TheHistorialist: December 2016

Thursday, December 29, 2016

(( U P D A T E S ))

1955 | Palizzio
At John Wanamaker | Philadelphia

1956 | Palizzio
At John Wanamaker | Philadelphia

1957 | Palizzio
At John Wanamaker | Philadelphia

1958 | Palizzio
At John Wanamaker | Philadelphia

Sunday, December 25, 2016

CAROL RAMA (1918-2015) | SHOES

1979 | Carol Rama | Shoes
Mixed Technique on Pantone Paper 65x50
Source: Artissima

Hot topic is the way that we rhyme
Hot topic is the way that we rhyme
One step behind the drum style
One step behind the drum style

Carol Rama and Eleanor Antin
Yoko Ono and Carolee Schneeman
You're getting old, that's what they'll say, but
Don't give a damn I'm listening anyway
Stop, don't you stop
I can't live if you stop
Don't you stop

From: "Hot Topic" by Le Tigre
(Mr. Lady Records, 1999)

1936 | Carol Rama | Grandmother Carolina
Watercolour on paper | 24 x 35 cm
Collection CRT Foundation for Modern and Contemporary Art. Courtesy Franco Masoero Editions © Carol Rama
Source: Tate

1932 - 2009
SHOES & ART

1940 | Carol Rama | Opéra n°34
MAM de la ville de Paris du 3/04 au 12/07/2015
Source: The Gaze Of A Parisienne

Friday, December 23, 2016

1970 | CASTEA | SAN LORENZO DI PARABIAGO | PART 2

1970 | Castea
San Lorenzo di Parabiago, Milan
Source: Moda In Pelle magazine

1970 | Castea
With A.B.I.P. leather (Anonima Bresciana Industria Pelli - Brescia)
San Lorenzo di Parabiago, Milan
Source: Moda In Pelle magazine

1970 | Castea
With Russo Di Casandrino leather (Naples)
San Lorenzo di Parabiago, Milan
Source: Moda In Pelle magazine

1970 | Castea
San Lorenzo di Parabiago, Milan
Source: Moda In Pelle magazine

1970 | CASTEA
Part 1

CASTEA | L'ANGELICA
Parabiago, Milan
I N D E X

1970 | Castea
San Lorenzo di Parabiago, Milan
Source: Moda In Pelle magazine

Wednesday, December 21, 2016

1920s | LUIGI PESCHINI | MILAN

1920s | Luigi Peschini, Milan

Lamé silk and golden leather; Spanish heel

Source: Shoe Icons

Based in Via Rastrelli, right behind Milan's Duomo, the Premiata Calzoleria di Lusso (Awarded Luxury Shoemaker) was one of the best shoemakers in Italy in the Twenties and Thirties.

"There's no Italian influence on neither footwear nor clothing in this period. We have to wait the '50s for that, still there were no shortage of great craftsmen, real footwear artists. Excellent bespoke shoes could be bought from Peschini in Milan and Quinté, from which Gabriele D'Annunzio ordered its shoes". [1]

The style inspiration came from Paris and the definition "Awarded" came from the victory of the supreme honor given at an exposition. The medal received with the victory of the "Gran Premio" was reproduced on the insole label.

The shoemaker Peschini is yet another Italian name lost in time: no web presence, almost no info on books, nothing. Only this model survives from Shoe Icons' Nazim Mustafaev great collection.

1920s | Luigi Peschini, Milan

Lamé silk and golden leather; Spanish heel

Source: Shoe Icons

Footnote

[1]

From the essay "Footwear Between The Wars" in: "La Moda femminile Tra Le due Guerre" (Women's Fashion Amid The Two World Wars)
Edited by Caterina Chiarelli (Published by Sillabe, 2000). Trad. TheHistorialist

1920s | Luigi Peschini, Milan - Insole label

Lamé silk and golden leather; Spanish heel

Source: Shoe Icons

Monday, December 19, 2016

1972 | SALVATORE DEODATO FOR ROMEA

1972 | Salvatore Deodato showcased at Milan's 4th MICAM

From Staff magazine, October 1972

Courtesy: Michelangelo Deodato

The platform on the right is probably the most famous Deodato creation from the 1972 collection. The signature see-trough hole was a collaboration with the heel maker VALE from S. Elpidio A Mare. The model was supposed to be lost in time, instead it is kept in four different European museums, appeared in a 1977 British Pathé show and more recently (April 2015) in Selfridges' feature "The 1970s Trend" (below).

It's a different story for the platform on the left, part of the same collection: another unusual sole with a peculiar rounded shape composed of two cork pieces of different colors. Lost? No, found it.

1972 | Salvatore Deodato for Romea

Campagna Lupia, Venice

Courtesy: Martina Faralli

It belongs to fashion collector Martina Faralli who sent us these pictures. Both platform sandals were showcased at Milan's MICAM. An now we expect to see this model popping up from everywhere.

1972 | Salvatore Deodato for Romea

Campagna Lupia, Venice

Courtesy: Martina Faralli

1972 | Salvatore Deodato for Romea

Source: Selfridges Loves The 1970s Trend

They love the trend but didn't acknowledged Deodato nor Romea; on the other hand they let us know that it is a 1973 silver platform from the archives of Sipa Press/REX Shuttershock. Right.

Saturday, December 17, 2016

1969 - 1979 | BARBARA NESSIM | SHOES

1969 | Barbara Nessim
Rainbow Toe and Heel
Source: V&A

Thursday, December 15, 2016

ANDRE PERUGIA UPDATES

1927 | André Perugia
Bottier in Nice & Paris

1921 - 1925 | ANDRE PERUGIA AS SEEN IN LA GAZETTE DU BON TON
PART 1 | PART 2

1921 - 1929 | ANDRE PERUGIA
MASKS | PART 2

1923 | ANDRE PERUGIA
FROM FOOTWEAR TO ART (AND BACK AGAIN)

1925 | MISS SPINELLY
TRUE ICON OF THE ROARING TWENTIES | FEAT. ANDRE PERUGIA | PART 3

1925 - 1926 - ANDRE PERUGIA | THE ORPHIC SERIES
PART 1 | PART 2

ANDRE PERUGIA AT THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART
IT'S A DATE

SERENDIPITY
OOPS. WE HAVE FOUND ANOTHER PERUGIA SHOE

MADAME GANNA WALSKA
HER PERUGIA SHOES AT LACMA

André Perugia
Bottier in Nice & Paris

Tuesday, December 13, 2016

1924 | ANDRE PERUGIA FOR PAUL POIRET | THE ARLEQUINADE SHOE COMPANION

1924 André Perugia
Drawing by Pierre Mourgue
Source: La Gazette du Bon Ton #10

È del 1923 la prima scarpa-maschera ispirata a Modigliani. Un tema - la maschera - sfruttato anche l'anno successivo quando Perugia ne ha proposto una variante con la serie dei modelli con decori a ritagli triangolari. Una citazione di Arlecchino, LA maschera italiana per eccellenza. Anche in questo caso un richiamo al mondo di Poiret. E di Picasso.

The first Modigliani-inspired mask shoe is dated 1923. Right after that Perugia kept exploiting the mask theme as the whole range of models decorated with triangular cut-outs is a reference to Harlequin, THE mask from the Italian Commedia dell’Arte and - at the same time - a nod to Poiret's world. And Picasso's.

1924 | Pablo Picasso | Paul En Arlequin
Portrait of artist's son
Source: Musée Picasso, Paris

1924 | Paul Poiret
Rosine Arlequinade Perfume Bottle
Source: Liveauctineers

1924 | André Perugia
From The Arlequinade Series
Source: Los Angeles County Museum Of Art (LACMA)

1924 | André Perugia
Detail of a full page titled "La Vogue" Des Chaussures de Perugia
Source: Vogue France | October 1, 1924

1956 | Perugia's Arlequinade (1924) highlighted | Detail

Source: Perugia - Poiret Shoe Ideas

1918 or 1956? (double page spread on Vogue magazine)

1920s | André Perugia
Four models with Harlequin mosaic pattern

Da sinistra:

- Tre modelli provenienti dalla collezione della cantante polacca Ganna Walska (pelle o seta con decorazioni metalliche, oggi conservati al Los Angeles County Museum Of Art - LACMA). Solo del primo a sinistra abbiamo la certezza della data (1924); gli altri due - pur del medesimo periodo - potrebbero essere stati realizzati immediatamente prima o immediatamente dopo (punta e tacco differenti, triangoli monocolori).

- André Perugia per Denise Poiret, moglie di Paul Poiret (pelle metallizzata argento - Source: Gazette-Druot). Idem c.s. per la datazione.

From left:

- Three models from the collection of Polish singer Ganna Walska (silk or leather with metallic decorations now at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art - LACMA). We can only vouch for the first one as from 1924: the two others - from the same period - could have been done a bit earlier or a bit later (different toes and heels, one-color triangular pattern).

- Made by Perugia for Denise Poiret, Paul Poiret's wife (Metallic silver leather | Source Douot). Date: same as above.

1921 - 1929 | MASKS BY ANDRE PERUGIA

PART 1

PART 2

PART 3

ANDRE PERUGIA
BOTTIER
I N D E X

FOOTNOTE

1920s | André Perugia For Denise Poiret
From: Denise Boulet-Poiret personal collection
Source: Gazette-Druot

We're happy to report that, from an estimation of $ 400 - 600, the Perugia shoe for Denise Poiret, auctioned by Druot, fetched $ 1,000. Not astonishing, but not bad either.

1924 | André Perugia For Denise Poiret
From: Druot Auction Catalog

Sunday, December 11, 2016

1956 | ANDRE PERUGIA | THE CIRCLET BOOT FOR I.MILLER

Perugia's series of little boots were unmistakably inspired by his designs of the Poiret period. The Demi-Bottine is higher than a pump, lower than a boot. The Button Boot has the look of the earlier style, without the need for a buttonhook. And in the Circlet Boot, mink replaces fringe and Lastex does the job of both leather and shoelaces.

These boots are part of an exhibit of Andre Perugia's old and new designs which he will present tomorrow in the Shoe salon of Carson Pirie Scott & Co.

Evelyn Livingstone | Chicago Tribune | September 26, 1956

1956 | Andre Perugia | The Circlet Boot | Lastex & Mink
I.Miller Dept. At Carson Pirie Scott. & Co. | Chicago
Photograph: Guy Bourdin

Perugia, leading Paris shoe stylist who designs for I. Miller, feels that romantic and dramatic looking booties are right in style with the new winter clothes.

The smartest modern version of an old fashioned style is a “slip-on bootie” made of latex, just like girdles. Slender in shape and of ankle-eight, it is trimmed with a mink cuff for extra luxury.

The Indianapolis Star Sun | February 3, 1957

1956 | André Perugia For I. Miller

1919 (they say) | André Perugia For Poiret
Source: Chicago Tribune

Today Perugia, dean of shoe designers, and head of I.Miller's Paris studio, has brought many of his early Poiret period shoes, plus charming modern adaptations, which I. Miller will present to customers at the 689 Fifth Av. store Monday and Tuesday, Oct.8 and 9 ...

Originals and adaptations to be displayed include fur-topped boots, the demi boot with its '56 version sleeked by the use of new Lastex yarns, a tailored step-in for evening, the flattering little shaped heel, court buckles, Turkish-inspired styles and new metal "free form" heels adding a jewelry look to luxurious' fabric shoes.

New York Post | October 5, 1956

1956 | ANDRE PERUGIA

I.Miller Is The Trend
[Perugia Invents, I.Miller Presents]

The Disappearing Pump for Givenchy
Part 1 | Part 2

The "Cape"

ANDRE PERUGIA
BOTTIER
I N D E X

FOOTNOTE

One of the most striking things about modern shoes, besides their variety, is their comfort and lightness. Take, for instance, a pair of "half boots" as Perugia (Perrugia in the original text) calls them, for wear with the tailored suit.

They are of the thinnest kid, dyed especially to match the color of your tailored suit or its accessories. They fit the foot very exactly, as perfectly as a made-to-order glove fit the hand, and with this delicate fit they envelope the foot as high as the ankle, where they turn over and break into a fringe, which hangs down and flutters as only fringes can.

Sunday Times | September 21, 1924

The Sunday Times date is a more likely than the above mentioned 1919; here's the described fringed boot from the Poiret collection dated 1923 as seen in Comoedia magazine.

1923 | André Perugia | detail
Source: Comoedia magazine

1923 | Outfit by Paul Poiret
Shoes By André Perugia
Source: Comoedia magazine

Friday, December 9, 2016

1955 | ANDRE PERUGIA FOR JACQUES FATH | PART 2

1955 | André Perugia for Jacques Fath
Photograph: Joël Garnier
Source: André Perugia. Collection Privée Charles Jourdan pamphlet

1955 | André Perugia for Jacques Fath | detail
Source: L'Officiel De La Mode # 401/402

1955 | André Perugia for Jacques Fath
Source: L'Officiel De La Mode # 401/402

1955 | André Perugia for Jacques Fath
Source: L'Officiel De La Mode # 395

1955 | Perugia For Fath
Was the insole sticker really necessary?
Original caption:
Sandália de Perugia desenhada para Jacques Fath, em 1953.
At The Exposiçāo Internacional História do Sapato (August 14 - November 7, 2014 - San Paolo)
Source: Classe C Se Diverte

The curators of the Brazilian exhibition date the Perugia model 1953 following the lead of many books. It isn't surprising to find a Perugia model published a few years after it was designed (the model Caprice, for instance) but it is higly unlikely that Jacques Fath - or any other couturier - would have used two-year old footwear for their brand new creations. With that in mind, we stick to the year 1955 as seen in L'Officiel De La Mode.

6 September 1912 - 13 November 1954
Jacques Fath N'est Plus!
Photograph: Jacques Rouchon
Source: Fath eulogy published by L'Officiel De La Mode # 393/394 - 1954

1955 | ANDRE PERUGIA
FOR JACQUES FATH & I. MILLER
THE V THROATLINE

ANDRE PERUGIA
BOTTIER
I N D E X

FOOTNOTE

Look: the heel is radically different!

1955 | André Perugia for Jacques Fath

F/W 2016 | Francesco Russo | Paris
Only $ 995

Wednesday, December 7, 2016

1926 - 1927 | ANDRE PERUGIA & ALPINA TANNERY | THE MODEL 'ROSARY'

1927 | André Perugia | The Model 'Rosary'
Made With Alpina Reptile Skins

Original caption:

This azure/beige kid sandal is decorated with twisted narrow bands of gold and silver kid with a boucle of diamonds and gold.

Vogue France | January 1, 1927

1927 | André Perugia as seen in Vogue
Source: Vogue, January 1, 1927

Perugia association with the tannery Alpina started in 1927 and landed theatrical jobs like "The Forest Of Snakes" starring Mlle. Suzette O'Nil and Jack Forester as the snake hunters.

(The snake hunters both) clad in charming boa and karung clothes leas a delightful battalion of the Tiller's girls also dressed in reptile's skin. The dancing is very animated and harmonizes with the colour and movement of the reptile leather. This touch of art and modern fashion creates an illusion and enriches the staging of plays with new possibilities that will certainly be exploited again on other theatres.

L'Officiel De La Couture | Paris | #79 - 1928

Hardly a cornerstone of theatrical pieces, "The Forest Of Snakes" shows product placement of the highest order but more stylish than today's standard. Long forgotten now and relevant only because Perugia's involvement.

1928 | Alpina Reptile Skin At The Casino De Paris
Jack Forester's trouser by Alpina (the only man on stage)
Shoes Made With Alpina Leather by Perugia (misspelled PERRUGIA)
Photograph: Paris-Plaisirs | Source: L'Officiel de la Mode

1927 | Alpina Has The Vogue As Seen In Harper's Bazaar
Source: Hprints

Alpina was a French corporation with offices in Germany, Great Britain, Italy and of course France. The models shown above may be or may not be Perugias, but the shoe on the bottom left bears a resemblance with the model Caprice.

ANDRE PERUGIA
BOTTIER
I N D E X

FOOTNOTE

The model "Rosary" was first featured back in June 1926 in L'Art Vivant magazine. Its silk version is part of the Metropolitan Museum of Art collection (and still dated 1924).

1927 | Alpina distributed in Italy by Ch. Gery - Milan
Source: Rivista Italiana Calzature

Monday, December 5, 2016

ANDRE' PERUGIA AT THE MUSEE D'HISTOIRE DE LA VIE QUOTIDIENNE | PART 2

André Perugia | Insole label detail

And then the last two models from the MHVQ Collection: both probably from the end of the Twenties: a light blue sandal in glazed kidskin and a pump in red lizard leather.

The T-strap sandal has a double master's touch: an insert of lizard in green tones with the loop created by the strap; it looks like being part of the same collection of the model Rêverie.

Ca. 1929 | André Perugia

We're still processing additional information from the museum in order to provide even more accurate dates.

Just to recap: the "Orphic" models dates were already established and double checked, while the others were assumed due to similarities of details and/or designs: they are not to be considered definitive.

Ca. 1929 | André Perugia

Finally, we would like to thank the museum and especially Madame Apolline Rouget, in charge of the Conservation of Collections and Exhibitions at the Musée d'Histoire de la Vie Quotidienne, for her kind collaboration and invaluable help.

ANDRE' PERUGIA AT THE MUSEE D'HISTOIRE DE LA VIE QUOTIDIENNE
PART 1

ANDRE PERUGIA
BOTTIER
I N D E X

Musée d’Histoire de la Vie Quotidienne
3, rue de l’Ancienne Foire
Saint Martin en Campagne
76370 Petit-Caux

http://www.facebook.com/MHVQmuseedHistoiredelaVieQuotidienne

http://twitter.com/mhvq76

http://plus.google.com/+Mhvq76/

MHVQ