDAL

1967 | DAVID EVINS
FOR I.MILLER [HEELSTORY]

1967 | BETH & HERBERT LEVINE
CIRCLES OF SUEDE

INTRODUCING BETH & HERBERT LEVINE
PART 2

1961 | Albion | Florence

Source: Mod Bag

CUTTING EDGE DESIGN: THE RIPPLE SOLE

1949 | The "Ripple" Crepe Sole

Source: The Indianapolis News | October 7, 1949

GIRLS!
PENNEY'S HAS THEM. THE NEW AND EXCITING
RIPPLE SOLE LOAFERS 

The ripple sole is a smooth moulded rubber wrap on a conventional crepe sole, with an added feature Western buckle. Two fall colours. 

The Salem NewsSeptember 26, 1949

The term "Ripple sole" was already out there since the early 40's and usually meant ripple-edged sole used both for men's and women's and later for kids' (above image). However, retired Detroit shoe salesman Nathan Hack had a different idea in mind when he though of it.

1952 | Rippling Walking

Army boots & lady's shoe

Source: The Daily Argus Leader (Sioux Falls, South Dakota) - April 24, 1952

Nathan Hack said his new "ripple sole" is the first new departure in footwear since Julius Caesar put heels on shoes to enable his soldiers to walk farther. "And that was 2000 years ago" he said. 

Hack, past president of the Detroit Shoe Retailers Association, said the ripple sole is made of a rubber-leather composition. It is attached beneath the regular sole and "lengthens each stride six inches more than ordinary shoes", Hack said. 

The ripple sole consists of a series of waves running from the front of the heel to the tip of the toe. As the body leans forward, each successive ripple gives way so that when a step is completed one has the feeling that he is walking downhill. 

Courier Post

April 19, 1951 (Camden, New Jersey)

1953 | First actual application of the Ripple Sole

Source: Dayton Daily News (July 11, 1953)

Hack stumbled upon the ripple sole with the help of Dr. Lawrence E. Morehouse while searching for a shoe to cut down the hazards of broken legs and ankles among paratroopers. Jumps tests were taken and the results were successful to a certain degree. Still, while walking, the testers reported a "walking on air" feeling and that gave the two inventors the idea to further experiment the sole for a different use.

The ripple sole absorbed shock, stored energy and then aided in lifting the foot for the next step ... The inventors believe ripple soles will prove a blessing for postmen and policemen and others who spend most of the day on their feet. 

"I think the ripple sole will find a place in athletic events too" said Hatch. "At least it will relieve the strain on million of pairs of feet". 

The Daily Argus Leader (Sioux Falls, South Dakota)

April 24, 1952

1953 | The Ripple Sole for athletic shoes

Source: The Daily Herald (December 25, 1953)

The Ripple Sole forerunner was a convalescent boot he gave on a royalty-free basis to the U.S. Army in 1944. Nathan Hack called it his "contributions to the war effort" and his way to pay back a debt he owns to Uncle Sam.

The Ripple Sole gained momentum when two national magazines (Colliers and The Reader's Digest) run extensive articles about Hack's invention. The applications in standard footwear became apparent so he patented his idea (assigned to the Ripple Sole Corp.) and licensed it domestically to Nashua's Beebe Rubber Co. (New Hampshire) at the end of 1955.

1952 | The Resilient Shoe Soles by Nathan Hack

Filed July 14, 1952 - Granted June 14, 1955

Source: Google Patents

1956 | The Coward Shoe

Source: Daily News - December 4, 1956

Adopted by many producers (Levy's, Naturalizers, Palizzio, Florsheim, Sandler of Boston...), the Ripple Sole became a success (The Ripple That Became a Tidal Wave) and starting from 1957 a "Ripple Sole Week" was held in Tucson and lasted until the early 1970s. 

Nathan Hack died at 87, October 4, 1971 in Santa Monica, California. He came from Poland at the age of 16 and founded in Detroit the "Hack Shoe Company" in 1916. He later became president of The Greater Detroit Shoe Retailers Association and honorary life president of the Michigan Shoe Association. The photograph here below portrays Hack in 1966.

1966 | Nathan Hack and his Ripple Soles

Source: Detroit Free Press

RIPPLE OFF SOLES

(SIDE EFFECTS)

To rephrase Nathan Hack quote: the ripple sole will relieve the strain of dozen shoe designers looking for something old to be copied. And that happened straight away.

1967/1968 TITANO

Cerro Maggiore, Milan

1971 | V.I.P. (Verolanuova Industria Plastica)

Thermoplastic injection

Verolanuova, Brescia

"After much testing Adidas has come up with THE ripple sole: soft, durable, extremely comfortable and functional." 

FROM A 1972 ADIDAS ADVERTISEMENT. 

After much testing, THEIR ripple sole was used for the models ANTELOPE and ROM.

1988 | Patrick Cox

Source: Shoes by Colin McDowell

2010 | George Cox for Japan's BAL

Clockwise from top left:

2012 Buttero; 2013/2014 Ash; 2012 Hiroshi Tsubouchi; 2015 Paciotti

FRATTEGIANI INDEX

1956 | Frattegiani | Florence

Mosaic Heels

Photograph: JSS/Keystone 

THE SHOEMAKER FRATTEGIANI | FLORENCE
PART 1 - PART 2

1502 - 1949 | FRATTEGIANI
THE KIMO CONCEPT BEFORE THE KIMO/SPAGHETTI SANDAL

FRATTEGIANI HEELS
1952 - 1956 | CERAMIC, MOSAIC, CORK? YOU NAME IT

1952 | FRATTEGIANI
WEDGED SANDALS

1955 | FRATTEGIANI
AT THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART

1955 | FRATTEGIANI | FLORENCE

SUMMER SANDALS & HANDBAGS

1955 | Frattegiani Sandals

Source: The Los Angeles Times

1953 | FRATTEGIANI | SUNNY-LIVING FASHIONS: SO EASY… SO BREEZY

1953 | Raffia-covered wedges by Frattegiani (Florence)

Source: The Baltimore Sun - June 14, 1953

SUNNY LIVING FASHIONS. SO EASY ... SO BREAZY

"These are the sun dresses you’ll wear on vacations, on week-ends, to town or work with their jackets on:  

- Smooth cotton broadcloth with striped Everglaze cotton jacket, grey or navy, 12 or 20 an 14 ½ to 22 ½, 17.95 $

- Sheer cotton jacquard with marquisette yoke, rose, blue or green, 12 to 20, 22.95 " 

Source: Hochshild Kohn advertising | Baltimore Sun

So, pair then with your raffia-covered Frattegiani wedges and you won't be mistaken.

1953 | Sun dresses and Frattegiani wedges

Source: The Baltimore Sun - June 14, 1953

FRATTEGIANI (FLORENCE)
I N D E X

1953 | Raffia-covered wedges by Frattegiani (Florence) | Detail

Source: The Baltimore Sun - June 14, 1953

1952 - 1956 | FRATTEGIANI HEELS: CERAMIC, MOSAIC, CORK, YOU NAME IT.

Most exciting and unusual however, are the ceramic heels and trims. There's a divine black suede single-eyelet oxford-tie with a flat gold embossed ceramic heel. They’re soft as only antelope can be. Yes, they’re wearable and practical. (at least we hope so: we ordered them because they were irresistible!).

In the lower portion of the photograph are some resort shoes that are extremely popular at Capri, they have pastel ceramic flat heels and a ceramic flower on the straps. 

Edyth Radom

Source: Hartford Courant - August 7, 1952

1952 | Frattegiani

Ceramic Heels

Source: Hartford Courant - October 9, 1952

The black suede oxford had really caught the journalist's attention so that a few months later she pitched them again:

And we hope you’ll excuse the play on words, but way back in July we filed a story from Rome, Italy, on some of the most exciting shoes we’d seen in years, originals by Frattegiani custom-designers and creators of beautiful footwear. (…) 

Since our return, many have asked us “do you mean, real, honest-to-goodness ceramic? Pottery? And the anwer is "yes, honest-to-goodness ceramic heels". We’ve been waiting with the utmost impatience for them to arrive and at long last they did, just a few days ago, and we feature them because we thought you might like to see them. They’re soft as only antelope can be, conform to the foot and feel light as air.

So, please find them here below and share the excitement.

1952 | Frattegiani

Porcelain heel by Richard Ginori - Doccia, Florence

Source: Enrico Quinto and Paolo Tinarelli Collection

Ceramic heels were not a seasonal fad for Frattegiani, rather a mark of distinction dutifully noted over the years:

ROME MEMO ON FASHIONS 

Heels are admitted to Roman society - when they bear the mark of Frattegiani at 50, via Sistina. Most exclusive are his famous porcelain heels specially designed by Florentine craftsmen.

These platforms and spikes in pastel-toned embossed flowers are often matched by three-dimensional porcelain blossoms on the toe. Most sophisticated are the plain gold heels with incrusted star motifs on black ballet pumps.

Surfaces of other Frattegiani heels are inspired by artists who put on paint with a knife-rough shaggy slices of color that meet and combine in abstract shapes. The same technique in gold resembles crumpled lame set with semi-precious stones in every fold.

Monique
The Philadelphia Enquirer - November 25, 1954

Ceramic Heels by Frattegiani (detail)

At the Exhibition "Bellissima. L'Italia dell'alta moda 1945-1968"

Source: Rossa

Later Frattegiani pushed the concept even further with the following stilettos encrusted with tiny ceramic tiles.

1956 | Frattegiani | Florence

Mosaic Heels

Photograph: JSS/Keystone

The original caption of the above press photograph reads like this:

ARTISTIC SHOE HEELS MADE OF MOSAIC ...
NEW STYLES FROM ITALY 

Sep. 09, 1956 ­ Artistic Show heels made Mosaic new styles from Italy.. Frattegiani the famous Florentine shoe stylist­s the creator of these unique shoe heels which are made of colourful mosaic­ in true Italian Style.

And then there's cork...

1955 | Frattegiani | Florence

Kid, sailcloth and raffia sandals with cork soles

Today’s Fashion 

Raffia and velvet wide-circle skirts are being sold to Texas women who love the ordinary patio skirts. The Italian imports are made of alternate rows of straw and velvet ribbon, hand-embroidered with flowers or geometric emblems. 

Sling straw sandals by Frattegiani are bare on top and cork-heeled on bottom. They make nice compliments to the straw skirts. 

The Journal News | June 23, 1955
White Plains, New York

FRATTEGIANI (FLORENCE)
I N D E X

1955 | Frattegiani | Florence

Kid, sailcloth and raffia sandals with cork soles

THE SHOEMAKER FRATTEGIANI | FLORENCE | PART 2

Although almost forgotten today, Frattegiani was at the forefront of post-WW2 Italian handicrafts renaissance. The following text, written by costume journalist Edyth Radom, outlines Frattegiani's history starting from their humble beginning.

The art of handicraft is indigenous to foreign countries where beautiful embroidery, weaving, beadwork, the making of glass, lace and shoemaking are frequently family affairs, with many a craft-secret handed down from generation to generation, and kept inviolate through the years. 

Italy has always been known for her shoe craftsmen. Even in America, the little Italian “shoemaker around the corner” is likely to be a potential designer. Many a shoe dynasty has evolved through the elder member of a family who started with simple repairing, which gradually grew into custom designing and creating of fine footwear. 

1955 | Frattegiani | Florence

Kid, sailcloth and raffia sandals with cork soles

Source: Chicago Tribune, April 1955

Such is the story of Frattegiani, creators of some of the most beautiful, imaginative and refreshing shoes we have ever seen, in Europe or America. Fifty years ago, Frattegiani “padre” (senior) was a modest shoemaker in Florence. He had a penchant for design, and after 20 years worked up a custom business. Today he is retired, but his son and his daughter in their early 40’s, who worked with him and learned the craft, carry on the tradition of fabulous shoe designing.

1955 | Frattegiani | Florence

Kid, sailcloth and raffia sandals with cork soles

Source: Chicago Tribune, April 1955

The factory, with its 50 craftsmen, and another shop, are in Florence. But their shop in Rome, where they carry a minimum stock of all the designs on the line, is also a most fascinating place. Here you select your shoes, try them on, have an outline of your foot drawn while you loll in one of the ample lounge chairs covered in gay prints. 

There are small white wrought iron tables and shelves trimmed with colorful ceramic leaves to match the huge branched chandelier and the several branched floor lamps, these of all white wrought iron too, and gay with green, lavender, pink, blue, turquoise ceramic leaves.

1955 | Frattegiani

Florence

Source: Ars Sutoria

Sample shoes, divine straw handbags lined in leather, lie carelessly about in seeming abandon. The atmosphere is informal, relaxed and gay. And gaiety is the keynote of the shoes. You get the idea that shoes are a gay business, as indeed they are. They fit magnificently… seem to mold themselves to the foot, not the foot to the shoe.

Handmade of course, you also wonder about the streamlined look they have, remembering that most of the shoes you’ve seen in Italy have a flat, squat, broad, ungraceful look. The answer is that Frattegiani uses American sizes and lasts. All resemblance ends there.

Edith Radom

Hartford Courant Aug, 7, 1952

"Florentine Craftsmen Turn Shoemaking Into Fine Art" was the article's title and that alone sums it up nicely.

THE SHOEMAKER FRATTEGIANI
PART 1

FRATTEGIANI (FLORENCE)
I N D E X

1958 | Frattegiani | Florence

Source: MET

THE ARTICULATED SOLE | PART 3 | FEAT. BALLY OF SWITZERLAND

WOODEN SOLES SHOES ON LONDON MARKET

London, September 24, 1942

Wartime Fashion Note For Women.

Wooden soled shoes, decorated in gay colours and made comfortable and noiseless by leather or rubber innersoles and inserts, are now reaching the market and are much in demand.

Innersoles with which the new footwear is equipped fit the foot as snugly as ordinary shoes, the manufacturers assert, and the leather or rubber insets in the soles make them virtually noiseless.

Their manufacture is being promoted by the Board of Trade to save shoe leather.

The News (Paterson, New Jersey)

September 24, 1942

1944 | Bally Of Switzerland

Wooden Soled Clogs

Source: The Miami News - September 22, 1944

We wrote in details of the history of the articulated sole and its variation, the split platform, but now thanks to a recent acquisition by Tracy Dolphin - of Miss Rayne fame - we can match an actual model with the 1938 patent by Léandre Grégoire Renaldo and Joseph Sciroppo.

Above: Léandre Grégoire Renaldo/Joseph Sciroppo

Split platform paperwork (Filed December 8, 1938 - Granted June 26, 1939)

Below: Tracy Dolphin's Bally Of Switzerland

During WW2 the Perugia-style articulated sole and the split-platform coexisted and Bally Of Switzerland (as it was known back then) manufactured both; advertisements of the period 1941 - 1943 prove it and place this historical piece in that time frame.

Above: Léandre Grégoire Renaldo/Joseph Sciroppo

Split platform paperwork (Filed December 8, 1938 - Granted June 26, 1939)

Below: Tracy Dolphin's Bally Of Switzerland

As noted above, the articulated sole was a clever workaround to wartime leather scarcity and - besides Bally - all the major manufacturers produced it including I. Miller and Delman. Here below the articulated sole made by New York's Sterling Last Corporation (later to be assembled at the I.Miller factory) paired with Dophin's Bally.

Above: 1943 | articulated sole by Sterling Last Corporation

Source: Popular Science - June 1943

Below: Tracy Dolphin's Bally Of Switzerland

THE ARTICULATED SOLE/SPLIT PLATFORM TIMELINE

The Etruscan Sandal

IV/I century A.C.

1893

William Hall

1929

André Perugia

1938/1943

Salvatore Ferragamo

1941 - 1943 | Bally Of Switzerland: a museum piece.

Photograph: Tracy Dolphin

Source: Miss Rayne/Tracy Dolphin