1950s | PIERRE CARDIN AND ANDRE' PERUGIA

1959 | Pierre Cardin at work
Source L'Officiel de la Mode


I destini di André Perugia e Pierre Cardin si incrociano a inizio anni '50: Perugia, prossimo alla sessantina, vantava un invidiabile e ultra trentennale successo in ambito calzaturiero, mentre Cardin (già premier tailleur con Dior fino al 1950) non era ancora trentenne ma già con esperienze presso Elsa Schiaparelli e Paquin. Erano entrambi di origine italiana e la loro collaborazione si protrasse sino alla fine degli anni '50.

André Perugia and Pierre Cardin paths crossed in the early 50s: Perugia, pushing sixty, boasted a remarkable success in the field of footwear while Cardin (formerly premier tailleur at Christian Dior until 1950) was not yet thirty years old but already with experiences with Paquin and Elsa Schiaparelli. They were both of Italian origin and their collaboration lasted until the late '50s.



1958 | André Perugia for Pierre Cardin
"The toe is narrow, rounded and flattened but has a pinched-in appearance 
similar to the neck of  a spoon"


Insieme svilupparono l’abbinamento fra la linea a cono, ampia, con le spalle morbide e la gonna appena sotto il ginocchio, dove le scarpe sottili dovevano portare equilibrio per contrasto:
“La punta è stretta, arrotondato e appiattito ma ha un aspetto pizzicato in simile al collo di un cucchiaio. Dà un effetto più lungo, più delicato” 
[Pierre Cardin in Sunday Herald Magazine, 22 Set. 1957]

Un altro esempio di "riequilibrio" era l'intaglio rettangolare creato nella tomaia del modello “Hoop”: alleggeriva la scarpa e metteva in risalto la forma del cappotto che accompagnava.



Together they developed the combination of the conic line, wide, with soft shoulders and the skirt just below the knee, where the shoes had to balance the outfit by contrast:
“The toe is narrow, rounded and flattened but has a pinched-in appearance similar to the neck of a spoon. It Gives a longer, more delicate effect”  
[Pierre Cardin - Sunday Herald Magazine, Sept.22, 1957]

Another example of "balancing" was the rectangular notch that Perugia made in the vamp of the model "Hoop" to lighten the shoe and emphasize the shape of the coat by Cardin.



1959 | André Perugia for Pierre Cardin | The "Hoop" Model
Source: L'Officiel

1954 | Overcoat by Pierre Cardin and shoes by André Perugia
Source: L'Officiel

1954 | Shoes by André Perugia - detail

1958 | White wool coat by Pierre Cardin | Shoes by Perugia
Photo by Georges Dambier, 
From ELLE magazine

1958 | André Perugia  | Detail

1958 Pierre Cardin fur design for J.Léonard et Cie. 
Shoes by André Perugia
Source: L'Officiel

________________

ANDRE PERUGIA
D O S S I E R
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1958 | Overcoat designed by Pierre Cardin for Fred Carlin. 
Shoes by André Perugia
Source: L'Officiel


 

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