Saturday, January 31, 2015

1939 | MEET LUCIENNE LEGRAND (MRS ANDRE PERUGIA)

In Paris in the thirties there was a great Italian shoemaker I was mad about — Perugia. His wife was a blonde so ravishing — she made Mistinguett kind of musty, if you know what I mean. She was behind a cash register on the Rue de la Paix: “Bonjour, madame” — you know the type. She was in there so he could keep an eye on her. He made me low-heeled shoes — the kind I still wear — when everyone else was in high heels.

Diana Vreeland
[From D.V. - Alfred A. Knopf, Inc., New York - 1984]

1939 | André Perugia and Lucienne Legrand
Photograph by François Kollar
Source: Ministère de la Culture Médiathèque du Patrimoine

Former stylist and silent movie star, Lucienne Legrand was André Perugia's second wife even though the marriage was later annulled (It's a very long story and not a pleasant one for the celebrated bottier). Anyway, the shoe in her hand is a PADOVA model designed by Perugia in 1938 better shown here below from the advertisement taken from L'Officiel de la Mode. 


1938 | Padova designed by André Perugia | DETAIL
Black kid and gold
1938 | Padova designed by André Perugia
Source: L'Officiel de la Mode #199

The sole's sandal in Perugia's hand belong to the 1938 Padova collection he designed for Elsa Schiaparelli (see ad below: the shoe at the bottom).


1939 | André Perugia and Lucienne Legrand
Photograph by François Kollar
Source: Ministère de la Culture Médiathèque du Patrimoine


Original caption: 

1938 - A selection of shoes designed by Andre Perugia of Padova for Schiaparelli. 
From top: striped kid straps with a cork platform heel, a satin high heeled sandal lined with kid, a kinked sole sandal, a high and mighty sole, an elevated suede moccasin and a kinked sole sandal with removable lacings.


1938 | Perugia/PADOVA
for Elsa Schiaparelli

1938 | André Perugia
Bicolor Richelieu in black felt with red inserts in kidskin. 
Black heel and double platform, lacquered in black and red.
Shoe sold at a Drouot auction in 2006. 








ANDRE PERUGIA
D O S S I E R


1930 | Rue de la Paix, Paris
Painting by Canella

Thursday, January 29, 2015

1926 | ANDRE' PERUGIA & I.MILLER | THE EUCLID GEOMETRIC PUMPS

The Euclid Geometric! One side different from the other! Whimsically adorned with diamonds, triangles, lightning zigzags in vivid, effective contrasts! The accepted mode of Paris - perfected by I.Miller - for the fashionable Modernist gowns"

1926 | I.Miller Advertisement


1926 | Euclid Geometric Pumps by André Perugia for I.Miller AT FIT
Green suede, gold metallic painted leather

The Euclidean model was probably the beginning of a lasting collaboration between André Perugia and the American company I.Miller. The model above comes from the collection of The Museum at FIT, New York.


1926 | André Perugia for I.Miller
Ankle strap | The Euclid Geometric
Source: Vogue June 1, 1926

1926 | André Perugia
Ankle strap | Cubist design in silver and white painted leather 
Source: Le Figaro - April 30, 1926


ANDRE PERUGIA


1930 - 1932 | 1926 | André Perugia
Data sheet at FIT




FOOTNOTE
[THREE YEARS LATER]

OF COURSE
In his autobiography, Ferragamo writes, “How else can I explain my sense of design? I do not have to search for styles. When I need new ones I select from those that present themselves to my mind as I select an apple from the laden dish upon my table.” With these words, the creative would appear to deny any source of inspiration, any reference to anything but his own mind. 
From: Salvatore Ferragamo | Inspiration And Vision
Exhibition at Museo Salvatore Ferragamo May 27, 2011 - March 12, 2012


1929 | Salvatore Ferragamo
Vertical ZigZAg design | Patent granted November 1929
Source: Archivi della Moda del Nocevento

2011 | Replica of the above patent for the exhibition
Salvatore Ferragamo | Inspiration And Vision
Museo Salvatore Ferragamo May 27, 2011 - March 12, 2012

1930 | Moderne
Lucio Venna For Ferragamo




1926 | André Perugia
Ankle strap | The Euclid Geometric | Silver and white painted leather
Source: Le Figaro - April 30, 1926

Source: Vogue June 1, 1926

Tuesday, January 27, 2015

HOLOCAUST MEMORIAL DAY 2015

Hinda Cohen’s shoe, with the year of her deportation etched in the bottom
Artifact Collection, Yad Vashem


The toddler Hinda Cohen was deported to Auschwitz in a children’s aktion (action, or round-up) that occurred in the Kovno Ghetto, on March 27, 1944. Hinda was murdered in Auschwitz.
When Hinda was taken from her bed to be deported to Auschwitz, her shoe was left behind. Upon finding it, her father etched the date on the shoe’s sole. Her parents, Dov and Zipora Cohen, survived the war. They kept their daughter’s shoe, the pair of mittens that Zipora had sewn for her from scraps of material, and her birth certificate, until they died.



To remember:

PRIMO LEVI [1919-1987] | SURVIVAL IN AUSCHWITZ

THE FOOTPRINTS FOR HOPE PROJECT

1991 | SUSANNA PIERATZKI | BIRTH

2005 | GYULA PAUER & CAN TOGAY | SHOES ON THE DANUBE PROMENADE

Monday, January 26, 2015

TACCHIFICIO ELITE | LEGNANO, MILAN | FEAT. ALDO SACCHETTI


1938 | Tacchificio Elite | Legnano, Milan
Source: Uric magazine

Il tacchificio Elite appartiene alla storia calzaturiera della SS33 e fu la "prima fabbrica brevettata" per la produzione di tacchi in legno per calzature, come ci teneva molto a segnalare agli esordi. La nascita di questa azienda risale al primo dopoguerra del secolo scorso, come "Ditta Fratelli Castellini" a Legnano. La ditta inizialmente aveva sede in via Flora a Legnano e poi si spostò sul Sempione. Nel 1924 fu depositato il marchio Elite, destinato a durare quasi invariato molto a lungo.

The heel manufacturer Elite is an integral part of the SS 33 shoe history since the very beginning:  the "first trademarked wooden heel factory" as they put it. The Elite birth dates back to the first post-war period of the last century, as "Ditta Fratelli Castellini" in Legnano, Milan. The company set its headquarters in Via Flora, Legnano and then moved along the Simplon road. The Elite logo was filed in 1924 and remained almost unchanged for a long time.


1924 | Elite first logo
Source: Archivio Centrale dello Stato

Negli anni '70 Salvatore Deodato collaborò con questo tacchificio, sviluppando con loro alcune delle sue originali creazioni e così pure Aldo Sacchetti. Una foto esposta alla mostra Affetti personali. Storie di donne e di moda a Palazzo Madama a Torino, raffigura il laboratorio di Aldo Sacchetti in via Pietro Micca a Torino con Massimo, uno dei suoi lavoranti. Accanto a lui, uno scatolone del Tacchificio. Un'altra foto mostra i tipici tacchi decorati magistralmente nel laboratorio di Aldo Sacchetti.

In the 70s Salvatore Deodato worked alongside Elite developing some of his original creations; so did Aldo Sacchetti. A photo on display at the exhibition Affetti personali. Storie di donne e di moda (Palazzo Madama, Turin) shows the Aldo Sacchetti workshop in Via Pietro Micca, Turin, with his employee Massimo beside an Elite box; another photo shows the typical heels masterfully decorated in the turinese workshop.


1980s | A photo from the workshop of Aldo Sacchetti
Source: Affetti Personali Exhibition | Palazzo Madama Turin

1980s | Workshop of Aldo Sacchetti - detail
Source: Affetti Personali Exhibition | Palazzo Madama Turin

1980s | A window in Aldo Sacchetti's shop | Turin - Via Pietro Micca, 17
Some of the pictured models are now at the Footwear Museum of Vigevano



ALDO SACCHETTI
Turin
I N D E X

Saturday, January 24, 2015

1955 | CARLOTTI | BOLOGNA

1955 | E. Carlotti
Bologna
Source: Ars Sutoria

1955 | E. Carlotti
Bologna
Source: Ars Sutoria

1955 | E. Carlotti
Bologna
Source: Ars Sutoria

1955 | E. Carlotti
Bologna
Source: Ars Sutoria

Thursday, January 22, 2015

1961 VACCARI | BOLOGNA | PART 2

1961 | VACCARI
XV Bologna Fashion Footwear Exhibition
Source: Ars Sutoria

1961 | VACCARI
XV Bologna Fashion Footwear Exhibition
Source: Ars Sutoria


VACCARI | BOLOGNA
1961 PART 1

VACCARI
I N D E X




1961 | VACCARI
XV Bologna Fashion Footwear Exhibition
Source: Ars Sutoria

Tuesday, January 20, 2015

1962 | ERCO | VIGEVANO | FEATURING STELLA DIZZY

1962 | ERCO by Ermenegildo Comelli
Vigevano

1962 | ERCO | Vigevano
Italian melodic singer Stella Dizzy (née Maristella Ida Di Cunzolo)

1962 | ERCO by Ermenegildo Comelli
Vigevano

1962 | ERCO by Ermenegildo Comelli
Vigevano

1962 | ERCO | Vigevano
Italian melodic singer Stella Dizzy

1962 | ERCO by Ermenegildo Comelli
Vigevano

1962 | ERCO by Ermenegildo Comelli
Vigevano

1962 | ERCO by Ermenegildo Comelli
Vigevano

1962 | ERCO | Vigevano
Italian melodic singer Stella Dizzy

1962 | Stella Dizzy At Erco's
With Ermenegildo's son BRUNO (right) and designer Carlo Corticelli (center)

ERCO | Vigevano
I N D E X

Sunday, January 18, 2015

1961 | ERCO | VIGEVANO | PART 2

1961 | ERCO by Ermenegildo Comelli
Vigevano

1961 | ERCO by Ermenegildo Comelli
Vigevano

1961 | ERCO by Ermenegildo Comelli
Vigevano

1961 | ERCO by Ermenegildo Comelli
Vigevano

ERCO | Vigevano
I N D E X

Friday, January 16, 2015

1966 | ALDROVANDI | VIGEVANO | PART 2

1966 | Aldrovandi
Vigevano

1966 | Aldrovandi
Vigevano

1966 | Aldrovandi
Vigevano

1966 | Aldrovandi
Vigevano

ALDROVANDI | Vigevano
I N D E X

Monday, January 12, 2015

1935 - 2015 | GIOVANNI VIGNATI | IN MEMORIAM

1958 | Parabiago, Milan | Rapizzi school
Grand opening of the 4th Parabiago Footwear Exhibition

Il 7 gennaio è morto a Parabiago uno dei modellisti più rappresentativi del distretto parabiaghese (SS33) dal dopoguerra ad oggi. Giovanni Vignati, classe 1935, avendo collaborato per tanti anni con diverse aziende e soprattutto con molti nomi della moda calzaturiera. Figlio di calzolai, studiò da modellista alla scuola professionale Maggiolini di Parabiago, e iniziò a lavorare per diverse aziende calzaturiere negli anni ’50, nel periodo del loro boom, partecipando anche alle rassegne di settore che in quegli anni venivano organizzate a Parabiago.

Dagli anni ’60 fu per due decenni direttore della produzione del calzaturificio “Cele Ferrario” e successivamente del “Bol Dor” di San Lorenzo. Divenne poi socio e modellista per il Calzaturificio Covi Moda e infine professionista in proprio. Fra le altre collaborazioni anche il calzaturificio Ducale e soprattuto i numerosi stilisti, per cui curò lo sviluppo dei modelli: Heather Williams, Nicole Brundage, Olivia Morris, Masaki Matsushima e molti altri.


On January 7, Giovanni Vignati died in Parabiago. He was one of most distinguished designer of the Parabiago district (SS33). Born in 1935, he worked with many shoe factories and as many fashion footwear brands. Son of shoemakers, he studied to became "modellista" at the Maggiolini footwear school of Parabiago and started working right away for local footwear companies in the '50s - the district's salad days - also attending the national footwear exhibitions then held in Parabiago, Milan.

In the '60s he became director of production for the shoe factory "Cele Ferrario" - a two-decade stint - and later joined the shoemaker "Bol Dor" of San Lorenzo. After that he teamed up with the shoemaker Covi Moda (also as a designer) and eventually worked as a free agent. Among others, he lent his expertise to the shoemaker Ducale and to many designers such as Heather Williams, Nicole Brundage, Olivia Morris, Masaki Matsushima.

Saturday, January 10, 2015

1964 | AZZURRA | AREZZO


1964 | Azzurra
Arezzo

1964 | Azzurra
Arezzo

1964 | Azzurra
Arezzo

1964 | Azzurra
Arezzo

1964 | Azzurra
Arezzo

1964 | Azzurra
Arezzo


1969
AZZURRA
Arezzo