1990 | JUNGJIN LEE | SOLE OF TENNIS SHOE |

1990 | JUNGJIN LEE |
Sole Of Tennis Shoe | Gelatin Silver Print
[From The American Desert Series]
Source: Metropolitan Museum Of Art

SHOES'N'ART
1876 - 2005

In memoria di Enzo Jannacci
[1935-2013]

1925 | ANDRE PERUGIA EVENING SHOES AS SEEN IN VOGUE [NOW AT A MUSEUM NEAR YOU]

1925 | Evening shoes by André Perugia | detail

Published by Vogue | October 1, 1925

Photo by Edward Steichen

Source: Condé Nast

Scarpe da sera di André Perugia in raso argento con decorazione triangolare in strass.

Due paia di questo modello sono conservate in altrettanti musei. Il primo - pelle scamosciata nera e capretto argento, con strass anche sul tacco - si trova al Royal Albert Memorial Museum (Exeter, Devon UK); il secondo - pelle scamosciata beige e capretto argento - dall'altra parte dell'oceano, al Philadelphia Museum Of Art.

Elegant André Perugia evening shoe in a silver satin with a triangular rhinestone ornament. 

Two versions of this model are kept in two different museums. The first - black suede and silver kidskin, with rhinestone decoration on the heels - is kept at the Royal Albert Memorial Museum (Exeter, Devon UK); The second pair - beige sued and silver kidskin - is stored across the pond, at the Philadelphia Museum Of Art. 

1925 | Evening shoes by André Perugia

Published by Vogue | October 1, 1925
Photo by Edward Steichen
Source: Condé Nast

1925 | André Perugia evening shoes

At the Royal Albert Memorial Museum | Exeter UK

Source: La Dulcie Vita

1925 | André Perugia evening shoes
At the Philadelphia Museum Of Art

Source: Philadelphia Museum Of Art

1924-1925 | André Perugia Evening Shoes

As seen in La Gazette Du Bon Ton #8 | Bally Museum Collection

Source: Stepping Out (Powerhouse Publishing, 1997)

1926, January | Callot Soeurs Evening Dress and André Perugia Evening Shoes

As seen in Vogue France

ANDRE PERUGIA
D O S S I E R

ANDRE PERUGIA
INCOGNITO
At The Metropolitan Museum Of Art

1926, January | André Perugia Evening Shoes | Detail

As seen in Vogue France

1969 | CELESTINO'S BOOTS AT THE DUTCH LEATHER AND SHOE MUSEUM

Il Dutch Leather And Shoe Museum (Nederlands Leder en Schoenen Museum) è una miniera per la storia della calzatura italiana del ‘900, grazie ad alcune gare internazionali di design organizzate dal museo stesso e dalle associazioni dei produttori olandesi negli anni '60 e '70.

Questa miniera è oggi in buona parte da riscoprire: errori o lacune nell’archiviazione, e ancor più spesso l'oblio calato su buona parte dei designer, hanno impedito una corretta valutazione e talvolta reso impossibile l’attribuzione dei modelli. 

Inge Specht-den Boer, curatrice e PR del Dutch Leather And Shoe Museum, sta ora lavorando per valorizzare la collezione di scarpe italiane. Le nostre strade si sono incrociate e questa è la nostra seconda collaborazione. La prima la trovate QUI. 

Per entrambe le parti è stata una scoperta appassionante: noi abbiamo ritrovato due paia di stivali che pensavamo perduti per sempre, lei ha scoperto su chi li aveva realizzati e quando. L'anno è il 1969 e gli stivali sono stati disegnati e prodotti da Celestino Colombo, più noto come Celestino’s. 

I campioni ritrovati sono in vernice bianca e materiale elastico impreziosito da ricami. Il tempo non é stato clemente e nell'ultima foto si può vedere com'erano allora e come sono oggi.

E le sorprese sono appena iniziate. 

The Dutch Leather And Shoe Museum (Nederlands Leder en Schoenen Museum) is a precious source for the history of Italian footwear of the XX Century, thanks to some International design competitions organized by the museum itself with the help of the Dutch manufacturers associations in the '60s and '70s. 

This gold mine should be dug up: mistakes or omissions in archiving over the years - and more often designers whose names fade into oblivion - prevented a proper evaluation and sometimes the right attribution of models proved to be impossible. 

Museum's curator/PR Inge Specht-den Boer is now changing all that as she is working to enhance the collection of Italian shoes. Our paths crossed recently and this is our second joint effort. The first one can be found HERE. 

For both sides it was a fascinating discovery: we have found two pairs of boots we thought lost forever, she found out more info about the designer that had made ​​them and when: the year is 1969 and the boots were designed and produced by Celestino Colombo, better known as Celestino's. 

The samples found are in white patent leather and embroidered elastic material. 

Time was merciless and in the last picture you can see how they are today. 

And this is just the beginning!

BOOT #1

1969 | Celestino's

At The Dutch Leather And Shoe Museum

© Nederlands Leder en Schoenen Museum

1969 | Celestino's boots

Source: Moda in Pelle # 6

1969 | Celestino's boots | Detail
Source: Moda in Pelle # 6

Dopo averlo presentato, lo stivale é stato concesso in licenza ad un marchio milanese.

The boot was immediately licensed to a Milane brand.

BOOT #2

1969 | Celestino's

At The Dutch Leather And Shoe Museum

© Nederlands Leder en Schoenen Museum

1969 | Celestino's boots

Source: Moda in Pelle # 6

1969 | Celestino's boots | Detail
Source: Moda in Pelle # 6

Sul blog My Favourite Shoes (in olandese) trovate il resoconto di Inge Specht-den Boer sul ritrovamento degli stivali, le note sui materiali e lo stato di conservazione dopo 44 anni.

The blog My Favourite Shoes hosts the report from Inge Specht-den Boer (Dutch only) about the finding of the boots, notes on the materials and the state of preservation after 44 years.

1969 | Celestino's boots

At The Dutch Leather And Shoe Museum

© Nederlands Leder en Schoenen Museum

Source: My Favourite Shoes

CELESTINO'S
PARABIAGO, MILAN
I N D E X

F O O T N O T E

1970 | Celestino's boot
Showcased at the first MICAM (International Footwear Fair) in Milan

and Celestino's lookalikes

1971 | VIFRA | Milan

Synthetic leather

1972 | Liù by Covizzoli

Vigevano

1940 | ANDRE PERUGIA & PIERRE ROY FOR SAKS FIFTH AVENUE | THE PANCHROMATIC PANTOUFLE

1940 | Shoe and bag by André Perugia for the label PADOVA
Expressly for Saks Fifth Avenue
Painting by surrealist master Pierre Roy
Source:  Vogue | May 1, 1940

1940 | André Perugia

Top left: the famed archless shoe; top right: the Pierre Roy shoe

Source: The Australian Women's Weekly

Instead of beach sandals, Perugia suggests this crocheted string boot in sand-and-sea coloring, with wedge heel. 

Mary St. Claire

The Australian Women's Weekly | September 14, 1940

1940 | André Perugia shoes for the label PADOVA
Expressly for Saks Fifth Avenue
Source: MET 

E quindi, grazie all'articolo australiano ed alla pubblicità su Vogue si riesce a correggere la datazione del Metropolitan Museum of Art: da "ca. 1938" a 1940.

So, thanks to the Australian article and the Vogue ad, we can now amend the date of the Metropolitan Museum of Art from "ca.1938" to 1940.

Perugia/PADOVA shoes
The date is now amended by The Metropolitan Museum of Art

1940 | André Perugia/Padova
From the collection of Melissa Leventon
Photograph by Melissa Leventon
Source: Jonathan Walford/Kickshawproductions 

F O O T N O T E

1940 | Pierre Roy
La Plage (The Beach)
Showcased at Palazzo Strozzi | Florence | February-July 2010 |
Source: Daring To Do

Pierre Roy (1880-1950) é stato un pittore, illustratore e designer francese. Nel 1925 le sue opere sono state incluse nella prima mostra collettiva dei Surrealisti alla Galerie Pierre di Parigi.

Ha disegnato diverse copertine per la rivista Vogue e scenografie per il balletto ed il teatro. Ed é stato a teatro dove ha incontrato André Perugia le cui calzature erano utilizzate in numerose produzioni.

Pierre Roy é morto nel 1950 a Milano mentre visitava la città.

Pierre Roy (1880-1950) was a French painter, illustrator and designer. His work was included in the first group exhibition of Surrealist paintings at the Galerie Pierre, Paris in 1925.

He created several covers for Vogue magazine and designed sets for the ballet and the theatre. And the theatre was the place where he met André Perugia whose shoes were used in many productions. 

Pierre Roy died in Milan in 1950 while visiting.

Pierre Roy Paintings
For Vogue magazine | 1935-1937 |

ANDRE PERUGIA & ANDY WARHOL
FROM FOOTWEAR TO ART [AND BACK AGAIN]
 PART 1 | | PART 2 

1967 | GAMBASSI | MONTEVARCHI (AREZZO) |

1967 | GAMBASSI by F.lli Gambassi
Montevarchi (Arezzo)

CAT.NO.007 | SITTING ON THE DOCK OF eBay | I. MILLER 1956 - 1960 | I. MILLER IS THE TREND |

1956 | André Perugia for I. Miller

The Changeable Heel

I. Miller Is The Trend!

1956 |  I. Miller Is The Trend!
Source: your name here  ___

1956 |  I. Miller Is The Trend!
Photograph by Donald Mack
Source: your name here  _____ 

1956 | I. Miller C'est La Tendance Nouvelle!

Drawing by J. Langlais

Source: H Prints

1956 | I.Miller shoes at I.Magnin
Source: your name here  ___

1957 | I.Miller
The look you look for | Drawing by J. Langlais
Source: HPrints

1957 | The Prophetic Perugia for I. Miller
Photograph by Bert Stern
Source: your name here  ___ 

1957 | I.Miller
Source: your name here  ___

1957 | I.Miller
Photograph by Bert Stern | From The New Yorker
Source: R.Mizrach McClelland

1958 | I.Miller
Source: Couture Allure 

I.Miller

"To balance The Empire, gold medallions on lustrous silk satin woven in France by Cotillion. For late day and resort in gold with sparkling colors." 

1958 | I.Miller
Shoe-Over - A double entendre in suede and calf
Source: your name here  ___ 

1958 | I.Miller
Millerkins
Walkink-suit pump
Source: your name here  ___ 

I.MILLER
INDEX
DeLuxe Shoes

1960 | I.Miller
Millerkins! Jet-Stream
Source: your name here  ___ 

1955 - 1960 | ANDY WARHOL FOR I. MILLER | PART 2

1955 | Andy Warhol for I. Miller

The New York Times, October, 16

Source: oaj.oxfordjournals.org

1955 | Andy Warhol for I. Miller
New Brilliance From Our Evening Glossary
Source: Design Archive

1956 | Andy Warhol for I. Miller

Shades Of Suede!

Source: Design Archive

1958 | Andy Warhol for I. Miller

What's The Great Attraction? A David Evins design

Source: Design Archive

1955 - 1960
ANDY WARHOL FOR I. MILLER
PART 1

ANDY WARHOL
POP ARTisan
IT'S ALL ABOUT SHOES

CA. 1955 | Andy Warhol
Untitled (Pair Of Legs In High Heels)
Ink on Strathmore paper 23 by 16 3/8 in. 58.4 by 41.6cm

1960 | HEELSTORY | THE HEEL ACCORDING TO DELMAN [THUS SPOKE CHRISTOPHER MARLOWE. OR MAYBE NOT]

1960 | DELMAN SHOES At Bergdorf Goodman
Ad designed by REBA SACHIS
Sachis Advertising & Promotion
Source: Design Archives

Il TACCO, ha detto Christopher Marlowe, è stato inventato da una donna che veniva sempre baciata sulla fronte. Innegabilmente il tacco la solleva, dandole appoggio ed elevazione. Non é solo questione di centimetri, ma anche di una misura considerevole di savoir faire. Un tacco DELMAN è un trompe-l'oeil per eccellenza. Accorcia il piede, allunga il corpo, alleggerisce il portamento, ruba centimetri ai fianchi e dona alla figura una dimensione del tutto nuova. Colei che cammina nella bellezza, cammina con tacchi DELMAN.

The HEEL, said Christopher Marlowe, was invented by a woman who was always being kissed on the forehead. Undeniably, it raises her stature, giving her footing and elevation. This is done not by inches alone, but with a sizable measure of savoir faire. A DELMAN heel is a trompe-l'oeil par excellence. It abbreviates the foot, lengthens the body, lightens the carriage, takes inches off the hips, and gives the costume altogether new dimension. She who walks in beauty, walks in DELMAN heels.

F O O T N O T E
Sebbene di provenienza sconosciuta la citazione é di Christopher Morley, non di Christopher Marlowe.

Although unsourced,  the quote belongs to Christopher Morley, not Christopher Marlowe.
[Thank you Tracy!]



HEELSTORY | HEEL HISTORY IN PICTURES
INTRODUCING
HEELSTORY

André Perugia
1948 | Talon à Boules
1951 | It's A Shoe-In |
1956 | I.Miller Is The Trend |
1956 | W/ Mervin Zuckerman | The Twin Patents | Interchangeable Heels for I.Miller

David Evins For I. Miller
1967

Andy Warhol & Gina Shoes
1962 | Wheelstory |

Roger Vivier
1987 | The Giant Wooden Sculptures | Pavillon De Marsan, Paris

Natale Ferrario & Manolo Blahnik
1958 | The Heel-Less Shoe

Aldo Sacchetti
The Fashionable Design Patents

1973 | CARLO TIVIOLI AND ALDO SACCHETTI | MOTORCYCLING STYLE | PART 3/3

1973 | Mink and suede suit by Carlo Tivioli

Boots by Aldo Sacchetti

Hats by Maria Volpi, goggles by Baruffaldi

Source: Ebony Magazine | 1973, October

"C'è qualche motociclista fra voi? Provate ad immaginarvi alla guida indossando visone bianco e pelle scamosciata. Questo è il modo di interpretare il motociclismo da parte di Carlo Tivioli nella sua lussuosa ispirazione per l’autunno. Così si fa!" 

"Motorcycling anyone? Imagine yourself wearing white mink and suede for motorcycle riding. That’s the way Carlo Tivioli sees cycling in his luxurious mood for Fall. What a way to go!" 

[Ebony magazine - Oct. 1973]

“Tutta candida, bianco-neve la collezione di Tivioli che è stata la grande vedette della giornata. Trattati con nuove tecniche i giubbotti in renna solcati da impunture verticali, dominati da maniche, carré e colli in volpe polare sì portano sopra immacolati calzoni serrati al polpaccio dagli stivaletti da motocicletta ornati di borchie metalliche laterali, creati da Aldo Sacchetti. Lo «stile centauro», completato dai dischetti di Maria Volpi e dagli occhialoni cerchiati di bianco di Baruffaldi, ha un suo fascino lunare, fantascientifico.”

"Completely snow-white the collection by Tivioli, today's star. The reindeer jackets with vertical stitching are treated with new techniques and dominated by sleeves, yokes and collars in polar fox, worn on immaculate trousers tight around the calf by motorcycle boots decorated with metal studs on the side, designed by Aldo Sacchetti. The "Biker Style", completed with hats by Maria Volpi and white goggles by Baruffaldi, has its own lunar and science fiction charm."  

[Elsa Rossetti,  Stampa sera, July, 7-1973]

1973 | Tivioli

Photograph: A. Lanzavecchia

ALDO SACCHETTI
I N D E X

Carlo Tivioli & Aldo Sacchetti
Part 1 | Part 2

FOOTNOTE
HERE the way we see motorcycling.





IMPORTANT NOTE
TheHistorialist supports the ongoing anti-fur campaign.

Source: Respect For Animals

LOST & FOUND | 1973 | SALVATORE DEODATO FOR ROMEA AT THE LEATHER AND SHOES MUSEUM | WAALWIJK, NEDERLAND

1973 | Deodato for Romea

[Campagna Lupia, Venice]

Dopo aver parlato di questa incredibile collezione disegnata nel 1973 da Salvatore Deodato per il calzaturificio Romea ed il tacchificio Vale, abbiamo scoperto che un paio di scarpe della collezione é conservato alla Walker Art Gallery, Liverpool. Ed ora, grazie alla segnalazione di Inge Specht-den Boer, curatrice del Nederlands Leder en Schoenen Museum, ne é stato trovato un altro.

Eccolo.

Right after the post about this amazing collection designed in 1973 by Salvatore Deodato for the shoe maker Romea and the heel maker Vale, we discovered a pair of shoes from the collection kept at the Walker Art Gallery, Liverpool. 

And now another one was found thanks to Inge Specht-den Boer, curator of the Nederlands Leder en Schoenen Museum.

Here it is.

1973 | ROMEA (Venice) | Designed by Salvatore Deodato
Metallic blue and yellow kid leather

Source: Nederlands Leder en Schoenen Museum | Waalwijk

E qui Inge Specht-den Boer racconta come ha incontrato Deodato:

Nel 2007 abbiamo acquisito una scarpa chiamata "Salvatore" disegnata da Jan Jansen. Con questo modello Jan omaggiava due dei maestri che ammirava maggiormente: Salvatore Ferragamo e Salvatore Deodato. Il primo non ha bisogna di presentazioni, ma del secondo … nessun indizio. Ho cercato in rete e nel nostro archivio, ma nessuna informazione su Deodato. Naturalmente avrei potuto chiedere a Jan Jansen, ma sapete come vanno queste cose, prima che tu te ne accorga c'é già qualcos'altro di cui occuparsi e ho dimenticato la vicenda. 

Fino a due settimane fa mentre leggevo un'intervista al designer olandese Dick Boons che faceva riferimento a Deodato come una delle principali fonti di ispirazione.

… e pensare che quelle scarpe le ho anche fotografate alla mostra Schuhtick di Bonn: le conoscevo in una versione in pelle metallizzata con colori accesi - rosa, blu e giallo - uno dei modelli di spicco che appartiene alla collezione del Leather And Shoes Museum da molti anni. 

[Il resoconto completo lo si può leggere su My Favourite Shoes. In olandese]

Here Inge Specht-den Boer tells how she met Deodato:

In the year 2007 we acquired a shoe, named 'Salvatore', designed by Jan Jansen. With this shoe, Jan honored two of greats he admired: Salvatore Ferragamo and Salvatore Deodato. The former needs no explanation, of course. The latter however .... didn't ring a bell at all. I surfed the web, checked our library, but found not a single reference to Deodato. Of course I may had asked Jan, but you know how these things are; before you even realize it you're into other things and forget about it completely.

Until a couple of weeks ago, when I was reading an interview with Dutch shoe designer Dick Boons in which he referred to Salvatore Deodato as a great source of inspiration!

… I even made a picture of them (shoes) at the Schuhtick exhibition in Bonn, because I knew those shoes in a flashy color combination of pink, blue and yellow metallic leather. This last combination, in fact, has been one of the highlights of the Leather And Shoes Museum collection for many years. 

[The complete post can be found at My Favourite Shoes. Dutch only]

Image: © Nederlands Leder en Schoenen Museum
Courtesy of INGE SPECHT-DEN BOER
Conservator/Curator - PR | Nederlands Leder en Schoenen Museum | Waalwijk



1973 | SALVATORE DEODATO FOR ROMEA
AND VALE [HEEL MAKER]
ALL THE DETAILS

1973 | SALVATORE DEODATO FOR ROMEA
AT THE WALKER ART GALLERY | LIVERPOOL