Friday, July 31, 2015

THE GALOSHES AS SEEN BY NINA BERBEROVA

Since 1891 | Helsingborgs Galoscher


Ma non bisognava trarre l'affrettata conclusione che sia entrata in quell'ascensore: seduta sulla panca, lo avevo soltanto sentito funzionare quando l'avevano preso in discesa tre signorine vestite allo stesso modo, con calosce splendide, così perfette che veniva da chiedersi come mai quest'oggetto non fosse ancora stato celebrato in versi. Poeti, dove avete gli occhi? Le calosce svedesi aspettano da voi un poema, esattamente come gli impermeabili dai comodissimi cappucci e i portentosi guanti gommati…Quando uscii dal mio torpore e smisi di brontolare queste banalissime idiozie, guardai l'orologio … 
Nina Berberova
Il Giunco Mormorante (1958 - Adelphi, 1990)


But one should not draw the hasty conclusion that I took the elevator: sitting on the bench, I had only heard it working its way down with three young ladies dressed alike, with beautiful galoshes, so perfect that I wonder why this object had not yet been celebrated in verses. Poets, open your eyes! The Swedish galoshes expect a poem from you, just like the waterproof overcoat with comfortable hoods and the wondrous rubber gloves ... When I came out of my numbness and stopped grumbling about these banal nonsense, I looked at my watch … 
Nina Berberova
Мыслящий тростник (Original Title, 1958)



1892 | Helsingborgs Galoscher
Source: Tretorn

1927 | Helsingborgs Galoscher

Wednesday, July 29, 2015

IT'S BIZARRE! | JOHN WILLIE'S FETISH HEELS

1946 | Bizarre magazine Vol.1 #4
Drawing by John Alexander Scott Coutts (A.K.A. John Willie)

I am writing the introduction to the long-awaited reprinting of Bizarre magazine. But it's really about John Alexander Scott Coutts, aka John Willie. Artist, photographer, writer, publisher and banjo player John Willie. I bow down to you. You are the Leonardo da Vinci of Fetish and maybe this publication will give you the recognition you merit.

Eric Kroll
Foreword for The Complete Reprint Of John Willie's BiZARRE (Taschen, 2005)


2001 | Best Of Bizarre
Taschen (Icon Series)

2007 | The Detroit Cobras - Tied & True LP/CD
Rough Trade/Bloodshot Records
Painting & layout Stephen Nawara

2007 | Denyse Beaulieu | Sex Game Book
Editions Assouline


The first time I saw Willie’s work I knew he was the Rembrandt of pulp.

J.B.Rund
From Salon's The Rembrandt of pulp, 2000


1950 (?) | Bizarre
Drawing by John Alexander Scott Coutts (A.K.A. John Willie)

1977 | Fast Floyd And His Famous Firebirds
Bizarre 7"EP (Kadillak Records)
Source: Discogs

1998 | Phantoms Of The Future
Tie Me Up CD (Terra Zone)



Monday, July 27, 2015

CELLULOID HEELS | ANOTHER SHOE ICONS TREAT

1940-1944 | Celluloid heels and soles at the International Footwear Museum of Vigevano
Photograph: Irma Vivaldi

After the in depth study about the cantilever heels, Shoe Icons founder/director Nazim Mustafaev delves into celluloid heels in the same fashion: informative, fascinating and entertaining.

The beauty never ends. Once again I am fascinated by the fact that such a practical, heavy duty part of a shoe can be turned into real piece of art that sometimes outlives the shoe itself. 
Nazim Mustafaev
Shoe Icons' founder/director

The whole article can be read/download at Shoe Icons and deserves your attention: Nazim is making heelstory.
by Nazim Mustafaev



Saturday, July 25, 2015

A.F.A.S.T | TURIN

Giuseppe Sabioni founded A.F.A.S.T. in Turin back in 1921, an entrepreneur coming from Vigevano, the footwear Italian capital. However, the real driving force of the business was his son Andrea, already AFAST's CEO, when Giuseppe died in 1928. Andrea combined the twin power of the leading footwear production areas of the time: Vigevano and Varese, as Andrea Sabioni’s wife Maria Luisa was the daughter of comm. Guido Trolli, Ermenegildo's brother, founder of the main shoe factory in Italy at that time, Calzaturificio di Varese (Guido Trolli served as Calzaturificio di Varese honorary president after his brother's death in 1969). Guido Trolli was also a board member of AFAST. Later, in turn, Andrea Sabioni became a board member at the Calzaturificio di Varese.


A.F.A.S.T.
Turin

The first A.F.A.S.T. trademark is dated 1921, with the name Riry for elegant slippers and shoes. In 1923 the company management did not hide their political orientations giving a production line the name Impera. It was the year after Mussolini’s march on Rome, a blitz that started the fascist period in Italy.

Knighted in 1931, Andrea Sabioni was a member of Turin's fascist group “Dario Pini”, then head of the group “Mario Sonzini”. He later joined the Voluntary Militia for National Security (MVSN) while being 1) director of a section of the Fascist Industrial Union, 2) treasurer of the National Fascist Federation for Leather Industries and 3) president of Shoe Industries Trade Union for the Turin Province. A busy man in all fascist things.


A.F.A.S.T. | Turin
Source: Novus magazine # 14 - 1939


AFAST board of directors was also partial to knighthood: in addition to Sabioni and Trolli there was Enrico Filippini, knighted in 1935 (Technical Director since the birth of the company); CFO Alessandro Fiandra (he later left AFAST to found his own company named Saua Shoes); and company attorney Gustavo Pizzirani.

So, when the autarchy law struck hard AFAST - with an army of knights and fascist connections - managed to keep advertise their delicate kidskin slippers through the pages of fashion magazines coming from the enemy France.


1965 | A.F.A.S.T.
Turin


After WW2 the company moved its headquarter from via Leynì to via Desana and built another production plant in Caluso (Turin greater area).

In the Sixties Andrea Sabioni became an A.N.C.I member, the Italian footwear association and President of the Italian Exhibition of footwear and leather goods of Turin. The AFAST company in the same years developed a joint venture with a Venezuelan company based in Caracas, then in the late Eighties they stopped production right before Andrea Sabioni death in 1990.



1967 | Andrea Sabioni (standing left)
Awarded by Comm.Agostino Puccio with the Gold Medal and diploma of merit for his contribution
and the promotion of footwear art
Source: Catalog of the Footwear Oscar Competition 1967

1967 | Andrea Sabioni (standing in the middle)
President of the organizing committee - Italian Exhibition of footwear and leather goods of Turin
Source: Catalog of the Footwear Oscar Competition 1967


Wednesday, July 22, 2015

1971 | CAMILLE UNGLIK FOR PACO RABANNE | THE ORIGIN OF THE FASHION LUG SOLE

1971 | Camille Unglik for Paco Rabanne
Source: Foto Shoe magazine

Camille Unglik later went to design for Dior assisted by a young student called Pierre Hardy (Hermès). Thermoplastic injection moulding provided by Bernard Deconninck (Tarkett).


1971 | Camille Unglik for Paco Rabanne
Source: Foto Shoe magazine

Lorenzo heard such commentary often when he entered a neighborhood. To the street-challenged eye he did look like some kind of police. If not police, an official, or something more than a meter man. He wore a sky blue shirt with a Humane Society badge pinned to his chest. He wore dark blue cargo pants and heavy black boots with lug soles, useful for climbing fences. He carried no form of protection, either clipped to his belt or concealed.
George Pelecanos
From: Drama City (2005)



FOOTNOTE
Climbing fences with:
Jeffrey Campbell, Windsor Smith, Chicko Shoes
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT:

Monday, July 20, 2015

1935 - 2015 | ELIO FIORUCCI | IN MEMORIAM

1974 | FIORUCCI
Safety Jeans

Friday, September 22, 1978 - Los Angeles

Back to Fiorucci. This time it really was opening. There were 3,000 kids on the street dressed in every form of punk possible, but it’s clean-cut Los Angeles punk. And we were pushed through the crowd, just like going to Studio 54 on a big night. I went behind a counter where they had 300 copies of Interview and I autographed them all. A star of Roots, Levar Burton, asked for one. He was covered in sweat from dancing. They turned the whole thing into a discotheque.

Andy Warhol
The Andy Warhol Diaries (Edited by Pat Hackett, Hachette, 1989)


1978 | Elio Fiorucci & Andy Warhol
Fiorucci Store grand opening - Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills
Photograph by Edo Bertoglio
Source: I'll Be Your Mirror (The Selected Andy Warhol Interviews) - Carroll & Graf, 2004

Wednesday, December 21, 1983 
Went to Fiorucci and it’s so much fun there. It’s everything I’ve always wanted, all plastic. And when they run out of something I don’t think they get it again. It’s the cutest kids, too.
Andy Warhol
The Andy Warhol Diaries (Edited by Pat Hackett, Hachette, 1989)



1970 | Elio Fiorucci & CoGeCa's Vigevano Mr. Paoli (right)
Source: Foto Shoe Magazine

1970 | Fiorucci wool mini dress
Shoes by Celestino's


1970 | WHEN ELIO FIORUCCI BECAME FIORUCCI
MILAN, GALLERIA PASSARELLA

SUCKING IN THE SEVENTIES
FIORUCCI SHOES AT THE VIGEVANO INTERNATIONAL FOOTWEAR MUSEUM

FIORUCCI
AT THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART | NEW YORK




1971 | Boa & pants by Fiorucci
Shoes by Ciro Bisanti (Miano, Naples)

Sunday, July 19, 2015

1975 | WINDOW SHOPPING AT CALZATURIFICIO DI VARESE

1975 | Calzaturificio di Varese

1975 | Calzaturificio di Varese

1975 | Calzaturificio di Varese

1975 | Calzaturificio di Varese

1975 | Calzaturificio di Varese



CALZATURIFICIO DI VARESE
I N D E X



1975 | Calzaturificio di Varese

Monday, July 13, 2015

1961 - 1962 | ATTICA BY FRATELLI RE | VALENZA

1961 | Attica by Fratelli Re
Valenza
Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso magazine

1961 | Attica by Fratelli Re
Valenza
Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso magazine

1961 | Attica by Fratelli Re
Valenza
Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso magazine


THE LOST DISCTRICT
Valenza, Alessandria, Castelnuovo Scrivia, San Salvatore
Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4




1962 | Attica by Fratelli Re
Valenza

1961 | FRATELLI PORTA | VALENZA

1961 | Fratelli Porta | Valenza
Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso magazine

1961 | Fratelli Porta | Valenza
Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso magazine


THE LOST DISCTRICT
Valenza, Alessandria, Castelnuovo Scrivia, San salvatore
Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4




1961 | Fratelli Porta | Valenza
Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso magazine



Saturday, July 11, 2015

1961 - 1962 | FRATELLI PONZONE | VALENZA

1961 | Fratelli Ponzone | Valenza
Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso magazine

1961 | Fratelli Ponzone | Valenza
Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso magazine

1962 | Fratelli Ponzone | Valenza
Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso magazine


THE LOST DISCTRICT
Valenza, Alessandria, Castelnuovo Scrivia, San Salvatore
Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4




1962 | Fratelli Ponzone | Valenza
Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso magazine

Thursday, July 9, 2015

1961 - 1962 | CONDORAL | VALENZA

1961 | Condoral | Valenza
At the XV Bologna Footwear Fair

1961 | Condoral | Valenza
Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso magazine

1961 | Condoral | Valenza
Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso magazine

1962 | Condoral
Valenza

1962 | Condoral | Valenza
Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso magazine

1962 | Condoral | Valenza
Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso magazine


THE LOST DISCTRICT
Valenza, Alessandria, Castelnuovo Scrivia, San Salvatore
Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4





1962 | Condoral | Valenza
Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso magazine