1936 - 2016 | KENZO, YOU CANNOT BE SERIOUS

There were slouchy camouflage pants, oversize barn jackets, and raw denim jackets that had a certain cool polish that was amplified by the metallic spiral-heeled shoes, an off-kilter twist on the classic disco sandal. 
Chioma Nnadi | October 2016, Paris
Vogue

2016 | Kenzo (S/S 2017)
1953 | André Perugia
Photograph: UP Photos
Source: Il Costume e la Moda


Humberto Leon and Carol Lim kept the shoe designs simple. Metallic rope crossed uppers were paired with unconventional metallic heels look like coiled spring, spiraled up in a cone shape, like the freshly curled hairstyle back in 70’s.
 

1936 | The corkscrew heel (bottom right and - reflected - top left)
All André Perugia models

Courtesy: Shoe Icons

CORKSCREW YOU

The heel shaped "like a freshly curled hairstyle back in 70's" was designed by André Perugia in 1936. The press photograph was a touch of genius much like Perugia's creations: the unknown photographer (ACME Agency) left the heel hidden in plain view.

In 1953 Perugia resurrected the corkscrew heel as part of a metal-shanked collection showcased at Saks Fifth Avenue.

Now, wait a second, 1936 - 2016 makes 80 years: hey Kenzo, you are celebrating the anniversary, don't you?


ANDRE PERUGIA
BOTTIER
I N D E X


1936 | Model Mary Palermo shod in Perugias
ACME Press Photo
Courtesy Shoe Icons

FOOTNOTE

Apparently no one noticed, which says a lot about the current state of fashion journalism; no one but a nice little Pinterest board run by shoe designer Guillem Turró Casanovas.

 

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