1924 | ANDRE PERUGIA FOR PAUL POIRET | THE ARLEQUINADE SHOE COMPANION

1924 André Perugia
Drawing by Pierre Mourgue
Source: La Gazette du Bon Ton #10

È del 1923 la prima scarpa-maschera ispirata a Modigliani. Un tema - la maschera - sfruttato anche l'anno successivo quando Perugia ne ha proposto una variante con la serie dei modelli con decori a ritagli triangolari. Una citazione di Arlecchino, LA maschera italiana per eccellenza. Anche in questo caso un richiamo al mondo di Poiret. E di Picasso.

The first Modigliani-inspired mask shoe is dated 1923. Right after that Perugia kept exploiting the mask theme as the whole range of models decorated with triangular cut-outs is a reference to Harlequin, THE mask from the Italian Commedia dell’Arte and - at the same time - a nod to Poiret's world. And Picasso's.


1924 | Pablo Picasso | Paul En Arlequin
Portrait of artist's son
Source: Musée Picasso, Paris
1924 | Paul Poiret
Rosine Arlequinade Perfume Bottle
Source: Liveauctineers

1924 | André Perugia
From The Arlequinade Series
Source: Los Angeles County Museum Of Art (LACMA)

1924 | André Perugia
Detail of a full page titled "La Vogue" Des Chaussures de Perugia

Source: Vogue France | October 1, 1924


1956 | Perugia's Arlequinade (1924) highlighted | Detail
Source: Perugia - Poiret Shoe Ideas
1918 or 1956? (double page spread on Vogue magazine)

1920s | André Perugia
Four models with Harlequin mosaic pattern

Da sinistra:

- Tre modelli provenienti dalla collezione della cantante polacca Ganna Walska (pelle o seta con decorazioni metalliche, oggi conservati al Los Angeles County Museum Of Art - LACMA). Solo del primo a sinistra abbiamo la certezza della data (1924); gli altri due - pur del medesimo periodo - potrebbero essere stati realizzati immediatamente prima o immediatamente dopo (punta e tacco differenti, triangoli monocolori).

- André Perugia per Denise Poiret, moglie di Paul Poiret (pelle metallizzata argento - Source: Gazette-Druot). Idem c.s. per la datazione.



From left:

- Three models from the collection of Polish singer Ganna Walska (silk or leather with metallic decorations now at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art - LACMA). We can only vouch for the first one as from 1924: the two others - from the same period - could have been done a bit earlier or a bit later (different toes and heels, one-color triangular pattern).

- Made by Perugia for Denise Poiret, Paul Poiret's wife (Metallic silver leather | Source Douot). Date: same as above.



1921 - 1929 | MASKS BY ANDRE PERUGIA

PART 1

PART 2

PART 3


ANDRE PERUGIA
BOTTIER
I N D E X


FOOTNOTE

1920s | André Perugia For Denise Poiret
From: Denise Boulet-Poiret personal collection
Source: Gazette-Druot


We're happy to report that, from an estimation of $ 400 - 600, the Perugia shoe for Denise Poiret, auctioned by Druot, fetched $ 1,000. Not astonishing, but not bad either.


1924 | André Perugia For Denise Poiret
From: Druot Auction Catalog


 

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