1965 | ROGER VIVIER | DESIGN FOR A BUCKLED SHOE | VIVIER FOR YSL & CATHERINE DENEUVE

ROGER VIVIER | PROJET DE SOULIER À BOUCLE

DESIGN FOR A BUCKLED SHOE

Gouache On Paper | Source: Aguttes

Chiaro, semplice e senza fronzoli: "progetto di scarpa con fibbia". Niente pomposità inutili: Roger Vivier in estrema sintesi. La pilgrim di Vivier fu realizzata nel 1965 per accompagnare la collezione di Yves Saint Laurent ispirata a Piet Mondrian

Design for a buckled shoe. No frills and to the point. No inflated marketing lingo, nor glossy statement. That's Roger Vivier. Vivier's pilgrim was made in 1965 for the Mondrian-inspired collection by Yves Saint Laurent.

ROGER VIVIER | SOULIER [SHOE]
Crayons On Paper | Source: Aguttes

ROGER VIVIER

1965 | Roger Vivier for Yves Saint Laurent
Source: Heavenly Soles | Mary Trasko

1965 | Vogue Paris | September Issue
Photo by David Bailey | Source: Youthquaker

1965 | Novella Magazine (Italy)
September, 26

1965 | Novella Magazine (Italy) | Detail

September, 26

1967 | How Do You Improve On A Classic?

The buckled shoe at Saks Fifth Avenue

Source: The Pittsburgh Press | April 1967

I modelli pilgrim esistevano già, ma il successo della scarpa di Vivier fece immediatamente diventare questo modello oggetto di copie ancor prima che lo calzasse Catherine Deneuve nel film di Luis Buñuel "Bella Di Giorno" (1967).

Pilgrim models were nothing new, still Vivier's pilgrim was immediately knocked-off by other brands even before Buñuel's "La Belle De Jour" (1967, starring Catherine Deneuve).

Pumps & Slippers
1966 | En VOGUE
July (left) | September (right)

1967 | Still frames from Belle De Jour | Directed by Luis Buñuel

Catherine Deneuve's feet and a nice sock

MONSIEUR ROGER VIVIER FOR PRINCESS SORAYA
FROM THE AUCTION: "ROGER VIVIER. PERSONAL COLLECTION. 50 YEARS OF CREATIONS"

ROGER VIVIER
EXPERIMENTS WITH DU PONT'S CORFAM

FOOTNOTES

01

I due disegni di Roger Vivier fanno parte del lotto andato all'incanto presso la casa d'asta Aguttes lo scorso novembre 2011: il primo é stato venduto per € 2.550, il secondo per € 1.913.

The two Vivier drawings were part of the lot sold at the auction house Aguttes (November 2011): the first fetched € 2.550, the second € 1.913.

É opinione comune che Yves Saint Laurent sia stato il primo a riprendere i temi di Mondrian. Non é così: prima di lui c'era arrivata Sally Victor (1962). E l'anno prima i temi erano comparsi sulle calzature, grazie all'americana I. Miller, così come annotato dallo storico/collezionista Jonathan Walford. Il primo Tableau di Piet Mondrian é datato 1921.

It's common thought Yves Saint Laurent was the first to adopt Mondrian themes into fashion: far from it. Sally Victor predated YSL by three years (1962) and shoe maker/retailer I. Miller by four (1961 - as pointed out by historian/collector Jonathan Walford).