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| 1986 | Hüsker Dü Promotional Tape Source: Hüsker Dü Database |
Wednesday, December 25, 2013
Sunday, December 22, 2013
2009 | MAURIZIO CATTELAN | UNTITLED
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2009 | UNTITLED | Polyurethane Rubber
51 x 38 x 18 cm / 20 5/64 x 15 x 7 3/32 inches
SOURCE: {MDC}
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1971 - 1973 | ELEANOR ANTIN
1976 | ANDREW NEWELL WYETH
1986 | ROMAN SIEGLER
Saturday, December 21, 2013
1952 | WRONG SHOES ANNABEL!
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| 1952 | Detail from "We're Not Married" Costume Test |
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1952 | Marilyn Monroe as Annabel Jones Norris
"We're Not Married!" Costume Test
Source: Il Ventaglio Di Piume
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1952 | Marilyn Monroe as Annabel Jones Norris
"We're Not Married!" Costume Test
George Zeno Collection
Source: Marilyn In Fashion - Running Press, 2012
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Tuesday, December 17, 2013
1914-1932 | DUCERF-SCAVINI GALLERY
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1914 | Pair of slippers by Ducerf Scavini
Linen, plain weave; embroidered in linen thread; with pearl buckles and bobbin lace rosettes;
ribbons, silk, plain weave; leather
Source: Art Institute Chicago
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1924 | Ducerf Scavini
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| 1924 | Ducerf Scavini |
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1929 | Ducerf Scavini et Fils
The original caption reads: white brided horsehair with red lizard decorations
Source: Vogue
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1930 | Ducerf-Scavini and Fils
Black antilope with decorations in patent leather
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| 1931 | White antilope and black leather by Ducerf Scavini Printed dress by Irène Dana |
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1932 | Sandals by Ducerf Scavini
Blouse and trousers by Yvonne Carette
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1932 | Sandals by Ducerf Scavini
Beach outfit by Mainbocher
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More models by the Italian/French brand Ducerf-Scavini can be seen at The Metropolitan Museum Of Art and Shoe Icons.
Thursday, December 12, 2013
SERENDIPITY | FORWARD TO THE PAST | EVERYTHING CHANGE, NOTHING CHANGE | 1906 > 1928 > 1933 > 1963 > 1971 > 2013
Images are from 1906, 1924, 1933, 1963 and 1971
Text from September 2013.
Text from September 2013.
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1906 | Croxton, Wood & Co.
Source: Vintage Ad Browser
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| 1928 | AURORE Source: hprints |
MARKETING 2.013
Le nuove scarpe spesso vengono presentate piegate, per dimostrare che sono morbide come guanti.
The new shoes are displayed folded to show they are as soft as a glove.
Maria Teresa Veneziani
(MICAM report | Corriere della Sera 15-09-2013)
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| 1933 | HEYRAUD-AURORE Source: hprints |
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Nerviano, Milan
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| 1971 | TITANO Cerro Maggiore, Milan |
Tuesday, December 10, 2013
INTRODUCING MELINDA BECK
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Melinda Beck | Untitled
Source: Melinda Beck
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Melinda Beck is an illustrator, animator and graphic designer based in Brooklyn, New York. She cut her teeth drawing artworks for hardcore/post hardcore bands like Bad Trip, Farside and Quicksand. Now her clients list include, among others, Nike, Time Magazine, NY Times and Neiman Marcus.
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Melinda Beck | Untitled
Source: Melinda Beck
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Melinda Beck | Abe's Peanut-Fancy Shoes (editorial)
Source: Melinda Beck
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Melinda Beck | Untitled
Source: Melinda Beck
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Sunday, December 8, 2013
Friday, December 6, 2013
1924 | DUCERF-SCAVINI & SONS | THE FIRST OPEN TOE PUMP (EVER)
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1924 | Ducerf-Scavini et fils ad, showing a very unusual open toe pump
Source: Vogue - French Edition
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In questo annuncio pubblicitario, trovato in un numero di Vogue del 1924, ci sono un paio di elementi che ci hanno incuriosito. Per prima cosa l'informazione "si parla italiano" in un annuncio comparso sulla stampa francese. E poi uno strano sandalo, che è la tipica calzatura "salomé" degli anni '20, ma a punta aperta e quindi con le dita dei piedi nude. Le calzature aperte si indossavano in spiaggia e quando, negli anni successivi, i sandali fecero la loro comparsa anche per la sera, le si portava con le calze. Nel '31 ad esempio, quando Perugia iniziò a proporre i suoi sandali da sera, studiò anche uno speciale paio di calze che tenevano l'alluce separato dalle altre dita del piede, come nelle muffole, per garantire la comodità dell'utilizzatrice, ma salvaguardare allo tempo stesso decoro ed eleganza.
Alcuni modelli di Ducerf-Scavini sono ancora conservati presso musei o da collezionisti (una panoramica QUI) , ma di questi insoliti sandali non sembra essere sopravvissuto alcun esemplare. Anche del marchio abbiamo trovato pochissime informazioni, non tutte esatte.
Wikipedia dice che a fondare la Società fu Jean-Baptiste Scavini, nato in Italia, a Ravenna (Emilia Romagna), nel 1837 e morto a Étretat nel 1914. Proprio nella località marittima di Étretat si dedicò a creare calzature per turisti benestanti; successivamente aprì una succursale a Parigi, in rue Anjou 8 e più tardi in rue Cambon 21.
Sua figlia Jeanne sposò un Ducerf, che continuò l'attività del suocero; il loro figlio, André Ducerf fu l'ultimo a gestire l'attività. Secondo Wikipedia la Ducerf Scavini venne venduta nel '36 ad André Perugia, in realtà l'atto di vendita é del 1934 ed il compratore un altro famoso bottier italiano, Nicolas Greco come risulta dagli Archivi Commerciali francesi (cfr. foto sottostante, terza riga).
Sua figlia Jeanne sposò un Ducerf, che continuò l'attività del suocero; il loro figlio, André Ducerf fu l'ultimo a gestire l'attività. Secondo Wikipedia la Ducerf Scavini venne venduta nel '36 ad André Perugia, in realtà l'atto di vendita é del 1934 ed il compratore un altro famoso bottier italiano, Nicolas Greco come risulta dagli Archivi Commerciali francesi (cfr. foto sottostante, terza riga).
We found this ad in a 1924 issue of Vogue France. Two uncommon elements stand out: the bottom line note “si parla italiano" (we speak Italian) and, before that, the never-seen-before open pump, exposing the naked toes.
For many years to come, elegant women used to wear stockings even with sandals, unless they were at the sea. A few years later (1931) Perugia studied a special kind of stockings: very thin and made like mittens (big toe separated from the others toes) to guarantee comfort, decorum and elegance at the same time.
For many years to come, elegant women used to wear stockings even with sandals, unless they were at the sea. A few years later (1931) Perugia studied a special kind of stockings: very thin and made like mittens (big toe separated from the others toes) to guarantee comfort, decorum and elegance at the same time.
Models by Ducerf Scavini found their way at museums and private collections, but none of these unusual open pumps can be found. In addition to that, not a great deal is known about the brand itself.
The Wikipedia entry says that the founder was Jean-Baptiste Scavini, who was born in 1837 in Ravenna, Italy, (Emilia Romagna region) and died in Étretat (1914). He developed his business in Étretat, a seaside resort for the wealthy, then opened a subsidiary in Paris, 8, rue Anjou (and later at 21, rue Cambon).
His daughter Jeanne married a Ducerf, who continued his father-in-law's business. According to Wikipedia, their son, André Ducerf, was the last to run the shoe-trading until 1936 when he sold the company to André Perugia.
This last piece of news, as a matter of fact, needs to be amended: André Ducerf indeed sold the company to a famous Italian bottier, but it was Nicolas Greco, not Perugia, and the year was 1934, not 1936 (see picture below, third row).
This last piece of news, as a matter of fact, needs to be amended: André Ducerf indeed sold the company to a famous Italian bottier, but it was Nicolas Greco, not Perugia, and the year was 1934, not 1936 (see picture below, third row).
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1934 | Societé Ducerf, Scavini et Fils sold to Nicolas Greco
From "Archives Commerciales de la France"
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Monday, December 2, 2013
1969 | ADRIANO SCIUCCATI'S TITANO | AS SEEN IN MODA IN PELLE MAGAZINE | PART 1
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| 1969 | Titano | Cerro Maggiore, Milan Source: Moda In Pelle magazine # 6, 1969 |
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| 1969 | Titano | Cerro Maggiore | detail Source: Moda In Pelle magazine # 6, 1969 |
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| 1969 | Titano | Cerro Maggiore Source: Zaffaroni Collection |
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| 1969 | Titano | Cerro Maggiore Source: Zaffaroni Collection |
The very same shoe, plus others from the same collection, were featured a few months later in Ars Sutoria magazine.
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| 1970 | Titano | Cerro Maggiore Source: Ars Sutoria magazine # 89 |
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| 1969 | Titano | Cerro Maggiore Source: Moda In Pelle magazine # 6, 1969 |
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| 1969 | Titano | Cerro Maggiore Source: Zaffaroni Collection |
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| 1969 | Titano | Cerro Maggiore Source: Zaffaroni Collection |
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| 1969 | Titano | Cerro Maggiore Source: Moda In Pelle magazine # 6, 1969 |
TITANO
1969 | Part 2
1969 | Part 2
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| 1969 | Titano | Cerro Maggiore Source: Moda In Pelle magazine # 6, 1969 |
Friday, November 29, 2013
1955 | ANDY WARHOL FOR PALIZZIO | PART 2/2
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1955 | Andy Warhol | Ladyslipper by Palizzio
Detail
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1955 | Andy Warhol | Shoe advertising drawing |
Ink And Pencil On Paper, Tape
Rhinestone by Palizzio
From The Luigino Rossi Collection
Source: Made In Warhol Catalog | Fondazione Art Museo Villa Ponti, 2007
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1955 | Andy Warhol | Shoe advertising drawing
Ink And Pencil On Paper, Tape
Ladyslipper by Palizzio
From The Luigino Rossi Collection
Source: Made In Warhol Catalog | Fondazione Art Museo Villa Ponti, 2007
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1955 | Andy Warhol | Shoe advertising drawing
Collage, Ink And Pencil On Paper, tape
Show Off by Palizzio
From The Luigino Rossi Collection
Source: Made In Warhol Catalog | Fondazione Art Museo Villa Ponti, 2007
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1955 | Andy Warhol | Shoe advertising drawing
Collage, Ink And Pencil On Paper, Tape
Sugar Cane Lizard by Palizzio
From The Luigino Rossi Collection
Source: Made In Warhol Catalog | Fondazione Art Museo Villa Ponti, 2007
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WARHOL FOR PALIZZIO
PART 1
ANDY WARHOL | POP ARTISAN
IT'S ALL ABOUT SHOES
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1955 | Andy Warhol | Shoe advertising drawing
Ink And Pencil On Paper, tape
Fashion to A "T" by Palizzio
From The Luigino Rossi Collection
Source: Made In Warhol Catalog | Fondazione Art Museo Villa Ponti, 2007
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Wednesday, November 27, 2013
1955 | ANDY WARHOL FOR PALIZZIO | PART 1/2
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| 1955 | Palizzio [Very New York] by Andy Warhol Detail |
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1955 | Andy Warhol | Shoe advertising drawing | Ink On Paper
Sari Silks by Palizzio
From The Luigino Rossi Collection
Source: Made In Warhol Catalog | Fondazione Art Museo Villa Ponti, 2007
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1955 | Andy Warhol | Shoe advertising drawing | Ink On Paper
New Straplings In Budding Colors By Palizzio
From The Luigino Rossi Collection
Source: Made In Warhol Catalog | Fondazione Art Museo Villa Ponti, 2007
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1955 | Andy Warhol | Shoe advertising drawing | Ink On Paper
The Quiet Ones by Palizzio
From The Luigino Rossi Collection
Source: Made In Warhol Catalog | Fondazione Art Museo Villa Ponti, 2007
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1955 | Andy Warhol | Shoe advertising drawing | Ink On Paper
The Swingers by Palizzio
From The Luigino Rossi Collection
Source: Made In Warhol Catalog | Fondazione Art Museo Villa Ponti, 2007
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WARHOL FOR PALIZZIO
PART 2
ANDY WARHOL | POP ARTISAN
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1955 | Andy Warhol | Shoe advertising drawing | Ink On Paper
Sandstorm by Palizzio
From The Luigino Rossi Collection
Source: Made In Warhol Catalog | Fondazione Art Museo Villa Ponti, 2007
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Monday, November 25, 2013
MADAME GANNA WALSKA AND HER PERUGIA SHOES COLLECTION AT LACMA
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Ganna Walska
Source: Lotusland
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Il LACMA - Los Angeles County Museum of Art - possiede una ventina di modelli di calzature di André Perugia, tra cui un paio a marchio Padova. Oltre alla serie ispirata ad Arlecchino, i modelli della collezione sono quasi tutti degli anni ’20, quando ancora Perugia era in Faubourg St Honoré, tranne un paio di modelli riconducibili agli anni ’30. Quasi tutti i modelli appartennero a Ganna Walska, nome d’arte di Hanna Puacz, e furono donati al museo dalla nipote di lei, Hania P. Tallmadge.
The LACMA - Los Angeles County Museum of Art owns two dozen of footwear models by André Perugia, including a few branded Padova. In addition to the Harlequin-inspired shoes, the models in the collection are almost all from the '20s (Perugia was still in Faubourg St Honoré) save for a couple of models from the '30s. Almost all the shoes belonged to Ganna Walska, stage name of Hanna Puacz, and were donated to the museum by her nephew, Hania P. Tallmadge.
The LACMA - Los Angeles County Museum of Art owns two dozen of footwear models by André Perugia, including a few branded Padova. In addition to the Harlequin-inspired shoes, the models in the collection are almost all from the '20s (Perugia was still in Faubourg St Honoré) save for a couple of models from the '30s. Almost all the shoes belonged to Ganna Walska, stage name of Hanna Puacz, and were donated to the museum by her nephew, Hania P. Tallmadge.
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| Ganna Walska's Perugia shoes at LACMA The Arlequin-inspired shoes Source: LACMA |
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Late 1920s | André Perugia
Silk brocade, leather
Source: LACMA
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Early 1930s | André Perugia
Silk velvet, silk, leather
Source: LACMA
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Collezionista di abiti, calzature, gioielli preziosissimi e mariti (si sposò ben 6 volte), Ganna Walska era nata nel 1887 a Brest-Litovsk, in Polonia, con umili origini. Grazie a una bellezza che aveva attirato, oltre ai mariti, anche le attenzioni dello Zar di Russia, riuscì a procurarsi un' immensa fortuna finanziaria ma non riuscì a coronare il sogno di una gloriosa carriera come cantante lirica e attrice. Nella sua autobiografia "Shocking Life", Elsa Schiaparelli, che all'inizio degli anni '20 era amica della Walska, raccontò il fiasco clamoroso nel debutto a Cuba nel ruolo di Fedora: la cantante fu addirittura costretta a fuggire di nascosto dal teatro abbandonando l'esibizione.
Le sue attenzioni si spostarono poi all’ambito botanico e la portarono a trasformare la tenuta Lotusland a Montecito, California in uno straordinario parco botanico ancora oggi esistente e visitabile. Nel 1943 raccontò la propria vita nell’autobiografia “Always Room At The Top” (R.R. Smith edition).
Collector of clothes, footwear, jewelry and husbands (she got married 6 times!), Ganna Walska was born in 1887 in a humble family from Brest-Litovsk, Poland. Gifted with a beauty that also attracted the attention of the Russia's Tsar, she was able to amass a huge financial fortune and yet could not realize her dream of a successful career as an opera singer/actress. In her autobiography “Shocking life”, Elsa Schiaparelli, who was a friend of Ganna at the beginning of the '20s, recalls the resounding fiasco in Cuba when Ganna sang in the role of Fedora. The singer was even forced to flee secretly from the theater.
Her attention then shifted to the botanical field: she bought the Lotusland estate in Montecito, California and turned it into an extraordinary botanical garden still existing today.
In 1943 she published her autobiography "Always Room At The Top" (R.R. Smith edition).
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1927 | “Divorçons” Perfume by Ganna Walska
Source: Cleopatra's Boudoir |
Please note the Parisian address: 2, Rue De La Paix, in a few years that will be Perugia's.
Gli sforzi finanziari per far diventare Ganna una grande cantante d’opera furono enormi e in buona parte sponsorizzati dal terzo marito Harold Fowler McCormick, con cui acquistò anche il Théâtre des Champs-Élysées a Parigi. L'impegno economico profuso e il netto insuccesso hanno fatto ipotizzare che Ganna Walska abbia ispirato il personaggio di Susan Alexander, la seconda moglie di Charles Foster Kane, nello strepitoso Quarto Potere di Orson Welles. All'idea probabilmente Ganna Walska avrebbe riso: il senso dell'umorismo non le mancava e quando creò col marito (sempre Harold Fowler McCormick) una linea di profumi, la battezzò “Divorçons” (Divorziamo). Brillante anche la risposta data ai cronisti che la assalivano per sapere perché McCormick l'aveva piantata in asso scendendo precipitosamente un attimo prima della partenza dal piroscafo New York-Parigi: “si può avere anche il più grande amore … e un mal di mare guasta tutto!”
The financial efforts to push Ganna were huge and primarily sponsored by third husband Harold Fowler McCormick. Together they also bought the Théâtre des Champs-Élysées in Paris to no avail. Investments and failures made someone think Ganna Walska as the source for the Susan Alexander character (second wife of Charles Foster Kane) from the amazing Citizen Kane by Orson Welles. She probably would have laughed about the connection; Ganna Walska had sense of humor: like when she created a line of perfumes called "Divorçons" (Let's divorse). Not to mention when she was asked about the grimy details of McCormick's split (he abandoned her on the steamer New York-Paris moments before leaving): she said to the reporters: "You can have the greatest love ... and a simple seasickness spoils everything!". Brilliant!
1921 - 1929 | MASKS BY ANDRE' PERUGIA
Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3
André Perugia
Bottier
I N D E X
The financial efforts to push Ganna were huge and primarily sponsored by third husband Harold Fowler McCormick. Together they also bought the Théâtre des Champs-Élysées in Paris to no avail. Investments and failures made someone think Ganna Walska as the source for the Susan Alexander character (second wife of Charles Foster Kane) from the amazing Citizen Kane by Orson Welles. She probably would have laughed about the connection; Ganna Walska had sense of humor: like when she created a line of perfumes called "Divorçons" (Let's divorse). Not to mention when she was asked about the grimy details of McCormick's split (he abandoned her on the steamer New York-Paris moments before leaving): she said to the reporters: "You can have the greatest love ... and a simple seasickness spoils everything!". Brilliant!
1921 - 1929 | MASKS BY ANDRE' PERUGIA
Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3
André Perugia
Bottier
I N D E X
"About Madame Walska" - Lotusland website
"Le Rappel" newspaper - Feb 3, 1926
"New York Times" August 22, 1996: "Garden of the Slightly Macabre" by Mitchell Owens
Vogue, French edition, Oct. 1927
Elsa Schiaparelli "Shocking Life"