TheHistorialist: November 2011

Wednesday, November 30, 2011

1956 | I. MILLER IS THE TREND | ANDRE PERUGIA FOR I. MILLER | THE PATENTED CHANGEABLE HEEL

1956 | PERUGIA invents ... I. MILLER presents
THE CHANGEABLE HEEL

1956 | Perugia for I. Miller

Photograph: Mark Shaw
Source: LIFE magazine - June 25, 1956

1956 | Décolleté scamosciate disegnate da André Perugia, parigino di origini italiane, costruite con un binario sulla suola che consentiva la sostituzione del tacco. Il prezzo originario era di $50, comprensivo di tre paia di tacchi (cfr. foto sotto).

Il meraviglioso tacco sottilissimo in acciaio (a sinistra, brevettato nel 1951) faceva parte di un vasto campionario che poteva essere ordinato a parte [e successivamente copiato senza vergogna].

1956 | Suede cocktail pump designed by André Perugia, Parisienne of Italian origin, and made with a metal track on the bottom along which heels slide on and off. Price was $50 for a package of pumps plus three set of heels [see below].

The gorgeous slender steel heel on the left (Patented in 1951) was part of a wardrobe of heels which could be ordered separately [and eventually shamelessly copied].

1956 | Perugia for I. Miller | detail

Photograph: Mark Shaw
Source: LIFE magazine - June 25, 1956

I. Miller & André Perugia

Source: The Virgin Islands Daily News August 1, 1956

1956 | How To ... | Perugia for I. Miller

Source: LIFE

Il binario di 32 mm consentiva il posizionamento del tacco. Tra le varie decorazioni disponibili: quadri, pois, strass, semi preziosi incastonati, pelle o velluto rossi, capretto oro o argento.

1¼-inch track along which the heel slides into position. Among the heels design: domino, rhinestones, jet-encrusted, red leather, red suede, gold kid, silver kid.

1956 | How To ... | Perugia for I. Miller

Source: Binghamton NY Press

FOR TRIPLE CITIES WOMEN who love shoes — a new device. Andre Perugia, Parisian shoe designer, has concocted an interchangeable heel for I. Miller. Black and red suede shoes come in packages with matching heels plus two auxiliary heels.

You can have your choice of a gold-colored heel, dots, a harlequin pattern, or dressy caviar beading. A bar which curves along the shank of the shoe, undernear the outsole, is the sliding device which makes the quick change possible.

Source: Binghamton NY Press July 15, 1956

U.S. Patent # 2,795,866 | Filed July 31, 1956 - Granted June 18, 1957

André Perugia for I. Miller & Sons

Source: Google Patents

1956 | Perugia for I. Miller

Heel with a lock is inserted into the rail.

Source: Shoe Icons

1956 | Perugia for I. Miller | Black Suede Pumps

Extra set of heels from $ 5 to $ 15 a pair

Source: Shoe Icons

1956 | André Perugia for I.Miller

Source: Ottawa Citizen June 27, 1956

1956 | Perugia for I. Miller

Black Suede Pumps

Source: Shoe Icons

André Perugia
Bottier
I N D E X

Who is Israel Miller?
STEPPIN IN HER I. MILLER SHOES |
A LOST AMERICAN CLASSIC | ISRAEL MILLER | DeLuxe Shoes |

The Chageable Heel Made In Italy
Alberto Dal Cò/Sorelle Fontana
Aldo Sacchetti

1958 | André Perugia helps Jerry Stutz

[president and director of NY's Henry Bendel and
former I.Miller vice president]

Source: LIFE magazine

VINCENT DeLISO | 1897-1971 | IN MEMORIAM

1951 Palter DeLiso, Inc. | New York City

Source: MET Museum

Esattamente quarant'anni fa, 30 novembre 1971, moriva a New York Vincent De Liso. Fu un designer di calzature di lusso e cofondatore, con Daniel Palter, della Palter DeLiso, uno dei marchi più famosi in America negli anni '40 e '50.

40 years ago today, November, 30 1971, Vincent De Liso died in New York. He was a high-end shoe designer and cofounder, with Daniel Palter, of Palter DeLiso Inc., one of the most famous footwear brands in the 40s and 50s.

1950 | The world famed designer VINCENT DE LISO appearing at

Hengerer's | Buffalo

Source: Buffalo Courier-Express February, 12 1950

1936 | Patented Vincent DeLiso Design

1950 | VINCENT De LISO appearing at

The Blum store | Philadelphia

1952 | De Liso Debs at

GIMBELS | Philadelphia

1947 | Palter De Liso

Source: MET museum

SERENDIPITY
Vincent De Liso V/S Gucci

Palter De Liso
At the MET

Tuesday, November 29, 2011

1966 | SIRTORI | S. VITTORE OLONA, MILAN

1966 | SIRTORI

San Vittore Olona, Milan

Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso magazine

1966 | SIRTORI

San Vittore Olona, Milan

Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso magazine

1966 | SIRTORI

San Vittore Olona, Milan

Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso magazine

1966 | SIRTORI

San Vittore Olona, Milan

Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso magazine

1966 | SIRTORI

San Vittore Olona, Milan

Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso magazine

1967 | SIRTORI
SAN VITTORE OLONA, MILAN

SS 33 DATABASE
THE PARABIAGO FOOTWEAR DISTRICT [AND VICINITY]
A WORK IN PROGRESS

1966 | SIRTORI

San Vittore Olona, Milan

Source: Calzature Italiane di Lusso magazine

Monday, November 28, 2011

SS33 | FRANÇOIS VILLON DE BENVENISTE FOR I.T.S. ARTEA [PARABIAGO, MILAN]

1974 | François Villon De Benveniste

(Source: L'Officiel de la Mode)

François Villon De Benveniste (1911-1997) fu un celebre calzaturiere francese attivo principalmente fra gli anni ’60 e ’70, allievo di André Perugia e di Paul Poiret a Parigi, nominato “Bottier de la Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture” e adorato dai più importanti stilisti francesi e dalle dive americane. La produzione delle sue calzature avveniva interamente in Italia (il principale produttore dei suoi stivali in pelle fu Ottorino Bossi, ma Villon lavorava anche con altre sei aziende, per un giro di affari di 11 miliardi di lire nel 1972, come raccontò in un'intervista ad Epoca).

Nei primi anni ’70, insieme ad altri importanti designers come Roger Vivier e Andrea Pfister, anche François Villon si dedicò alla sperimentazione coi nuovi materiali sintetici. Con queste foto la I.T.S. Artea, a quei tempi attiva in Corso Sempione a San Lorenzo di Parabiago, presentò i nuovi materiali Aerlak e Aertex con i modelli disegnati da Villon.

François Villon De Benveniste was a famous French shoemaker active mainly between the 60s and 70s, pupil of André Perugia and Paul Poiret in Paris. He was appointed “Bottier de la Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture” and adored by the most important French designers and American divas. The whole production of his shoes was made in Italy and the main producer of his leather boots was Ottorino Bossi.

In the early '70s, along with other leading designers such as Roger Vivier and Andrea Pfister, François Villon tested the new synthetic materials. Here's how the factory I.T.S. Artea (from San Lorenzo di Parabiago, Milan | SS33) showcased the new materials Aerlak and Aertex with the boots designed by Villon.

1971 | François Villon for I.T.S. Artea |
Parabiago, Milan

ITS ARTEA
1970-1971

Saturday, November 26, 2011

1979 | THESE DENSON SHOES WERE MADE TO BE STOLEN | JOE JACKSON & BRIAN GRIFFIN | TBAMFW # 15

Segnalate nella primissima serie These Boots Are Made For Walking, qui trovate l'intera sessione fotografica.

"Look Sharp!" was featured on the first These Boots Are Made For Walking series; now enjoy the whole photo session.

Joe Jackson
1979 - Look Sharp! (A&M)

1978 | The original photo

Courtesy Brian Griffin

Il celebre scatto é di BRIAN GRIFFIN, fotografo di Birmingham che ha iniziato come freelance nel 1972. Tra le sue molte copertine vanno ricordate: Soldier (Iggy Pop); Crocodiles, Heaven Up Here, Ocean Rain (Echo & The Bunnymen); Aural Sculpture, No Mercy (Stranglers); Be Stiff (Devo); A Broken Frame, Some Great Reward (Depeche Mode).

É anche stato regista in molti video musicali e pubblicità televisive. Nel 2004 ha diretto il documentario su Sir Paul McCartney. Le sue foto sono state pubblicate da The Face, Time Out, L'Uomo Vogue.

The famous shot was taken by BRIAN GRIFFIN, UK photographer (Birmingham) who started as a freelance back in 1972. Among the many records covers: Soldier (Iggy Pop); Crocodiles, Heaven Up Here, Ocean Rain (Echo & The Bunnymen); Aural Sculpture, No Mercy (Stranglers); Be Stiff (Devo); A Broken Frame, Some Great Reward (Depeche Mode).

He is also a director in many music videos and TV commercials. In 2004 he directed the documentary about Sir Paul McCartney. His photos appeared on The Face, Time Out, L'Uomo Vogue.

Joe Jackson - 1979 - Look Sharp!
Back cover credits: Shoes By Denson (the last credit)

Joe Jackson: "Volevo una foto delle mie scarpe Denson perché le avevo acquistate giusto il giorno prima. Brian Griffin ha scattato un paio di foto come parte di un'intera giornata trascorsa lavorando sui soliti ritratti. Non voleva essere la copertina, ma quando abbiamo visto le stampe l'idea é piaciuta a tutti. Il direttore artistico (Michael Ross NdR) le ha prese in prestito e non le ho più riviste".

Joe Jackson: "I think we just wanted a photo of my Denson shoes because I'd just bought them the day before. Brian Griffin took maybe one or two shots of them as part of an entire day spent doing more typical portrait shots. The shoe shot certainly wasn't planned or intended to become the cover but when we saw the contact prints, everyone liked the image. The art director (Michael Ross) borrowed them for marketing purposes and I never did get them back."

Courtesy Super Seventies

Joe Jackson
1978 - Is She Really Going Out With Him? / You Got the Fever (A&M) UK Edition

Joe Jackson
1978 - Is She Really Going Out With Him? / You Got the Fever (A&M) US Edition

Sino a metà degli anni '90 le scarpe sono rimaste nell'ufficio di Pauline Rapp, assistente personale di Jerry Moss, (cofondatore A&M insieme al jazzista Herb Albert) poi con le successive incorporazioni si sono perse le tracce. [Fonte: Super Seventies]

Until the mid Nineties the shoes were kept at the office of Paulette Rapp, executive assistant to label chairman Jerry Moss (also A&M cofounder with jazz player Herb Albert). Then vanished again after the label was bought by Polygram. [Source: Super Seventies]

Los Dragos/The Hi-Fi Killers
2005 - Split 7" (Jacob Records-Nicotine records)

Copertina tributo dei francesi Hi-Fi Killers (garage/power-pop); nel video del brano "Get A Move On" le scarpe bianche ci sono, ma non sono Denson.

Cover tribute by the French Hi-Fi Killers (garage/power-pop); the white shoes in the video "Get A Move On" aren't Denson.

MANY THANKS TO
SLEEVEAGE

THE EVERGROWING LIST
THESE BOOTS ARE MADE FOR WALKING
THE COLLECTED SERIES

Friday, November 25, 2011

1958 | TOSCA | PARABIAGO |

1958 | The Shoemaker TOSCA | Fratelli Mezzanzanica |

Parabiago, Milan

Thursday, November 24, 2011

ARMANDO POLLINI | 1971 | THE NEW TEAM & EXPORT UNO/DUE COLLECTIONS | MEXICO CITY

1971 | LE COLLEZIONI NEW TEAM ED EXPORT UNO/DUE DISEGNATE DA ARMANDO POLLINI | MEXICO CITY

[ENGLISH TEXT BELOW]

1971 | New Team Shoes |
Designer Armando Pollini

Il suo primo progetto di scarpa risale al 1958. In piena epoca di tacchi a spillo, Armando Pollini scelse le scarpe basse. Un preludio al minimalismo ed alla comodità delle sue calzature stretch, per cui negli anni Ottanta e Novanta si guadagnò l’appellativo di “Re dell’Elast”. Fra i due momenti ci furono la partecipazione a un’Olimpiade (a Roma nel 1960 per correre i 400 metri) e tanti successi internazionali, tra cui gli zatteroni con suola in poliuretano e successivamente le scarpe Candies degli anni ‘70.

Fra la fine degli anni '60 ed i primi '70, Pollini contribuì in misura importante a sviluppo e diffusione delle calzature nei nuovi materiali sintetici disegnando per ben dieci calzaturifici che producevano su larga scala sia per l’Italia che per l’esportazione. Fra questi i calzaturifici New Team di Ermanno Tiramani ed Export Uno e Due. La presentazione delle loro collezioni del 1971 fu il pretesto per un viaggio a Città del Messico, fra mariachi e la statua di Tlaloc, la divinità azteca della pioggia, oggi al Museo nazionale di Antropologia di Città del Messico.

1971 | New Team Shoes | Designer Armando Pollini |
Background: Tlaloc (Aztec God of Rain)

1971 | New Team Shoes |
Designer Armando Pollini

1971 | Export Due Boots |
Designer Armando Pollini

1971 | Export Due Boots and New Team Shoes |
Designer Armando Pollini

His first shoe project was in 1958. When the high heels were riding high, Armando Pollini’s choice went the other way. Flat shoes: a prelude to comfort and minimalism of his stretch shoes, for which he earned the name of "King of Elast" in the ‘80s and ‘90s. In between times, he took part in the Olympics Games (Rome 1960 to run the 400 meters) and had other international hits, particularly with the platform shoes with polyurethane soles and the Candies shoes of the '70s.

Between the late '60s and early '70s, Pollini contributed hugely to development and diffusion of shoes in new synthetic materials, designing for ten shoe factories that produced on a large scale both domestically and internationally. Among these shoe factories, the New Team owned by Ermanno Tiramani and Export Uno and Export Due.

The presentation of their collections in 1971 was the pretext for a trip to Mexico City, among mariachis and the statue of Tlaloc, the Aztec God of Rain, now at the National Museum of Anthropology in Mexico City.