1966 | VACCARI | BOLOGNA |

1966 | VACCARI

Bologna

1966 | VACCARI | SAGUATTI & C.

Bologna

History Of The
SHOE FACTORY VACCARI
BOLOGNA

VACCARI
Index

1966 | SAGUATTI | BOLOGNA

1966 | Saguatti & Co. | 
Bologna

1966 | Saguatti & Co. | 
Bologna

1966 | Saguatti & Co. | 
Bologna

History Of

The Shoe FActory

VACCARI

1965
Saguatti & C.
Bologna

19TH CENTURY | RYŪRYŪKYO SHINSAI | THE CHINESE WARRIOR |

19th Century | RYŪRYŪKYO SHINSAI

Sword, Shoes and a Scroll, Representing the Chinese Warrior Chōryō

Source: MET

SHOES & ART
1932-2009

1968 | ERCO | VIGEVANO |

1968 | ERCO | by Ermenegildo Comelli | 

Vigevano

1968 | ERCO | by Ermenegildo Comelli | 

Vigevano

1968 | ERCO | by Ermenegildo Comelli | 

Vigevano

Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso | #15/1968

1968 | ERCO | by Ermenegildo Comelli | 

Vigevano

Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso | #15/1968

1968 | ERCO | by Ermenegildo Comelli | 

Vigevano

Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso | #15/1968

1968 | ERCO | by Ermenegildo Comelli | 

Vigevano

Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso | #15/1968

IL TACCO A SPILLO | THE STILETTO HEEL
PHOTOGALLERY 1953 - 1962

ERCO
INDEX

1928 | PERUGIA SHOES AS SEEN IN PAN [ANNUAIRE DU LUXE A PARIS BY PAUL POIRET]

1928 | Annuaire Du Luxe A Paris
Edited by Paul Poiret | Printed by Devambez
On sale at Braiterman Books [$ 5,000]

ENGLISH TEXT BELOW

“L’ultimo libro che ho pubblicato era una raccolta di pubblicità che ebbe ampio successo: l’Annuario Pan; si rivolgeva a tutte le industrie e i commerci di lusso, era stato creato con gioia, come tutte le cose buone e aveva offerto il pretesto alla riunione settimanale di tutti i migliori artisti disegnatori dell’epoca, che pranzavano da me il mercoledì. Allora, si affidava a ciascuno un problema pubblicitario; si trattava di vantare in modo imprevisto e definitivo i semi scelti di Clause, i completi del sarto O’Rossen e i preziosi reperti dell’antiquario Bensimon.

Martin, Dignimond, Touchagues, Lucien, Boucher, Oberlé, Pierre Fau, Eddy Legrand, Piaubert, Georgets Delaw, Camille Bellaigue, Van Moppés e il pittore animalista Delhuermoz erano i miei fedeli ospiti. Alcuni fra loro, che non erano ancora conosciuti, trovarono la loro strada in quest’occasione. L’album Pan fu diffuso non solo fra la clientela cui mirava, ma tutti gli amanti dell’arte e i bibliofili ne volevano una copia. Un giorno sarà riesumato e diventerà la formula per una nuova rivista”. 

[Paul Poiret, En habillant l'Epoque, 1930. Trad. Irma Vivaldi]

Poiret non li cita, ma fra gli autori dei disegni ci furono anche artisti come Gesmar o Jean Cocteau. Effettivamente l'Annuaire du Luxe de Paris del 1927-28 fu uno strepitoso documento sui marchi e sulla pubblicità nella seconda metà degli anni venti. Vi trovarono spazio 103 marchi: nomi della moda, ristoranti, alberghi, vini: Hermes, Lanvin, Van Cleef & Arpels, Moulin Rouge ecc.

Trovò posto con una grafica estremamente raffinata ed essenziale anche André Perugia, che proprio da Poiret era stato lanciato nel mercato parigino.

1928 | Paul Poiret with Pan, Annuaire Du Luxe A Paris

Source: Diktats

1928 | Le Modèles De Perugia 

From: Annuaire Du Luxe A Paris

Source: Hprints

"The last book I published was an advertising album that attracted great attention: the Annual Pan.It addressed itself to every luxury trade and industry; it had been created in joy, like all good things, and it had been the occasion for a weekly reunion of all the best designers of the period, who lunched with me on Wednesdays. To each was entrusted a particular problem of publicity : for instance, he had to laud in some unforeseen, telling way the unique beads of Clause, the suits of the tailor O'Rossen, or the precious finds of the antiquary Bensimon.

Martin, Dignimont, Touchagues, Lucien Boucher, Oberle, Camille Bellaigue, Pierre Fau, Eddy Legrand, Piaubert, Georges Delaw, and Van Moppes, and the animal designer, Delhuermoz, were my faithful habitues. Some of them, who were not yet known, found their opportunity in this work. The album Pan circulated not only amongst the clientele it aimed at, but all the amateurs of art and bibliophiles demanded a copy. One day it will be exhumed, and will become the model for a new magazine." 

[Paul Poiret - My First Fifty Years - V. Gollancz, 1931]

Poiret doesn’t mention them, but, among the artists, Jean Cocteau and Gesmar were also featured. The Annuaire du Luxe de Paris of 1927-28 was an amazing document about brands and advertising in the second half of the Twenties. 103 labels: fashion houses, accessories, restaurants, hotels, entertainment sites, wines were represented in the pages. Firms advertise incliude Hermès, Lanvin, Van Cleef & Arpels, Moulin Rouge.

André Perugia's page was sophisticated yet essential; Perugia, a long time Poiret's associate, had been introduced by the couturier in the Parisian market some years before.


ANDRE PERUGIA
BOTTIER
I N D E X

1928 | Paul Poiret with Pan | Detail

Source: Diktats

1928 | Luxury ads from PAN
Source: I Desire Vintage Posters

1928 | JEAN COCTEAU
Le Boeuf Sur Le Toit/Le Grand Ecart
Source: I Desire Vintage Posters

1973 | SISA | GORLA MINORE, VARESE

1973 | SISA | Man-made materials
Unknown producers

1973 | SISA | Man-made materials
Unknown producers

1973 | SISA presents KAPI
Man-made material

1973
SISA & PUPI D'ANGERI

1971
SISA
& MARA PALVARINI
Miss Italia 1971

1969 | MEDICI | SESTO FIORENTINO, FLORENCE |

1969 | MEDICI
Sesto Fiorentino, Florence

1973 | SISA & PUPI D'ANGERI |

1973 | SISA [Gorla Minore, Varese]
Showcase his products 1) Polilac Antik; 2,3) Florida
Man-made materials  

1973 | Pupi D'Angeri [Parabiago, Milan]
Platform made with SISA's Polilac Antik
© Museo Carla Musazzi [Parabiago, Milan]
Photo: Irma Vivaldi

SISA
& MARA PALVARINI
Miss Italia 1971

1970-1971 | ITS ARTEA [INDUSTRIA TESSUTI SPECIALI]

1971 | François Villon for I.T.S. Artea | 

Parabiago, Milan

1970 | ITS ARTEA (Industria Tessuti Speciali)
Man-made materials
Parabiago, Milan | Photo Dal Gurney

FOTO SHOE Magazine
#9 September 1970 | Photo: Dal Gurney

FRANÇOIS VILLON DE BENVENISTE

FOR I.T.S. ARTEA

1953 | SPRING TIME | ANDRE PERUGIA'S CORKSCREW HEEL | [60TH ANNIVERSARY] |

1953 | André Perugia
Pump with corkscrew heel
Source: Il Costume E La Moda

Alcune fonti attribuiscono la data di nascita di questa scarpa di André Perugia al 1952, ma qui per (nostra) convenienza celebriamo il 60° anniversario della presentazione per il mercato americano avvenuta a metà novembre del 1953 per Saks Fifth Avenue. 

SPRING IN YOUR STEP (all'incirca "una molla per la tua camminata") era il titolo ricorrente (claim, in italiano) e l'accento veniva posto sia sull'innovativa forma del tacco che sull'utilizzo di acciaio nichelato (color oro), quindi resistente alla corrosione. La scarpa apparteneva ad una collezione caratterizzata dal supporto plantare metallico di cui il "sandalo cubista" é forse il modello più conosciuto.

Some sources date this André Perugia shoe from 1952, here however we celebrate the 60th anniversary of the American showcase at Saks Fith Avenue (mid November 1953). 

The claim was SPRING IN YOUR STEP and the emphasis both on the heel design and the material used for it (gilded nickel stainless steel). The pump was part of a metal-shanked collection of which the "cubist sandal" is the most celebrated model.

1953 | André Perugia
Spring In Your Step
Source: The Kingston Daily Freedom, NY

1953 | André Perugia
Musée International de La Chaussure De Romans, France
Source: Doucement Le Matin

The corkscrew heel in 1953 was pure genius but it comes with g r e a t surprise to learn that Perugia fashioned that heel seventeen (17) years before.

1936 | Model Mary Palermo shod in Perugias

ACME Press Photo

Courtesy Shoe Icons

The complete caption on the back of the photo press reads as follow:

C 219894 ……… CHICAGO BUREAU 

METAL EVENING SLIPPER SHOW 

Mary Palermo, a Chicago model, is shown above at style review at which evening slippers made of metal that are fashioned to remove the wearers weight from the arch to the heel and ball of the feet, designed by André Perugia of Paris, were exhibited.

A modernistic sandal with rocking-chair heel and a Chinese mule with corkscrew heel are shown left to right on floor, while Miss Palermo wears a gilt metal slipper with split heel and clamp, on her left foot, and another model with split metal heel on her right foot. 

CHI_NY Your Credit Must read ACME 3-10-36

1936 | The corkscrew heel (bottom right and - reflected - top left)

All Perugia models

Courtesy: Shoe Icons

ACKNOWLEDGMENT

A huge thank-you-note goes to Shoe Icons' Nazim Mustafaev who found the pictures from 1936 and send them our way knowing we're interested in all things Perugia.

ANDRE PERUGIA
BOTTIER
I N D E X

HEELSTORY
HEEL HISTORY IN PICTURES

F O O T N O T E S

1942 | Made In France
Unknown manufacturer/designer
Source: Kobieta Onet

1977 | Made In Brazil
From: Fashion History Museum collection
Source: FB

1980 | Made In Italy | Armando Pollini | 
La Molleggiata (Spring loaded)
Source: Scarperentola

2010 | Diana Shampang Voorhies
Source: Flickriver

And finally, the following picture can be found on the net without credits and various degrees of comments. Looks like a replica but we can't comment further on.

Perugia-like

Awaiting your comments/info

1969 | NOUVELLE BOLOGNA | BOLOGNA

1969 | Nouvelle Bologna
Bologna

GET SMART | STARRING DON ADAMS AS AGENT 86 [A.K.A MAXWELL SMART]

1968 | DON ADAMS (1923-2005) as Maxwell Smart
Source: Wikipedia

2002 | The shoe-phone as seen in
"Spies: secret from the C.I.A., KGB and Hollywood"
At the Ronald Reagan Presidential Library
Source: Wild Wild West

Schematics of the shoe-phone
From: The Life And Times Of Maxwell Smart | St. Martins Press, 1988
Source: Greg's Get Smart Page

Don Adams
Source: The Whole Pop Catalog | Plexus, 1992

Don Adams
meets
Jean Gabin

1969 | GAMBASSI | MONTEVARCHI, AREZZO |

1969 | GAMBASSI by F.lli Gambassi
Montevarchi, Arezzo

1967
GAMBASSI
Montevarchi

1969 | LA BARBERA | MILAN | WOMEN'S FOOTWEAR OSCAR |

1969 | LA BARBERA | Milan

Women's Footwear Oscar

THE HISTORY OF THE ITALIAN
FOOTWEAR OSCAR AWARD
Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3

ANDRE PERUGIA AT THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART | IT'S A DATE

"Date" significa sia data che appuntamento e l'appuntamento con il Metropolitan Museum Of Art per appassionati e ricercatori é imprescindibile. Ancora una volta abbiamo confrontato il nostro archivio con le preziose informazioni sui modelli di André Perugia che il museo  mette a disposizione a corredo del materiale fotografico (data certa o stimata; origine dell'oggetto; materiali utilizzati; iscrizioni che si trovano su di esso). In passato abbiamo fatto di meglio, ma anche in questo caso abbiamo trovato qualcosa di interessante. Ecco i risultati.

We're coming back to the Metropolitan Museum Of Art all the time. Besides the high quality photographs, the amount of info available is huge and detailed (date certain or presumed; materials, origin, inscriptions). So, being interested in all things André Perugia, we double checked a few items crossing data with our archive. We fared better in the past, nonetheless we have found something interesting anyway. Here's the results.

CASE #1

1920s | Circa 1934
Padova Shoes | Designed by André Perugia

Source: MET

T-strap in pelle e seta disegnata da Perugia per il suo marchio Padova. Non può essere datata anni '20 perché il marchio Padova é nato nel 1933 con l'apertura del negozio omonimo a Parigi e la distribuzione in esclusiva per  il mercato americano affidata a Saks Fifth Avenue nell'anno successivo. Inoltre, l'indirizzo sulla soletta (Rue De La Paix, 4) suggerisce un anno antecedente al 1937. Quindi, osservando brevetti e modelli dell'epoca, azzardiamo circa 1934.

Silk and leather T-strap shoes designed by Perugia under his own Padova label. It can't be 1920s because the Padova label was created in 1933 with a store of the same name in Paris and the U.S. distribution exclusively by Saks Fifth Avenue of the following year. Also, the address stamped on the insole (Rue De La Paix, 4) suggests before 1937. So, looking at models and patents of the time, we say probably ca. 1934.

Padova/Perugia
Original MET data sheet now amended

CASE #2

Ca. 1927 | ca 1931 | André Perugia

Label: "Modele Depose/21161/45630/Made in France"

Source: MET

Ca. 1925 | ca.1931 | André Perugia

Label: "Modele Depose/21161/45629/Made in France"

Source: MET

Questi due modelli sembrano appartenere alla stessa collezione: tacco Luigi XV, seta nera, una fibbia a fiocco con strass. Il primo é datato circa 1927, l'altro circa 1925. 

Osservando i numeri dei modelli depositati si nota che appartengono alla stessa serie e sono consecutivi (45629 - 45630) e quindi molto probabilmente assegnati il medesimo giorno, certamente non a distanza di due anni. Sfortunatamente i brevetti in questione sfuggono al database francese ma con buona probabilità l'anno é il 1931. Un caso ancora aperto.

These two models seems to belong to the same collection: Louis XV heel, black silk, rhinestone clips but the first one is dated ca. 1927 while the other ca. 1925. 

Looking at the consecutive patent numbers (45629 and 45630) -  meaning granted the very same day - they can't be two years apart. Unfortunately these two patents seem to be lost in the French DB although most probably they were granted around the year 1931. Case not closed (yet).

André Perugia
Original MET Data sheets now amended

CASE #3

Ca. 1924 | 1926 | André Perugia | The Model "Rosary" - Evening Shoe
Source: MET

1926 | André Perugia | The Model "Rosary" Highlighted

Source: L'Art Vivant" magazine | 1926, June
Next to the Rosary, on the left the Orphic model

Un bel modello da sera in seta, purtroppo rovinato, con listini intrecciati e una fibbia a forma di fiore. La datazione circa 1924 può probabilmente essere corretta in 1926 dopo aver osservato attentamente la scarpa evidenziata dall'editoriale della rivista L'Art Vivant del giugno 1926, in particolare la forma del collo e i listini intrecciati. Il fiore della versione pubblicata su L'Art Vivant era descritto in pelle colorata mentre su Vogue - gennaio 1927 - come dorato e con diamanti.

The easiest case of the lot: a nice silk evening shoe, sadly worn out, with interwoven bars and a flower-shaped clip. Given date is ca. 1924 but after a closer look to the highlighted shoe - taken from the magazine L'Art Vivant - June 1926 - it should be postponed by two years (Giveaways are the throat line and the interwoven bars. L'Art Vivant caption reads the flowers were made of leather) while Vogue - January 1927 - describe it as gilded with diamonds.

1927 | André Perugia's "Rosary" as seen in Vogue, January 1927

Source: Vogue

Original caption: 

This azure/beige kid sandal is decorated with twisted narrow bands of gold and silver kid with a boucle of diamonds and gold. 

Vogue France | January 1, 1927

André Perugia
Original MET Data sheet still not amended

Nella collezione del MET c'é anche un altro modello Padova (datato 1924-1925) per il quale valgono le medesime condizioni del Caso #1 anche se per la data non possiamo ancora essere precisi. 

At the MET there's also another Padova model (dated 1924-1925) that falls in the same category as Case #1; as for the date we're still working on it.

ANDRE PERUGIA
D O S S I E R

F O O T N O T E

We informed the MET curators about our findings and they acknowledged them changing the credits. Which is nice. However, only  Case #1 and #2 were amended. OK, their call.