1957 | ANDRE PERUGIA'S PARADOX FOR I.MILLER | THE OPEN/CLOSED LOOK

1957 | Andre Perugia
The Paradox For I.Miller | detail

The PARADOX by I. MILLER 
What is a fashionable paradox?
The shoe that’s both open and pointedly closed at the toe … a never-before silhouette created by André Perugia for I. Miller. Like eating-your-cake-and-having-it-too, Paradox blends the flattering open toe and elegant closed taper.

I. Miller advertisement
Arizona Republic - October 28, 1957


1957 | André Perugia | Detail
Patent filed March 11, 1957 - Granted September 8, 1958
Source: INPI (Institute National de la Propriété Industrielle - France)


Generally the barefoot shoes have the disadvantage that the foot slides easily forward so that the ends of the toe fingers protrude from the tip of the sole, which is very unsightly.

To this end, the present shoe is mainly characterized by an extension having a projecting part preferably profiled like the tip of a city shoe and of which the back part of it forms a rest for the toe fingers.


André Perugia
March 11, 1957
(From the patent paperwork)



Les chaussures féminines dites pieds nus présentent généralement l'inconvénient que le pied glisse facilment vers l'avant de telle sorte que les extréités des doigts de pied débordent par rapport au bout de la semelle, ce qui est fort disgracieux.

A cet effet, la présente chaussure est caractérisée principalement en ce qu'elle comporte, au-delà de l'emplacement qu'occupent normalement les extrémités des doigts de pied, un prolongement présentant une partie saillante préférablemnt profilée comme le bout d'une chaussure de vilel et dont la face postérieure forme butée pour les dits doights.


André Perugia
11 Mars, 1957


1957 | André Perugia
Above: Patent drawing detail
Below: André Perugia | Blue Canard Satin

1957 | André Perugia
Perugia For I.Miller | detail
Source: Metropolitan Museum of Art

Patent drawing detail
Source: INPI (Institute National de la Propriété Industrielle - France)



"André Perugia has just created a collection that responds to the avant-garde trends of tomorrow's fashion. It is the "French look" line with the curved profile, which without hindrance of the foot, presses lightly on the ground, gently sloping at the end of the shoe. The heel height refines the leg revealed by the very short skirt. More open shoes, or better, a small firm end that holds the foot and forms a base where the fingers rest in abandonment.

A line revolution highlighted by frequently mixed materials: kid and silk, varnished and reptile. Also fabrics take place in this collection: elastic fabric, silk, cotton and nylon blends, brocaded ribbons and a woven metal."


L'Art Et La Mode | 1958




“André Perugia vient de créer une collection qui répond aux tendances d’avant gard de la mode de demain. C’est la ligne “french look” au profil galbé, qui sans gêner le pied, appuie légèrement au sol, en pente douce, le bout du soulier. La hauteur du talon affine la jambe que découvre la jupe très courte. Plus de bouts ouverts, mais au contraire un petit bout plein qui retient le pied et forme un socle où les doigts reposent dans un abandon aisé.

A cette revolution de la ligne s’ajoute celle des matières fréquemment mélangées: chevreau et soie, verni et reptile. Le tissue intervient souvent dans cette collection, tissue elastique, soie, mélanges de coton et nylon, rubans brochés ainsi qu’un tissé de metal.”


L'Art Et La Mode | 1958



1957 | André Perugia
Pair of shoes auctioned for € 550 | June 2013
Source: Cornette De Saint Cyr, Paris

1957 | André Perugia for I.Miller
Source: Metropolitan Museum of Art (Gift Of I.Miller Inc.) - Dated Mid-Fifties

1957 | André Perugia
At Museo Rossimoda | Photograph: Dives-Gianfranco Brusegan - Dated 1952
Source: Scarpe! (Rizzoli, 2010)



ANDRE PERUGIA
BOTTIER




1957 | André Perugia
Patent filed March 11, 1957 - Granted September 8, 1958
Source: INPI (Institute National de la Propriété Industrielle - France)


 

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