Monday, April 29, 2013

1967 | STEFANO MARAZZINI | CREAZIONI DU BARRY | PARABIAGO, MILAN |

1967 | Du Barry Creations by Stefano Marazzini
Parabiago, Milan

1967 | Du Barry Creations by Stefano Marazzini
Parabiago, Milan

1967 | Du Barry Creations by Stefano Marazzini
Parabiago, Milan




1968 | Du Barry Creations
by Stefano Marazzini

The Project
SS33
[Footwear In Parabiago, Milan]

Sunday, April 28, 2013

1950 | FRIEDENSREICH HUNDERTWASSER | SELF-MADE SUMMER AND WINTER SHOES

1950 | Friedensreich Hundertwasser in Paris
Self-made summer and winter shoes, with nature-made cracks on the sidewalk
Photograph by Augustin Dumage

The front cover of Happy? was a nod to the German artist Friedensreich Hundertwasser, whose work I was truly impressed by. I don’t know nothing about him, I don’t want to. I just know that any time that man put something together I was completely interested. He did architecture, too, and it was always interesting, for instance using gardens on the floors of skyscrapers, and altering the shape of a building and making it interesting to the eye for the observer – as on our sleeve. 
John "Rotten" Lydon
Anger Is An Energy (Simon & Schuster, 2014)


SHOES & ART
1832 - 2009

Saturday, April 27, 2013

1967 | ERCO | VIGEVANO |

1967 | ERCO | by Ermenegildo (Gildo) Comelli
Vigevano

1967 | ERCO | by Ermenegildo (Gildo) Comelli
Vigevano

1967 | ERCO | by Ermenegildo (Gildo) Comelli
Vigevano

1967 | ERCO | by Ermenegildo (Gildo) Comelli
Vigevano

1967 | ERCO | by Ermenegildo (Gildo) Comelli
Vigevano

1967 | Bruno Comelli (Gildo's son)
Awarded with the Footwear Oscar

The caption reads: 
Mr. Bruno Comelli (Calzaturificio ERCO, Vigevano) receives from Secretary of State Donat Cattin the OSCAR 1967 for their classic and elegant women's shoes. It's the second footwear Oscar for ERCO; the first time happened in 1963 and ERCO's owner Mr. Gildo Comelli was there to receive the highest award and we hope to see him once again as soon ERCO will get the third Oscar award.


1967 | ERCO | VIGEVANO
Footwear Oscar Ad

1967 | ERCO granted diploma and gold medal by the Chamber of Commerce, Pavia
Source: Carla Comelli Archive


ERCO | Vigevano

IL TACCO A SPILLO | THE STILETTO HEEL



1967 | ERCO Footwear Oscar Award
Source: Carla Comelli Archive

Friday, April 26, 2013

1946 | ERWIN BLUMENFELD FOR I.MILLER

1946 | I.Miller
Photographed by Erwin Blumenfeld

1946 | I.Miller
Photographed by Erwin Blumenfeld

1946 | I.Miller
Photographed by Erwin Blumenfeld

1946 | I.Miller
Photographed by Erwin Blumenfeld

Source: Devocanada


I. MILLER
INDEX
DeLuxe Shoes

Tuesday, April 23, 2013

1967 | MOLASCHI | PARABIAGO

1967 | MOLASCHI
S. Lorenzo Di Parabiago, Milan

1967 | MOLASCHI
S. Lorenzo Di Parabiago, Milan


MOLASCHI
Parabiago, Milan
I N D E X

Monday, April 22, 2013

THE 2-TONE RECORDS SHOES | TBAMFW #17

VV.AA. - 1981 - Dance Craze
2-Tone Records/Chrysalis
Source: 2-Tone Info

THE SPECIALS - 1981 - Concrete Jungle 7"
Chrysalis
Source: Discogs

THE BODYSNATCHERS - 1980 - Let's Do Rock Steady 7"
Chrysalis (Spanish edition)
Source: Discogs

THE BODYSNATCHERS
1980 | Ad for the single Easy Life/Too Experienced (2-Tone)
Source: Fruitier Than Thou

THE FRIDAY CLUB - 1985 - Window Shopping 7"/12"
2-Tone Records
Source: Discogs

The 2-Tone Trail by Pete Chambers
Tencton Planet Publications, 2005




F O O T N O T E S

VV.AA. - 1988 - Dance Craze
27-track VHS | Chrysalis
Source: 2-Tone-Info


2-Tone Records (1979-1986) was the leading label of the U.K. ska revival. 

The cover of the live compilation album "Dance Craze" (1981) was an idea of The Specials' Jerry Dammers who also run the label and probably it was 2-Tones' last peak. The film documenting the live performances opened February 1981, but the VHS come out 7 years later.

The cover of The Friday Club 7"/12" was shot by sole-man Steve Pyke.

NON 2-TONE
TWO-TONE
SHOES
[TBAMFW #16]


THESE BOOTS
ARE MADE FOR

WALKING
The Complete Series

Boots Craze | 7"s box set |
Bootleg
Source: Madsounds


Sunday, April 21, 2013

1953 | JEAN-PAUL RIOPELLE | UNTITLED

1953 | Portrait d'artiste. Les chaussures de Jean-Paul Riopelle
Photograph by Denise Colomb


SHOES & ART
1832-2009

Saturday, April 20, 2013

1987 | CLEO BOTTIER | PARABIAGO, MILAN

1987 | Cleo Bottier | A Manolo Blahnik maker
Parabiago, Milan

2008
Manolo Blahnik
At Cleo Bottier

Friday, April 19, 2013

1950-1954 | EARTHA KITT AND ANDRE PERUGIA'S MULES

Eartha Kitt Loves Perugia

Eartha Kitt [1927-2008]
Source: Eartha Kitt Official Site

André Perugia
One sided cutaway with stacked spheres heel mule
As seen in the movie NEW FACES [1954]

L’attrice-cantante Eartha Kitt (1927-2008) arrivò a Parigi alla fine degli anni ’40 al seguito della compagnia di ballo 'Katherine Dunham' grazie ad una borsa di studio. Fu avviata alla carriera da solista da Fred Carroll, titolare del night–club Carroll’s e l'esordio venne commentato dalla stampa come 'La cosa più emozionante successa a Parigi negli ultimi venticinque anni.’
Oltre che per la voce, Eartha attirò immediatamente le simpatie degli stilisti francesi grazie alla presenza sensuale e magnetica :
"Jacques Fath, Pierre Balmain, Madame Schiaparelli e molti altri stilisti mi misero a disposizione tutto ciò che era rimasto dopo le loro sfilate stagionali. Ero la squattrinata meglio vestita di tutta Parigi. Mi ritrovai con un ricco guardaroba dei migliori sarti parigini che mi chiamavano dicendo "Erzà, c'è qualcosa qui che son sicuro che andrebbe bene per te, qualcosa di indossato nelle sfilate che Monsieur Fath vorrebbe che avessi tu."


Singer-actress Eartha Kitt (1927-2008) arrived in Paris in the late '40s thanks to a scholarship with the Katherine Dunham Dance Troupe. Soon her solo career was launched by Fred Carroll, owner of Carroll's nightclub and her debut was hailed by the press as 'The most exciting thing that has happened in Paris in twenty-five years.’
Eartha immediately attracted the attentions of French designers thanks to her sensual and magnetic appearance:
“Jacques Fath, Pierre Balmain, Madame Schiaparelli and several other designers gave me anything that was left over from their seasonal fashion shows. I was the best dressed pauper in Paris. I collected an extensive wardrobe from the best of the Paris couturiers, who would call me and say, 'Erza, there is somesing here I am sure would be good for you, somesing left over from the fashion show that Mr Fath would like you to have.”

1950 | December, 23 | Eartha Kitt in Paris
Mules | One sided cutaway with stacked spheres heels by Perugia
Source: New York Times/Associated Press


1950 | December, 23
Eartha Kitt in Paris Well Shod in Perugia's | Detail | 
Source: New York Times/Associated press


Jacques Fath in particolare divenne un suo grande amico (lo citò anche nella canzone “Monotonous” del 1952: “Jack Fath creò per me un nuovo stile“) e con lui arrivò anche André Perugia, che disegnava per Fath proprio in quegli anni.

Per la serata di inaugurazione del nuovo locale di Fred Carroll, Le Perroquet:
"avevo ricevuto un intero nuovo guardaroba da Jacques Fath, che adorava il mio corpo. [...] Quella sera indossavo un abito bianco in raso di seta, decorato con piume di garzetta, con una mantellina in tinta. Le scarpe, fatte espressamente per me da Perugia, vennero pagate da Fred e suo fratello."
E poi aggiunge:
"Indossavo un abito bianco in raso di seta, decorato con piume di garzetta, le scarpe fatte apposta per me da Perugia, a tallone scoperto, ed ero spaventata a morte."


Jacques Fath in particular, became a close friend of hers (he was also quoted in her song ‘Monotonous’ in 1952: “Jack Fath made a new style for me“) and so was André Perugia, who then designed shoes for Fath. 

For the grand opening of Le Perroquet, Fred Carroll's new night-club:
“I had received a completely new wardrobe from Jacques Fath, who adored my body. [...] This evening I had a white silk satin dress trimmed with egret feathers, with a matching coat. Shoes made especially for me by Perugia were paid for by Fred and her brother.”
Then she adds:
“I wore a white silk gown trimmed with egret feathers, my specially made open-back shoes from Perugia, and I was scared to death.”

[Year Unknown] Eartha Kitt Shod in Perugia's
An alteration without spheres ornament
Source: All Star Pics

Eartha rimase legata a lungo a quelle scarpe dal tacco così particolare. Dalla prima  apparizione del 1950 sino al 1954 (almeno), anno della realizzazione del film "New Faces" tratto dallo spettacolo teatrale di Broadway "Leonard Sillman's New Faces Of 1952").

Eartha enjoyed very much those shoes and that peculiar heel design: from the 1950 debut to 1954 (at least) when the movie "New Faces" premiered (taken from the Broadway production "Leonard Sillman's New Faces Of 1952").


1954 | Eartha Kitt
Movie production still from Leonard Sillman's "New Faces"
Source: ebay (history-agent)

1954 | Eartha Kitt | Detail
Movie production still from Leonard Sillman's "New Faces"
Source: ebay (history-agent)

André Perugia
Stacked spheres heel mule | As seen in the movie NEW FACES [1954]
Source: Heavenly Soles by Mary Trasko [1989 Cross River Press] 

La didascalia della mule di Perugia tratta dal Libro "Heavenly Soles" recita così:
Modello di PERUGIA indossato da Josephine Baker nel film Zou Zou, 1934. (Museo Charles Jourdan, Romans).
e viene totalmente smentita da quanto sopra. 


The caption of the Perugia mule taken from "Heavenly Soles" says:
Model by PERUGIA worn by Josephine Baker in the film Zou Zou, 1934. (Musée Charles Jourdan, Romans)".
and is completely disproved by all of the above.


SOURCES:
Eartha Kitt | Confessions Of A Sex Kitten | Barricade Books, Incorporated, 1989
Eartha Kitt by Adrian Jack [The Guardian, Monday 29 December 2008]



1950 | HEELSTORY |
ANDRE PERUGIA ON THE BALL
TALON À BOULES




FOOTNOTE

1952 | Eartha Kitt | Are those Perugia's??
From "Leonard Sillman's New Faces of 1952" | Royale Theatre | New York
Source: Museum Of The City Of New York

Interessante notare che, sino ad oggi, tra tutte le celebrità, attrici, ballerine, regnanti e/o reali calzate da Perugia, il nome di Eartha Kitt non era mai stato menzionato.

Worth of note is that - up until now - Eartha Kitt was never mentioned among the ranks of celebs, actresses, dancers, queens and/or royalties shod in Perugia's.


Thursday, April 18, 2013

1965 | VACCARI | BOLOGNA | PART 2

1965 | VACCARI
Italian Footwear Oscar Winner
Bologna

In 1965 Vaccari shoe factory was awarded by the Academy of Turin International Shoe Oscar for the category "Classic and elegant women's shoes".

1965 | VACCARI
Italian Footwear Oscar Winner
Bologna

1965 | VACCARI
Italian Footwear Oscar Winner
Bologna

History Of The
SHOE FACTORY VACCARI
BOLOGNA

VACCARI
Index

Wednesday, April 17, 2013

1971 | THE SHOEMAKER SANDY | SANT'ELPIDIO A MARE |


1971 | SANDY by F.lli Mattiozzi
Sant'Elpidio A Mare (Ascoli Piceno)
Designed by Salvatore Deodato

1971 | SANDY by F.lli Mattiozzi
Sant'Elpidio A Mare (Ascoli Piceno)
Designed by Salvatore Deodato

1971 | SANDY by F.lli Mattiozzi
Sant'Elpidio A Mare (Ascoli Piceno)
Designed by Salvatore Deodato

SALVATORE DEODATO FOR SANDY

1973 | Sandy

1977 | Sandy


1971 | SANDY by F.lli Mattiozzi
Sant'Elpidio A Mare (Ascoli Piceno)

Tuesday, April 16, 2013

STYLE | 1965 | THE REAL McCOY | STEVE McQUEEN

Mug shot: Steve McQueen as Doc McCoy
Newspaper prop used on The Getaway (1972)
Signed by McQueen
Source: Profile In History (Drama, Action, Romance - Auction)

1965 | Jean 'Shrimp' Shrimpton & Steve McQueen
Photograph by Richard Avedon | Harper's Bazaar | Feb. 1965 |
Source: devodotcom

1965 | Jean 'Shrimp' Shrimpton & Steve McQueen
Photograph by Richard Avedon | Harper's Bazaar | Feb. 1965 |
Source: devodotcom

1965 | Jean 'Shrimp' Shrimpton & Steve McQueen
Shoe by Charles Jourdan
Photograph by Richard Avedon | Harper's Bazaar | Feb. 1965 |
Source: devodotcom



1982
Charles Jourdan Loves Art

Sunday, April 14, 2013

1832 | EUGENE DELACROIX | ETUDE DE BABOUCHES |

1832 | Eugène Delacroix | Etude De Babouches
Oil On Paper | © Musée du Louvre |
Source: Joconde

SHOES & ART
1832-2009