Wednesday, November 30, 2016

NO MY FRIEND, THOSE ARE CELESTINO'S

The caption in four languages can't be mistaken: those boots are Celestino's, A.K.A. Celestino Colombo from Parabiago, Milan.
The very same boots are kept at the Nederlands's Dutch & Leather Shoe Museum (D&LSM).

La didascalia in quattro lingue non lascia dubbi: questi stivali sono di Celestino's, alias Celestino Colombo (Parabiago, Milano). Stivali oggi conservati al Dutch Leather & Shoe Museum di
Waalwijk, Olanda (DL&SM).



1969 | Celestino's boots | detail
Source: Moda in Pelle magazine # 6 - 1969


We first published the picture here below when we crossed path with Inge Specht-den Boer, D&LSM curator and PR (2013): she was organizing the archive in order to make their footwear collection available online. We provided information and vintage advertisements and she matched them with the actual Celestino's boots.

La foto qui sotto l'abbiamo pubblicata la prima volta nel 2013 in seguito allo scambio di informazioni con Inge Specht-den Boer, curatrice e PR del DL&SM. Stava lavorando all'archivio delle calzature in previsione della messa online del medesimo. Noi abbiamo fornito informazioni e foto, mentre lei ha trovato i corrispondenti stivali di Celestino's.



1969 | Celestino's boots
Shot at the former Parabiago's Riding Club
Part of the feature "Fashion In Parabiago"
Source: Moda in Pelle magazine # 6 - 1969


So, why are we saying it again? Wasn't it all clear the first time around? It was, but not for a Milanese brand (MB, from now on) who decided to use the picture above, plus a D&LSM picture, and advertise them as their own!

Both photographs were used for a campaign called "We Want You And Your Shoes", an invitation to their customers to bring over everything they might have in order to rebuild their own archive. The campaign was described as a "social call for action" in order to establish the "first example of a shared archive".

Now, the Celestino's photograph was taken from our website - we know this for a fact - without asking and without credits. It wasn't the first time. It was used on both their facebook and Instagram accounts and later for the campaign.

Even worse, they did the same with the D&LSM photograph. The museum sent MB photographs of the Celestino's boots for the only purpose of a book evaluation. The museum didn't authorized any other use, let alone a campaign of any kind.



E quindi perché lo stiamo ripetendo? Non era sufficientemente chiaro? Sì, lo era, ma un marchio milanese (MM da qui in poi) ha deciso di utilizzare la foto in questione - e anche una foto del D&LSM - spacciandole come proprie.

Entrambe le foto sono state utilizzate per una campagna promozionale chiamata "We Want You And Your Shoes", un invito ai loro clienti a fornire qualsiasi oggetto inerente il marchio stesso, per poter ricostruire il loro archivio storico. In italiano contemporaneo l'hanno chiamata "social call for action", meglio definita come "primo esempio di archivio diffuso".

Abbiamo la certezza che la foto di Celestino's é stata presa dal nostro sito, senza chiedere e senza citare la fonte. Non è la prima volta. È stata utilizzata prima nelle pagine facebook e Instagram di MM e successivamente per la campagna di cui sopra.

Peggio hanno fatto con la foto del D&LSM. Il museo ha inviato ad MM alcune foto dei loro stivali Celestino's per il possibile utilizzo in un libro. Nessun altro uso é stato autorizzato, tantomeno per una campagna promozionale.






WHY IS THAT??

Celestino Colombo licensed a boot to MB back in 1969, possibly even manufactured it. We published a low-res photograph of it in 2011 (now removed for good) and of course MB lifted it for their own website with the same M.O. (no asking/no credits). It's fair to say the original boot and the one licensed were very, very similar, so they use it. Brilliant.

At least they made us smile when they clumsily chose the wrong D&LSM photograph. The right one is shown here below. Basically, in addition to all the above, they managed to be wrong twice.


MA PERCHÈ??

Celestino Colombo ha venduto la licenza di un suo stivale a MM nel 1969, probabilmente lo ha anche prodotto. Una foto in bassa risoluzione l'abbiamo pubblicata nel 2011 (ora rimossa) e ovviamente MM l'ha utilizzata per il proprio sito (identica procedura: niente richiesta e niente fonte). È giusto ricordare che lo stivale originale e quello licenziato a MM erano molto, molto simili e quindi lo hanno utilizzato. Brillanti.


Perlomeno ci hanno fatto sorridere quando hanno maldestramente scelto l'immagine sbagliata del D&LSM; quella corretta la mostriamo qui sotto. In pratica, oltre a quanto scritto, sono riusciti a sbagliare due volte.



1969 | Celestino's boots
At The Dutch Leather And Shoe Museum
© Nederlands Leder en Schoenen Museum

As seen in Vogue, wrote MB on their Instagram page. While Glamorous, it wasn't.


To make a long story short, their idea of the "first example of a shared archive" means: we need your stuff (because we don't have a thing) and you better hand it over otherwise we'll take it anyway. In doing so, they managed to disrespect a museum, spat on our work (more than once), and cheating on their customers projecting a phony image of themselves.

As far as we are concerned, we are now MB-free: every single piece of information about them has been removed from TheHistorialist and we feel content about it. It is not far fetched to believe that the Dutch & Leather Shoe Museum thinks otherwise and - rightfully so - proceed differently.


In sintesi, il concetto di "primo esempio di archivio diffuso" significa: ci serve la vostra roba perché noi non abbiamo conservato nulla e quindi consegnatecela altrimenti ce la prendiamo comunque. Così facendo sono riusciti a mancare di rispetto ad un museo, sputare sulle nostre ricerche (più di una volta), per non dire della falsa immagine di se stessi comunicata ai propri clienti.

Per quanto ci riguarda abbiamo rimosso ogni singolo riferimento a MM da TheHistorialist e ci consideriamo soddisfatti. Non é escluso che il Dutch & Leader Shoe Museum la pensi diversamente e - come giusto - proceda in altra direzione.



1970 | Celestino's boot
Showcased at the first Milan's MICAM


FOOTNOTES

[1]
"We Want You And Your Shoes" was reported everywhere; here's what the Roman daily Il Messaggero wrote about it (Italian only):

A team of experts and young researchers from the University of Rome "La Sapienza", will collect the (customers') materials and issue a receipt for the temporary hand over. The customer will be involved in a series of activities to enhance its contribution (interviews, photographs and clips). A gadget will be offered for their important role ..

Eventually, the customers will be contacted for a possible purchase of their shoes or images, and also to check their willingness to lend their treasures for exhibitions and events.

Fine then: we will not fail to deliver to the young researchers of "La Sapienza" all the information to properly file our treasures.
Hey, we want our gadget too!


"We Want You And Your Shoes" é stata ripresa da molti siti; ecco quanto riportato dal Il Messaggero di Roma:
Un team di esperti, giovani ricercatori dell’università di Roma “La Sapienza”, raccoglierà il materiale, rilasciando ricevuta di presa in consegna e coinvolgendo il prestatore in una serie di attività di valorizzazione del suo contributo - interviste, fotografie e filmati - offrendo un souvenir per l’importante ruolo svolto …

I prestatori verranno quindi ricontattati per l’eventuale acquisto delle calzature o delle immagini, ma anche per verificare la loro disponibilità a prestare i loro tesori in occasione di mostre ed eventi.


Bene: a questo punto non mancheremo di consegnare ai giovani ricercatori de "La Sapienza" tutte le informazioni per catalogare correttamente i nostri tesori.
Anche noi vogliamo il souvenier!


[2]

For what it's worth: it's written on the bottom of every single page of this website: "You are free to quote and share our contents and photos, as long as you inform us and link back to TheHistorialist. Permission not granted for commercial purposes."

Per quanto possa valere: in fondo ad ogni pagina di questo sito si legge: "siete liberi di citare e condividere testi e foto previa richiesta e inserimento del link TheHistorialist. Negato l'utilizzo per scopi commerciali."



1969 | Celestino Colombo (Celestino's)
At the Parabiago's Riding Club
Best Seller was Celestino's own shoe factory

Monday, November 28, 2016

1974 | ALDROVANDI | VIGEVANO

1974 | Aldrovandi store
Montecatini Terme, Pistoia
Grand Opening Day

Friday, November 25, 2016

25 NOVEMBER - INTERNATIONAL DAY FOR THE ELIMINATION OF VIOLENCE AGAINST WOMEN

1992 - 2009 | Doris Salcedo
Atrabilarios
Source: Ekphora


Doris Salcedo - Atrabiliarios, 1992 - 2009
In the early 1990s, Salcedo researched the lasting effects of violence through extensive fieldwork across Colombia. During this time, she learned that female victims were treated with particular cruelty and that shoes were often used to identify remains—especially in the context of los desaparecidos (the disappeared). 
In Atrabiliarios, worn shoes—primarily women’s—are encased in niches embedded into the gallery wall, covered by a layer of stretched and preserved animal fiber, and affixed to the wall with medical sutures. The empty boxes are also made of animal fiber and seem to anticipate more deaths to come. The semitranslucent surfaces of the niches obscure their contents, alluding to the fraught relationship between memory and time. 


1992 - 2009 | Doris Salcedo
Atrabilarios
Source: Ekphora

1992 - 2009 | Doris Salcedo
Atrabilarios
Source: Ekphora

1992 - 2009 | Doris Salcedo
Atrabilarios

1992 - 2009 | Doris Salcedo
Atrabilarios

Thursday, November 24, 2016

1967 | PIETRO DAINESI FOR BRUNIS (VIGEVANO)

Nederlands Leder & Schoenen Museum
Dutch Leather & Shoe Museum
Corporate logo by GDFY


Another parade of Italian footwear from the collection of the Dutch Leather & Shoe Museum. Our usual thank you note goes to their curator/PR Inge Specht-den Boer.




1967 | Pietro Dainesi for Brunis by Bruno Barbavara, Vigevano
Patent leather and suede pump with a triple bow decoration

1967 | Pietro Dainesi for Brunis by Bruno Barbavara, Vigevano
Patent leather pump with textile decoration


INTRODUCING
BRUNIS | VIGEVANO


ITALIAN SHOES AT THE DUTCH LEATHER & SHOE MUSEUM

ERCO (VIGEVANO)

C.L.A.M.S. (BOLOGNA)

VINCENZO VALENTINO (NAPLES)

CLEOPATRA (VIGEVANO)



1967 | Pietro Dainesi for Brunis by Bruno Barbavara, Vigevano
Two tones patent leather slip on shoe with side opening

Tuesday, November 22, 2016

1974 | BRUNIS | VIGEVANO

1974 | Brunis
By Bruno Barbavara
Vigevano

1974 | Brunis
By Bruno Barbavara
Vigevano

1974 | Brunis
By Bruno Barbavara
Vigevano

1974 | Brunis
By Bruno Barbavara
Vigevano


Introducing
Brunis | Vigevano

1950 - 1959 | Brunis
Shape Evolution

1955 | Brunis
W/Pirelli Coria Soles

1971 - 1973
Brunis



1974 | Brunis
By Bruno Barbavara
Vigevano

Sunday, November 20, 2016

MY HAND-MADE VIVIER BOOT? UNE FOLIE FINANCIERE, SAID ULTRA VIOLET


Dalì returns to the hotel for his siesta - that’s how he keeps going well into the night with sparkling energy - and drops me at Roger Vivier, the custom shoe and boot maker. I order the most expensive silver leather boots, with square toes and two seams running from tip to top. My feet are measured with infinite care and sketched.
The boots resemble the foreleg of a horse’s suit of armor. I pay seven hundred dollars for the pair, une foile financière, never to be repeated. (I use the money from the commission I receive from selling a Dali sketch.) They turn out to be so excruciatingly painful that I only wear them about three times.

The boots are bought to go with my silver outfit - silver metal miniskirt, silver blazer, silver stockings, silver boots. Sometimes I paint my front teeth silver, streak my hair with silver spray, and wear silver eye shadow. I carry a sterling-silver attache casé. I also have a silver evening coat with a silver-fox collar, silver underwear, handkerchief, nightgown. Make no mistake about it: I will be noticed.


Ultra Violet (AKA Isabelle Collin Dufresne, 1935 - 2014)
From: Famous For 15 Minutes. My Years With Andy Warhol (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt P, 1988)
 

1968 | Roger Vivier | NOT the boot described above
Silver Lamé Platform Cuissard
Source: Aguttes

Gradually, we pieced together that she was from a rich family of glove manufacturers in Grenoble, France, that she’d come to America as a young girl to visit the painter John Graham (co-incidentally in the same building where the Castelli Gallery was), who introduced her around the New York art world, and then when he died, she met Dali, and then she met me, and then she became Ultra Violet.

Andy Warhol
From: POPism by Andy Warhol & Pat Hackett (1980)


1968 | Roger Vivier
Silver Lamé Platform Cuissard
Source: Aguttes

Ultra Violet & Andy Warhol looking at the boot

Friday, November 18, 2016

:: U P D A T E S ::

1956 | Hanes Hosiery | Seamless Stockings
Unknown shoes unfortunately


2013 | ANDRE PERUGIA | EVERGREEN
THE FISH SHOE DESIGN

1955 | NANA BY CHRISTIAN-JACQUE
FEATURING CAPOBIANCO

MARY POPPINS/MARY POPPS | SANT'ELPIDIO A MARE (MARCHE REGION)
HISTORY OF | PART 1

INTRODUCING SALVATORE DEODATO
ITALIAN DESIGNER

1971 | ICAM BOOTS & SILGA GOMMA
DESIGNED BY SALVATORE DEODATO

REBOOTED
MONKEY BOOTS VERSUS DR. MARTENS

1973 | SUPREMELY DANGEROUS
PLATFORM SHOES IN KING'S ROAD | PART 1

1973 | MAJOR CATASTROPHES
WINDOW SHOPPING IN KING'S ROAD | PART 2

PARADISE BOOTERY
A NEW YORK LANDMARK


1956 | Hanes Hosiery | Seamless Stockings
Unknown shoes unfortunately

1956 | Hanes Hosiery | Seamless Stockings
Unknown shoes unfortunately

2010 - 2014
Known brands unfortunately

Wednesday, November 16, 2016

TITANO & SS33 UPDATES

1960 | Birth announcement
Denmark

SS 33 | A.K.A. THE PARABIAGO FOOTWEAR DISTRICT
THE ZAFFARONI COLLECTION

1962 | TITANO
FOOTWEAR OSCAR WINNER

1969 | ADRIANO SCIUCCATI'S TITANO
AS SEEN IN MODA IN PELLE MAGAZINE

TITANO SHOEMAKER TO THE CHAMPIONS
MOTO GP LEGEND GIACOMO AGOSTINI
1970/71 INTER FOOTBALL CLUB

1928 - 1962 | CALZATURIFICIO MONCENISIO
SAN VITTORE OLONA, MILAN

FRATELLI ROSSETTI
YANKEE SHOES

1965 | OLIMPIC TURCONI
FOOTWEAR OSCAR AWARD WINNER 

1969 | OLIMPIC TURCONI
LEGNANO, MILAN

THE SHOE FACTORY ALFIERE
HISTORY OF


1959 | Birth announcement
U.S.A.

1960 | Birth announcement
Germany

Monday, November 14, 2016

1962 | TITANO | WINKLE-PICKERS

After 1956, creepers began to be replaced by black, Italian-style, pointed-toe shoes and this became the basic teenage look of the late fifties and early sixties, especially in the north: blue jeans with turn-ups and, sticking out underneath, winkle-pickers.
Nik Cohn
From: Teds (Ball The Wall - Picador, 1989) 

About half way through my time there (Rome), my cheap Spanish shoes, the upper parts of the soles made from a substance resembling cardboard, disintegrated. The new pair of Italian shoes that I replaced them with had fashionable, pointed toes - called "winkle-pickers" in England - a horrible style for my wide feet, so I suffered foot-wise throughout the rest of my journey home, using band aids on my little toes as sideward shock absorbers.

Terrence Keough
From: My Green Age (Trafford Publishing, 2009)

1962 | Titano winklepickers
Cerro Maggiore, Milan
Source: Zaffaroni Collection

She watched her feet moving over the pavement in their new patent leather Italian shoes with long pointed toes. She loved her winkle-pickers and was a little miffed that Carol hadn't mentioned them.

Isla Dewar
From: A Winter Bride (Ebury Press, 2011)

The insole label of these Titano winkle-pickers indicates Rome, Paris, Berlin, Copenhagen and of course London as the places where to purchase them. So, it's nice to think of some modernists shod in Titanos although we can't say it for sure. All in all, they would have fit perfectly. 


1962 | Titano winklepickers
Cerro Maggiore, Milan
Source: Zaffaroni Collection

1962 | Titano winklepickers
Cerro Maggiore, Milan
Source: Zaffaroni Collection

1962 | Titano
The winklepicker compared to another Titano of the same line/year
Source: Zaffaroni Collection

In Liverpool, Angela was initially attracted by the young Italian waiter's winklepickers, which were made out of soft black leather and were unmistakably stylish.

"I fell for his shoes," she said. She laughed at the memory, running her fingers through her hair.


Clare Pedrick
From: Chickens Eat Pasta (Troubadour, 2015)


TITANO
CERRO MAGGIORE, MILAN
I N D E X

1962 | Titano
Insole label detail
Source: Zaffaroni Collection

Saturday, November 12, 2016

1972 | TITANO AT THE 26TH BOLOGNA FOOTWEAR FAIR

1972 | Titano platform | detail
26th Bologna Footwear Fair

Thursday, November 10, 2016

1971 | TITANO | THE AMAZING DIAMOND TOE

1971 | TITANO Sportwear & TITANO shoehorn
Burgundy patent leather, Pony skin
Source: Zaffaroni Collection

1971 | TITANO | Diamond toe detail
Burgundy patent leather, Pony skin
Source: Zaffaroni Collection

1971 | TITANO | Diamond toe detail
Burgundy patent leather, Pony skin
Source: Zaffaroni Collection

Amazing? Yes. Beautiful? Probably not. However, yet another TITANO exercise in footwear craftsmanship like no other. Only this time we can't say who designed it, even though it looks more like something (Titano's owner) Adriano Sciuccati or Salvatore Deodato could have done. Possibly together.

Like many other times, the only printed reference doesn't help much: one whole page from Ars Sutoria magazine with only the name "Sciuccati" in tiny letters below the shoe. Not even the brand's name. Typical.


1971 | Titano sportwear
As seen in Ars Sutoria magazine #92

1971| TITANO | Diamond toe
Also available in a nice reddish brown without the pony skin
Source: Zaffaroni Collection
Photograph: Matteo Zaffaroni



TITANO
CERRO MAGGIORE, MILAN
I N D E X




1971 | TITANO | Diamond toes
Source: Zaffaroni Collection

Tuesday, November 8, 2016

1970 | TITANO SPORTWEAR DESIGNED BY SALVATORE DEODATO


1970 | Titano | Five eyelet sportwear with cork sole
Designed by Salvatore Deodato
Source: Foto Shoe magazine

1970 | Titano | Three eyelet sportwear with cork sole
Designed by Salvatore Deodato
Source: Zaffaroni Collection

1970 | Titano | Five eyelet sportwear with cork sole
Designed by Salvatore Deodato
Source: Foto Shoe magazine

1970 | Titano | Three eyelet sportwear with cork sole
Designed by Salvatore Deodato
Source: Zaffaroni Collection

1970 | Titano | Three eyelet sportwear with cork sole | detail
Designed by Salvatore Deodato
Source: Zaffaroni Collection

1971 - 1972
More Titanos with cork soles
designed by Deodato

TITANO
CERRO MAGGIORE, MILAN
I N D E X 


1970 | Titano | Insole label detail
Faded but still visible: (Titano's owner) Adriano Sciuccati & Salvatore Deodato
Source: Zaffaroni Collection

Sunday, November 6, 2016

1969 | TITANO | CERRO MAGGIORE, MILAN | PART 1 | THE ASKEW TOES


1970 | Titano
Cerro Maggiore, Milan
Source: Ars Sutoria magazine # 89

1969 | Titano
Cerro Maggiore, Milan
Source: Zaffaroni Collection

1969 | Titano
Cerro Maggiore, Milan
Source: Zaffaroni Collection

1969 | Titano | detail
Cerro Maggiore, Milan
Source: Zaffaroni Collection



1969 | ADRIANO SCIUCCATI'S TITANO | PART 1
AS SEEN IN MODA IN PELLE MAGAZINE

1969 - 1970 | TITANO
THE ASKEW TOES | PART 2

TITANO
CERRO MAGGIORE, MILAN
I N D E X


1969 | Titano | Insole label detail
Cerro Maggiore, Milan
Source: Zaffaroni Collection

1969 | Titano | Quilted insole label | detail
Source: Zaffaroni Collection