1956 | ANDRE PERUGIA | THE CAPE

1956 | André Perugia | The Cape

Source: Chicago Tribune

FAMED SHOE DESIGNER WILL DISPLAY HIS OLD AND NEW CREATIONS HERE 

A collection of shoes, including some originally designed by André Perugia for Paul Poiret, famed Paris couturier of the World War I period, will be presented by Perugia in the I.Miller Shoe department at Carson Pirie Scott & Co. tomorrow… 

… the Cape, the current costume love of Paris, is interpreted in a soft wrapped silhouette with a flaring flange like throat. This shoe introduces a new material called Gaslight, sheer as a cobweb but strong as steel. 

Evelyn Livingstone
Chicago Tribune | September 26, 1956

1956 | Perugia's The Cape highlighted | Detail

Source: Perugia-Poiret Shoe Ideas - 1918 or 1956? (2 page spread on Vogue magazine)

ANDRE PERUGIA
D O S S I E R

1930's | 1956 | André Perugia | The Cape

Source: Shoes by Linda O'Keeffe (Workman Publishing, 1996)

U P D A T E S

CA. 1940 | UMBO (Otto Umbehr - 1902 - 1980)

Mystische Strasse (Fifth Avenue, NY)

Source: Christies

MADAME JULIENNE
FEMME BOTTIER

GALILEO BARLACCHI
FLORENCE

SMART FOOTWEAR FOR THE WOMAN WHO KNOWS
PARADISE BOOTERY | A NEW YORK LANDMARK

1952 | SALVATORE CANGEMI V/S SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
CAGE AND BIRDCAGE HEELS

1955-1963 | VIBELSPORT
THE GUANTO [GLOVE] SHOES

1957/1963 | MORRES (VIGEVANO)
LIFE BEFORE MORESCHI

1965 | ROGER VIVIER
DESIGN FOR A BUCKLED SHOE

1973 | SALVATORE DEODATO
FOR ROMEA AND HEEL MAKER VALE

1989 - 1993 | ROBERT GOBER
UNTITLED

OTTORINO BOSSI & PEGABO | PART 3
VIGEVANO

1927 | UMBO

Untitled (Slippers)

1927 | Walter Ruttman & UMBO

From Berlin - Symphony Of A City

Source: Sue Bond

1962 | SALVATORE DEODATO FOR AZZURRA | AREZZO | THE MOST PRECIOUS SANDAL IN THE WORLD

Salvatore Deodato's son, Michelangelo, started his search from a yellowing newspaper clipping without the date nor the name of the paper. His father made the most precious shoe in the world (for a while at least) and he wanted to know more. To make a long story short, after searching thru microfilms from three different major Italian newspapers he finally found it. That's Phase 1.

September 1, 1962 | La Nazione daily

The Most precious shoe in the world

Courtesy: Michelangelo Deodato

Showcased at the 2nd Florence Footwear Exhibition at Palazzo Vecchio, the sandal called "Rosa di Sogno" got noticed by a Boston shoe buyer/collector the day before the grand opening and bought it on the spot. The news made headlines because of the astounding sell price: 4,000,000 liras (roughly, just short of € 50,000 today).

September 1, 1962 | La Nazione daily | detail

Azzurra'a owner Battello Lucioli (L) and Salvatore Deodato

Courtesy: Michelangelo Deodato

The evening sandal sports a paper-thin black patented sole, purple cloth upper with a silver thread criss-crossing at the middle where a black satin rose hosts a 6 carat diamond. Salvatore Deodato designed the sandal (a sample, not a pair) for Arezzo's shoemaker Azzurra - owned by Mr. Battello Lucioli - where he served as both director and designer.

1962 | Azzurra | Rosa di Sogno
Designed by Salvatore Deodato
Source: URIC magazine # 133 (Summer/Winter 1962)

Now Phase 2: Michelangelo Deodato would like to find the anonymous collector from Boston - or his heirs - in order to buy back the shoe. As far out as it seems, if you happen to know someone who know someone else PLEASE get in touch and we'll forward the info to Michelangelo.

A 4,000,000 liras shoe bought at the

Florence Footwear Exhibition opened by Prime Minister Fanfani

Source: La Stampa daily | September 1, 1962

1973 | SALVATORE DEODATO
FOR ROMEA AND HEEL MAKER VALE

1973 | SALVATORE DEODATO FOR ROMEA
AT THE WALKER ART GALLERY | LIVERPOOL

1929 | ANDRE PERUGIA | THE MODEL RÊVERIE AT FIT

1929 | André Perugia | The model Rêverie at FIT

Museum at Fashion Institute of Technology

T-strap | Beige leather with polychrome floral applique.

© Copyright 2012 The Museum at FIT

ANDRE PERUGIA | STRANGER THAN FICTION

André Perugia, like other golden names/brands such as Beth Levine or David Evins, ended its course when he retired. No corporate acquisitions, no rebranding, no nothing. Which is good in a way. On the other end, for such brilliant designs, pictures on Instagram/Pinterest/Your-Favorite-Social-Network-Here with the ubiquitous "Ooohhh, I Looove It" comment doesn't make it. So it is welcomed when our designer of choice shows up unexpected in novels: you know he's there because he's the most-liked and not as a product placement.

André Perugia shoe box

Source: Miss Glitzy

Here's a small collection of André Perugia's cameo appearances: in Anna Davis' "The Shoe Queen" Perugia shoes are like supporting actors, but our favorite line comes from "Murder At The Luther" by Kathleen Kaska. Enjoy.

She was standing at the door, hands on her hips; her size-five foot tapping rapidly on the cement floor. 

I looked down at her stylish footwear. "Ferragamo?" I asked. 

"No, silly. André Perugia. No one can make a stiletto like Perugia. 

Why didn't you call me?" 

Kathleen Kaska
Murder At The Luther (Salvo Press, 2010)

1956 | André Perugia for I. Miller

Source: LIFE magazine

Her unique court shoes by André Perugia, the Paris shoe designer - impossibly high Spanish heels and pointy toes; 

the softest leather overlaid with a mass of brilliantly colored and intricately worked triangles in silk, suede and brocade, inspired, so Perugia said, by Matisse's paintings, and worn especially to impress Paolo Zachari - were drenched and mud-sputtered. 

Outraged, she stepped forward, opening her mouth to shout something, but the car was already disappearing down a side street. 

Anna Davis

The Shoe Queen (Gallery Books, 2007)

Mid-twenties | André Perugia

Silk satin and leather

From the Collection of Mme. Ganna Walska

Source: LACMA (Los Angeles County Museum of Art)

And, straightening, Genevieve found she was talking to (cobbler) Paolo Zachari. 

"They're André Perugia, aren't they? he said, looking amused. "So you've certainly overpaid." 

And then he removed his overcoat and sat down at her table without even asking permission to join her. 

Anna Davis

The Shoe Queen (Gallery Books, 2007)

Enzel | Designed by André Perugia

Source: Shoe Icons

Rain fell on the golden velvet wrap with the sumptuous Australian opossum edgings, on the André Perugia gold kid shoes. Rain fell on the heavily jeweled satin headband and the Lina Cavalieri coiffure.

Anna Davis
The Shoe Queen (Gallery Books, 2007)

CA. 1931 | André Perugia

Source: Metropolitan Museum of Art

Trying to contain herself, Brenna chuckled when she glanced downward and saw the pair of high priced André Perugia shoes Carolyn Bryce wore. Her mother's impeccable was appropriate if she were attending a formal dinner. 

Barb Dimich

SEAL Fate (ebook, 2012)

1933 | André Perugia | T-strap owned by Ortense Lenore Mitchell

Source: Transatlantic Modernities

Once we arrived at the love nest, I went into bathroom to change. I yanked on a sturdy girdle - steel-boned, not rubber, thanks very much - a black silk dress, and my favorite black cloche. The hat hid my beaver-lodge hair nicely. 

I pulled on stockings, buckled on my highest André Perugia T-straps, brushed my teeth, and touched up my lipstick. 

Maia Chance
Come Hell or Highball. A Mystery (Minotaur Books, 2015)

1953 | André Perugia patent

Source: Google Patents

I took off my André Perugia made-to-order patent leather ballerinas, then my the pearl necklace, I'll roll my fingers on it and put it gently on the small wooden table. I lay down and pull my knees up to my chest. At home no one's waiting for me. 

Stephanie des Horts

La Panthère (JC Lattès, 2010)

The last one is a bit cryptic out of context; here anyway for the sake of it.

"Chanel can't keep you alive forever!" Schiaparelli floats up off the floorboards. André Perugia designed her shoes. 

"Your perfume will fade!" she says, suspended like a chandelier. A chandelier in a Mirror Maze? It's overkill! 

Derek McCormack

The Show That Smells (ECW Press, 2008)

ANDRE PERUGIA
D O S S I E R

SHOES & BOOKS

[FEAT. HEMINGWAY, SHAKESPEARE, SARAMAGO, RANKIN, GALEANO ...]

Book covers in chronological order with the text

Left to right, top to bottom

1920 | ANDRE PERUGIA | THE MODEL AUTOMNE #2

1923 | André Perugia | The model Automne #2 | Detail

Drawing by Claire Avery

Source: Vogue France | January 7, 1923

Perugia's Automne #2 patent was filed September 20, 1920 and granted almost one year later (August 9, 1921). The Musèe de la Chaussure de Romans dates the model 1923 and it is probably due to the late appearance in Vogue (January 1923). Unusual but not unprecedented.

Just one question: where's Automne #1?

1920 | André Perugia | The model Automne #2

Double-buttoned, cutaway black leather shoe

Photograph: Christophe Villard

© Romans, Musée international de la Chaussure

1920 | André Perugia | The model Automne #2 patent

Filed September 20, 1920 | Granted August 9, 1921

Source: INPI (Institute National de la Propriété Industrielle - France)

1920 | André Perugia | The model Automne #2 | Insole Label

Photograph: Christophe Villard

© Romans, Musée international de la Chaussure

ANDRE PERUGIA
D O S S I E R

Vogue France | January 7, 1923

André Perugia shoes: to reveal a finely shod foot

Drawing by Claire Avery

Source: Vogue

1920 | ANDRE PERUGIA | THE MODEL CAPRICE

André Perugia

1920 | The Model CAPRICE

Circa 1923 | unnamed model

At the Bata Shoe Museum | Toronto

Source: flickriver Sheila Ellen

1920 | André Perugia | The model Caprice

Filed November 29, 1920 | Granted August 9, 1921

Source: INPI (Institute National de la Propriété Industrielle - France)

1922 | André Perugia | The model Caprice

As barely seen in Vogue

Source: Vogue France, December

A delicate work of decorative motifs in multicolored enamel augments the originality of this black patent shoe. 

Source: Vogue | December 1922

Musée de Romans | CAROLINE POISSONIER (maintenance expert)

takes great care with André Perugia shoes including the model Caprice

[Front row, first from right]

Source: Ville Romans

Next to the model CAPRICE - on the first photograph - there is an unnamed model probably from the same collection of the ATHENIEN (brocade floral pattern), about which they said:

The last word in fashion is the black satin evening slipper with pointed vamp embroidered in frail eighteenth century flowers. It is worn with rose beige chiffon stockings.  

Anne Rittenhouse
The Mail | May 17, 1924

No other photographs and/or drawings are available, but the model was featured on the well known 2-page spread in Vogue back in 1956.

André Perugia | Green Kid And Brocade combined | Detail

Source: Perugia-Poiret Shoe Ideas - 1918 or 1956? (2 page spread on Vogue magazine, 1956)

ANDRE PERUGIA
D O S S I E R

André Perugia | Shoe tree detail

© Musée international de la Chaussure Romans

1934 - 1935 | MRS. SOPHIE GIMBEL WEARS ANDRE PERUGIA'S PADOVA

“You don’t have to have lots of clothes in order to be chic. But you most certainly have to have the right clothes.” 

Sophie Gimbel, American designer

(The Courier News, November 13, 1940)

1935, Jan 13 | Mr. and Mrs. Adam Gimbel
Photgraphed at Palm Beach, Fla., where they are enjoying a winter sojourn
Source: © Bettmann/CORBIS

Mrs. Sophie Gimbel, born Sophie Haas, was one of the world's most influential designers in the Thirties: she was head of the custom-made department of Saks Fifth Avenue and her husband Adam was president of the same enterprise.

André Perugia was their best shoe designer: in 1933 he had created the brand Padova, which was exclusively distributed within the U.S by Saks.

If truth be told, we should have added a question mark to the title. In the photograph above Mrs Sophie Gimbel wears a sandal that looks like a Perugia sandal; maybe it was another variation, maybe not. What we do know is that the sandal was available in two versions (at least): one with a flat sole, the other with an upward tip oriental-style (shown below).

1935 | Three Models designed by André Perugia for his own brand Padova

Source: Le Modes magazine

Apparently these three Padova models are not to be found anywhere, so just for now, the André Perugia patents would do it. Anyway, about the sandal here below, you are in for a little surprise .

1934 | André Perugia - Padova
Patent USD92201, Filed March 19 | Granted May 8
Source: Google Patents

1934 | Edward Steichen

Model Wearing (PADOVA) Sandals | DETAIL

Source: Vogue June 1, 1934 | © Condé Nast Publications

Can't be mistaken: it'a a PADOVA sandal. Check out all the details and you'll see for yourself: bicolor sole, the mini studs, the buckle and the little triangular leather strip on the neck of the foot. We took the liberty to publish the photo rotated by 90° degrees clockwise, so we apologize to Mr. Steichen.

1934 | Edward Steichen

Model Wearing (PADOVA) Sandals | DETAIL

Source: Vogue July, 1934 | © Condé Nast Publications

The photo was originally published as a full page spread with only the last name of the photographer credited, so two months later Vogue France run an errata (poorly noticed):

We apologize for not indicating that these interesting sandals, published on the July issue, page 20, were Padova creations (André Perugia, Director). These are modernized gladiator sandals in red kid or white suede. The ingenious buckle makes a perfect fit.

1934 | Vogue Magazine (France) | Errata Corrige

Source: Vogue Magazine, September 1934

1934 | André Perugia - Padova

Patent USD92202, Filed March 19 | Granted May 8
Source: Google Patents

1935 | Custom Footwear By PADOVA | Paris

All designed by André Perugia

Source: Shoe Icons

ANDRE PERUGIA
D O S S I E R

1934 | André Perugia - Padova

Patent USD91728, Filed February 9 | Granted March 13
Source: Google Patents

1947 | Luca Librando | Milan

Creative director at

URIC Magazine

LEE KRASNER'S BOOTS AT THE POLLOCK STUDIO | LONG ISLAND

Lee Krasner's Boots

Photograph: Robyn Lea

Source: The Splendid Table

Lee Krasner's Boots

Unknown photographer

Source: POLLOCK KRASNER House & Study Center

1988 | Evelyn Hofer

Lee Krasner’s Shoes, Pollock Studio, Long Island, N.Y.

Source: Lens/The New York Times

Hilton Kramer once called Evelyn Hofer “the most famous unknown photographer in America,” a title she did not dispute. To her, the work was more important than the artist. 

David Gonzalez

Lens - The New York Times | April 30, 2012

SHOES & ART
1832 - 2009

CA. 1949 | Jackson Pollock and Lee Krasner

Photograph: Lawrence Larkin

Source: POLLOCK KRASNER House & Study Center

1932-33 | ONE MODEL, TWO LADIES AND 'THE' BOTTIER

January 1933 | L'Officiel de la Mode

Shoes by Perugia, Hellstern and Marouf

Source: L'Officiel de la Mode

Things are looking GOOD if you find an unexpected pair of shoes; GREAT if you find two, and BINGO if you match them with a publication.

The first pair (below) of the highlighted Andrè Perugia shoe is kept at Villa La Pietra in Florence and was owned by Hortense Lenore Mitchell (1871-1962). She was the wealthy daughter of William Hamilton Mitchell, founder of the Illinois Trust and Savings bank in Chicago. In 1903 she married Arthur Mario Acton and they moved into Villa La Pietra, on the via Bolognese in Florence.

The second pair is now at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London once owned by Lady Dovercourt.

CASH ONLY

I'm going to take stock of my blessings and tell you what I'm thankful for. It always puts things in perspective. I'm thankful for a pair of shoes that really feel good on my feet; I like my shoes. 

Johnny Cash
The Autobiography (Harper Paperbacks, 1997)

Many Johnny Cash fans remember the 1981 ACME commercial ad (ACME. The first name in boots that last), still when it came to shoes and boots the Man In Black was a made to order kind of guy.

Johnny Cash | Wooden lasts by Pasquale Di Fabrizio

Source: Julien's Auctions | Sold for $ 750

JOHNNY CASH SHOE MOLD
A shoe mold made for Johnny Cash by Di Fabrizio [See below]. The molds, labeled “Johnnie Cash” in black marker, are made of wood and leather with a metal heel plate. The shoebox that holds the molds has a grosgrain ribbon in the colors of the Italian flag on the box top and an adhesive label that reads “Johnnie Cash.” Accompanied by a cardboard pattern. 

Source: Julien's Auctions

Sketch of the foot of Johnny Cash by Pasquale Di Fabrizio | Size 13 |

Source: julien's Auctions

Johnny Cash | Moreschi boots

Source: Julien's Auctions | Sold $ 4,062.50

JOHNNY CASH ANKLE BOOTS
A Johnny Cash owned and worn pair of black leather Moreschi ankle boots, signed by Cash on the interior of both boots in black ink. 

Source: Julien's Auctions

Johnny Cash | Inside a Moreschi boot

Source: Julien's Auctions

Johnny Cash | Stacy Adams shoes

Source: Julien's Auctions | Sold $ 2,250 

JOHNNY CASH STAGE WORN AND SIGNED SHOES
A pair of Johnny Cash stage worn and signed shoes. The black leather Stacy Adams brand shoes are signed on the right sole "Johnny Cash". They were worn on stage in the mid-1990s. Size 13. 

Source: Julien's Auctions

Johnny Cash | Breaking In A Brand New Pair Of Shoes lyrics

Source: Julien's Auctions | Estimate $ 1,500 - 3,000

JOHNNY CASH HANDWRITTEN "BREAKING IN A BRAND NEW PAIR OF SHOES" LYRICS
A sheet of Johnny Cash handwritten working lyrics to a song titled "Breaking In A Brand New Pair Os Shoes" written on a lined sheet of yellow paper in two types of black ink. 

Source: Julien's Auctions

Johnny Cash | Itchy Feet. 20 Foot-Tappin' Greats

Columbia, 2002 (Originally on CBS, 1978)

MEET THE BOOTMAKER

1973 | Pasquale Di Fabrizio holding the Johnny (Johnnie) Cash shoe box

Source: The Tampa Tribune (January 14, 1973)

Pasquale Di Fabrizio (1926 - 2008) was a legendary shoemaker in Los Angeles, a modern day shoemaker to the stars. 

Pasquale Di Fabrizio and his staff have stitched custom­made shoes for 33 years and for more than 1,000 movies, he estimates ...

His shoes do more than look good, they can work wonders, like make an actor look taller. "To tell all the secrets would take a month," Di Fabrizio says with a chuckle at his shop in Los Angeles.

"This is an art that every day dies," he says. An art that requires knowledge not only of foot anatomy, circulation and balance but also of the nuances of period fashion. "The shoes have to be 100% the truth of the time," he says. 

Los Angeles Times | February 5, 1993

He was born in Pratola Serra a small town nearby Avellino; he left for the U.S.A. in 1961 and never came back but at the same time he kept a strong relationship with his hometown. He was appointed Cavaliere dell'ordine della Stella d'Italia by the Italian Government in 1971 and "Man Of The Year" in 1997 by the Federated Italo-Americans.

In what can loosely be called "shoe circles," Pasquale Fabrizio is a minor deity. Not only can he take the squeak out of a pair of boots, he can put the squeak back in. He can dye a favorite pair of shoes cream for a wedding day, then return them to a pristine black. 

When Dorothy's ruby slippers from "The Wizard of Oz" needed a touch­up, the Smithsonian Institution sent them to Fabrizio. In an armored car.

Shoe lovers of every age, race and income travel unfamiliar swaths of Los Angeles to see the master cobbler. 

Los Angeles Times | September 7, 2004

He passed away in Burbank July 15, 2008 and lay to rest at Forest Lawn Memorial Park, Hollywood Hills.

September 1982 | Sammy Davis Jr. Dean Martin, Frank Sinatra paper patterns by

Pasquale di Fabrizio | Bottega Di Fabrizio 

Source: Julien's Auctions

Johnny Cash portrait
From: I See A Darkness - Graphic Novel by Reinhard Kleist
Published by I See A Hero - 2007