Sunday, January 29, 2017

VANS IN MY HEAD/VANS ON MY FEET | TBAMFW # 24

VV.AA. - Dogtown And Z-Boys Motion Picture Soundtrack | detail
UMG Recordings, Inc., 2002

While skateboarding eventually would become all but synonymous with teen rebellion, in 1975 the bulk of the competitors at the competition were relatively clean-cut, well-behaved types - mimics of the "young sportsmen" ideal of the classic 1960s surfers.
Dressed in their team uniforms of blue Vans sport shoes, Levi's jeans, and blue Zephyr T-shirts, however, the Z-Boys turned heads at the event even before competition began.

Michael Fallon
Dodgerland: Decadent Los Angeles and the 1977–78 Dodgers
University of Nebraska Press, 2016 


Reproach - Is What It Is 7"EP
Deep Six Records, 2006


I was straight edge as a kid and was really into bands like Minor Threat, SSD, DYS, Negative FX etc..so when Youth Of Today and company exploded on the scene it was my cup of tea.

I respected the Straight Edge way of life and appreciated the positive message in the music but eventually it became a fashion show of hooded sweatshirts, Vans, varsity jackets etc.. At many a show were there armies of X'ed up youth singing along to "Break Down the Walls". This period of
NYHC was the fucking great!


Daryl Kahan [Vocalist, Citizen's Arrest (!!!), True Colors, God Is My Co-Pilot]
From: New York Hardcore 1986 - 1993
Edited by David Koenig


The thought of a fifteen-year-old making a lifelong commitment of any sort is laughable - many have trouble deciding between Facebook or MySpace, Xbox or Playstation, Vans or Converse. Yet here I am, twenty years later, still Straight Edge. Or maybe just still stubborn.

Ross Haenfler
From: Sober Living for the Revolution: Hardcore Punk, Straight Edge, and Radical Politics
PM Press, 2010


Bleeding Knees Club - Nothing To Do
I Oh You/Illusive Sounds, 2012

Vans were the coolest of all shoes, totally hot among the action-oriented youth subcultures, such as surfers, skaters, breakdancers (?), and New Wavers (??). They came in a variety of styles: hi-tops, low-tops, and the famed slip-ons that had no shoelaces. The checkered or Hawaiian-print ones were gnarly.

David Mansour
From: From Abba to Zoom: A Pop Culture Encyclopedia of the Late 20th Century
Andrews McMeel Publishing, 2004


VV.AA. - Fast Times At Ridgemont High (Music From The Motion Picture)
Full Moon/Asylum Records, 1982

Early in 1980, when Kurt (Cobain) was twelve, he and his friend Brendan had seen the B-52's on Saturday Night Live". They got bitten by the new wave bug and Brendan got his parents to buy him some checkered Vans. Kurt's dad couldn't afford that, so Kurt just drew a checkerboard pattern on his regular sneakers.

Michael Azerrad
Come As You Are: The Story of Nirvana
Three Rivers Press, 1993
 


Brutal Youth - Spill Your Guts
Death To False Hope Records, 2010

OFF! | Compared To What 7" (LTD Edition)
Southern Lord, 2011

In some ways it was conscious, and in some ways it was just what we rocked every day. I was more inclined to go to Orchard Street or Rivington Street and try to pick up sneakers I saw Rakim (Eric B. & Rakim) wearing in the “I Ain’t No Joke” video than I was to wear what someone was wearing on a record from England.
That’s even what I loved about bands from the Midwest who just got up onstage in flannel shirts and ripped jeans, or bands from California who wore Vans and looked like they just came from shredding a pool or a half-pipe. Represent who you are and where you come from!

Matt Warnke (Vocalist, Bold)
From: NYHC - New York Hardcore, 1980–1990
Edited by Tony Rettman - Bazillion Points, 2014 


The Black Angels - Another Nice Pair 12"
Light In The Attic

Ben Vaughn - Mono
Club De Musique Records, 1992


Well, you're just like a club f__ wearing Doc Martens
Get a pair of chukas or some checkerboard slip-ons
Worship Jeff Spicoli not Chris Cornell
Get a pair of Vans or God will send you to Hell
To Hell...
You think Doc Martens are the coolest invention
Since someone sliced a loaf of bread in someone else's kitchen
The plain truth is that you just plain suck
So why should I tell you not to waste a hundred bucks

Vans in my head
Vans on my feet
My sole is on the ground when I'm walking down the street 2, 3, 4
Don't wear no Doc Martens
Can't wear no Birkenstocks …

From: Vans Song
By Jack Kevorkian And The Suicide Machines
Vans Song 7"EP (Youth Rendition Records, 1993)
 



Bart Skils - Black Vans 12"
Drumcode,  2016

VV.AA. - Dogtown And Z-Boys. Motion Picture Soundtrack
UMG Recordings, Inc., 2002




THESE BOOTS ARE MADE FOR WALKING
SHOES ON RECORD JACKETS



Niagara
From: Vans: Off the Wall (50th Anniversary Edition)
Edited by Doug Palladini - Abrams Books, 2016

I'm really the type to wear spikes not leisure. The design people at Vans were very impressive and thorough in adapting my "reality". They kept it authentic and transformed it to the realities of the marketplace … it's like they read my book.

Niagara (Vocalist/artist, Destroy All Monsters, Dark Carnival)
From: Vans: Off the Wall (50th Anniversary Edition)
Edited by Doug Palladini - Abrams Books, 2016



2008 | Niagara Vans | LTD Edition

Friday, January 27, 2017

JANUARY 27, 2017 | HOLOCAUST MEMORIAL DAY

Shoes for summer camp, manufactured in a workshop in the ghetto
Lodz, Poland
Source: Yad Vashem Photo Archive | Google Arts & Culture


Drawings and pictures come "from an album found in the area of the Lodz ghetto (Poland) after the liberation. The albums were prepared by the Statistics Department for the chairman of the Judenrat in the ghetto. The album consists of 328 pages, including photographs of the ghetto shoemaking department: management of the workshops, the workers, the work instructors, a general view of the workshop, different stages of production, diagrams and statistics concerning quantities of raw materials and production."

Lodz, Poland: shoemaking department in the ghetto
Source: Yad Vashem Photo Archive | Google Arts & Culture



Shoes for summer camp, manufactured in a workshop in the ghetto
Lodz, Poland
Source: Yad Vashem Photo Archive | Google Arts & Culture

Shoes for summer camp, designed in a workshop in the ghetto
Lodz, Poland
Source: Yad Vashem Photo Archive | Google Arts & Culture



TO REMEMBER

PRIMO LEVI [1919-1987]
SURVIVAL IN AUSCHWITZ

1991 | SUSANNA PIERATZKI
BIRTH

2005 | GYULA PAUER & CAN TOGAY
SHOES ON THE DANUBE PROMENADE

THE FOOTPRINTS FOR HOPE
PROJECT

MEMORIAL DAY 2015

MEMORIAL DAY 2016




Shoes for summer camp, designed in a workshop in the ghetto
Lodz, Poland
Source: Yad Vashem Photo Archive | Google Arts & Culture

Thursday, January 26, 2017

1958 | THE ILLUMINATED HEEL BY MART F. IRVING AND WILLIAM R. DUNCAN

The Illuminated Heels | Detail
Photograph: Francis Miller

Source: Google Arts & Culture/LIFE Photo Collection

Tuesday, January 24, 2017

1949 | BREAKING NEWS FROM PARIS: SARKIS DER BALIAN

1949 | Sarkis Der Balian
Source: Ars Sutoria magazine, Summer 1949

1949 | Sarkis Der Balian
Photograph: Christophe Villard
Source: © Musée International de la Chaussure, ROMANS

1949 | Sarkis Der Balian
Source: Ars Sutoria magazine, Summer 1949

1949 | Sarkis Der Balian
Photograph: Christophe Villard
Source: © Musée International de la Chaussure, ROMANS


Summer 1949
Selected Der Balian heels from Romans matching the Ars Sutoria photoeditorial, all of them.


Unfortunately we couldn't find a match for the following two sandals, but ultimately we can't complain.



1949 | Sarkis Der Balian
Source: Ars Sutoria magazine, Summer 1949

1949 | Sarkis Der Balian
Source: Ars Sutoria magazine, Summer 1949


INTRODUCING
SARKIS DER BALIAN

A TRIBUTE TO
THE ARMENIAN SCHOOL OF FOOTWEAR DESIGN

INTRODUCING
ARSHO BAGHSARIAN



1949 | Breaking news from Paris
Sarkis Der Balian - Bottier 1re catégorie - PARIS

Source: Ars Sutoria magazine, Summer 1949

Sunday, January 22, 2017

1966 - 1968 | HERVE TELEMAQUE

1968 | Hervé Télémaque
En Croix | Acrylique Sur Bois et Tapis Synthétique
Source: Natalie Seroussi

1966 | Hervé Télémaque
Pantoufle | Acrylic On Canvas And Object
Source: ArtNet

1966 | Hervé Télémaque
Un Homme En Raccourci Lent
Source: ArtNet


1832 - 2009
SHOES & ART



1966 | Hervé Télémaque
L'Espion | Oil On Canvas
Source: Le Point













1968 | Hervé Télémaque
En Croix | Acrylique Sur Bois et Tapis Synthétique
Source: Natalie Seroussi



1966 | Hervé Télémaque
Pantoufle | Acrylic On Canvas And Object
Source: ArtNet


1966 | Hervé Télémaque
Un Homme En Raccourci Lent
Source: ArtNet


1966 | Hervé Télémaque
L'Espion | Oil On Canvas
Source: Le Point







Friday, January 20, 2017

1965 | FALL FASHION - SHOPPING TIPS




TESTO ORIGINALE:
(Cappotti e tailleur in stile classico) "per durare una lunga stagione e speriamo un paio d'anni ancora, almeno.

Calze e scarpe si comprano sempre all'inizio dell'autunno, perché quelle dell'anno scorso saranno finite o sciupate". Ma non deve trattarsi di una bella scarpa "qualunque", di una calza comprata a casaccio".

ORIGINAL TEXT:
(Classic coats and suits) "to last a long season and hopefully a couple more years, at least.

Socks and shoes must be bought in early autumn, because last year shoes will be ravaged or worse. But it should not be a generic beautiful shoe or a common sock."
 



1965 | C.L.A.M.S. (Bologna)
£ 9.300 (€ 95,65)
With nailflex tights by Rede £ 600 (€ 6,17)

U. Romagnoli (Bologna)
£ 5,900 (€ 60,68)
Socks by Rede £ 1.100 (€ 11,31)

1965 | Long jacket suit by Hella
£ 35.000 (€ 359,98)
Camel shetland suit by Cori
£ 24.000 (€ 246,85)

1965 | Two tone suede shoes by U. Romagnoli
£ 8.900 (€ 91,54)
Buckled shoe with washable kidskin by Italo Colombo (Parabiago)
£ 11.500 (€ 118,28)

1965 | A coat designed by Elvira Leonardi Bouyeure (A.K.A. Biki)
From the Cori-Biki line, created for Cori - Gruppo Finanziario Tessile
About £ 40.000 (€ 411,00)

Handicraft coat by André
£ 46.000 ( € 473,12)

Biki's "price is only estimated - crossed beaver collar not included of course; while the André's seems expensive."


Source: Weekly Domenica del Corriere - September 19, 1965
Edited by Adriana Mulassano and Carla Giagnoni
All photographs by Rolando Di Centa

FOOTNOTE:
All the prices in Italian Lire. Time-varying Euro conversion based on Istat coefficients.


Wednesday, January 18, 2017

STEFANO MARAZZINI INDEX

Creazioni Stefano Marazzini
Parabiago, Milan

 
1959 | Stefano Marazzini
The Space Line

1961 | Stefano Marazzini
Parabiago, Milan

1967 | Stefano Marazzini
Creazioni Du Barry

1968 | Stefano Marazzini
Creazioni Du Barry

1972 | Creazioni Stefano Marazzini At The MET Museum
Designed by Salvatore Deodato

1972 | Stefano Marazzini & Salvatore Deodato
For Bayer

1972 | Eva Sabbatini & Salvatore Deodato
For Bayer

1974 | Creazioni Stefano Marazzini
Designed by Salvatore Deodato



1973 | Spring Summer | Stefano Marazzini
 Source: Ars Sutoria
1973 |  Stefano Marazzini | detail
Diagonally-cut heel, decorative hole and a periwinkle insert in the upper
Source: Ars Sutoria

Monday, January 16, 2017

1974 | MARY POPPS AT THE 38TH G.D.S. | DÜSSELDORF

1974 | Mary Popps
Designed by Maurizio Vittorio Mandozzi

1974 | Mary Popps
Designed by Maurizio Vittorio Mandozzi
Showcased at the 38th G.D.S. | Düsseldorf

1974 | Mary Popps
Designed by Maurizio Vittorio Mandozzi
Showcased at the 38th G.D.S. | Düsseldorf

1974 | Mary Popps
Designed by Maurizio Vittorio Mandozzi
Showcased at the 38th G.D.S. | Düsseldorf

1974 | Mary Popps
Designed by Maurizio Vittorio Mandozzi
Showcased at the 38th G.D.S. | Düsseldorf



The History of
Mary Poppins/Mary Pops

Part 1 | Part 2

Mary Poppins

At The Metropolitan Museum Of Art | NY 




G.D.S.
Düsseldorf International Shoe Trade Fair

Saturday, January 14, 2017

BOVVER BOOTS (DEFINITION OF) | TBAMFW # 5.3

Bovver, an imitation of a working-class london pronunciation of bother, has made two spectacular appearances in the English national conversation in the last half-century. Bother, often in the phrase 'a spot of bother', was part of the vocabulary of menacing understatement and euphemism favored by both criminals and the police …

… Bother (a synonym for 'aggro', which seems to have fallen out of use) thus referred to extreme aggravation and/or physical violence, and in this sense was adopted by the skinheads of the later 1960s in their standard challenge, 'you want bovver?'
Tony Thorne
From: The 100 Words That Make The English (Abacus Software, 2011)


1985, 1995 | Mona Hatoum | Performance Still
Source: TATE

There was mods and skinheads, and mod seemed a bit expensive dress-wise, so that's why I became a skin. Big boots, cropped hair, a working class look. Young, aggressive, and I thought, that's for me. The first time I had a crop, I felt tremendous. A bovver boy.
George Marshall
From: Skinhead Nation (S.T. Publishing, 1996)


The Clichés | Bovver Boots 7"
(Randale Records, 2014)

Once the media became aware of the skinhead, cast him as the latest in a line of hooligan folk-devils (teddy-boys and later punks were others) and fomented a moral panic around him, the public became acquainted with the phrases "bovver boy" and "bovver boots" (first heavy black polished army surplus boots; later Doc Martens boots worn as part of the skinhead uniform).
Tony Thorne
From: The 100 Words That Make The English (Abacus Software, 2011)


Boots For Dancing | S/T 12"
(Aural Pop, 1980)

One of the things I hated and feared, hated because I feared, was the NF, the National front, especially the skinhead gangs. These would hunt for "yids n pakis n coon", though not necessarily in that order. 
If they weren't already chasing you in their Doctor Martens boots, also known as "bovver boots", they'd stop you to ask if you wanted "aggro", the abbreviation for aggravation. "You wan' aggro?" they'd ask. "You wan' some bovver?" Or they'd chant in your face: "A,G / A,G,R / A,G,R,O / AGRO!" And who would question their spelling?
Nick Barlay
From: Scattered Ghosts: One Family's Survival Through War, Holocaust and Revolution (I.B.Tauris, 2013)



The Explosion | Bury Me Standing
(Chunksaah Records, 2014)

As he walked, Joe thought. He wasn’t completely satisfied with his mob. For one thing, they weren’t strong enough. He wanted command of a larger force. Say about forty guys all tooled up and ready to follow where he led. The other mobs had larger forces – he could name dozens like the Willesden Whites, the Hendon Mafia, the Kilburn Aggro Boys. Even in West Ham they had mobs numbering close on fifty qualified bovver boys.
Richard Allen
From: Skinhead (New English Library, 1970)


Freak Vibe | Prostration (Tape)
(Casino Trash, 2014)


… because you're looking for fuss 'n' bovver, oh yeah
Don't come tryin' to start a fight
'cause you think you're the greatest thing since sliced bread
You might be a hit with all the girls
But that won't help you when I break your head, 'cause

Just one look at your face
Just one look at your face
Just one look at your face
I Got to get out of this place

You say you're looking for fuss 'n' bovver, alright
You're gonna get it now …


The Nips | Fuss 'N' Bovver
From: Only The End Of The Beginning (Soho Records, 1980)




Blare | S/T 7"EP
(DIY, 2013)


DR. MARTENS
TBAMFW # 05

SNEAKER PIMP (DEFINITION OF). A WHAT??
TBAMFW # 25

THESE BOOTS ARE MADE FOR WALKING
SHOES ON RECORD JACKETS



Bovver Boots
Source: Spirit Of '69. A Skinhead Bible By George Marshall

P.T. Publishing, 1994