1938 | ANDRE' PERUGIA | THE DRAPED HEEL

November 23, 1938 - Paris

A few days after the dramatic Kristallnacht - the night of terror unleashed by Goebbels against the German Jews - the front page of the French newspaper Paris Soir enthusiastically celebrated the Munich agreement with Hitler, which allowed Sudetenland's takeover while Europe turned a blind eye to the German domestic affairs.



1938 | André Perugia - Padova
Sandal with draped heel 
On display at the Footwear Museum of Vigevano, Gift of Yvette Lafaury
Photograph: Irma Vivaldi

On a completely different note, on page 2 of the same daily, an ad announced the latest news by André Perugia : the draped heel. The model above belongs to the International Footwear Museum of Vigevano; another one is kept at the Musée International de la Chaussure, Romans.


1938 | November, 23 | Paris Soir 
"Perugia, 2 rue de la Paix,
launches the draped heel. This model and all its variations are protected by international patents 
to pursue counterfeiting"



André Perugia | US Patent No. 111858
Filed Sept 8, 1938 | Granted Oct. 25, 1938

“No more thick-soled shoes are displayed at Schiaparelli, for which the Lord be thanked.”

Thus spoke The New Yorker celebrating the US debut of the Schiaparelli collection (with Perugia shoes) in March of the following year. The draped heel existed at least in three adaptations: the one at the International Footwear Museum of Vigevano plus two for which only patents/drawings, or photos, survived.


1939 | André Perugia | Detail
Source: Harper's Bazaar

1938 | André Perugia - Padova
Sandal with draped heel 
On display at the Footwear Museum of Vigevano. Gift of Yvette Lafaury
Photograph: Irma Vivaldi

1938 | Perugia - Padova at Saks Fifth Avenue | Detail
Source: Harper's Bazaar, November 1938

1938 | André Perugia | The Draped Heel
Source: Le Figaro November 17, 1938

A new version of the draped heel below reappeared at the beginning of 1952 as part of a traveling exhibition of artistic Perugia shoes all over the United States from one I.Miller store to another.


1938 | Perugia - Padova
Shoe with draped heel
Source: YOUR NAME HERE



André Perugia | US Patent No. 111857
Filed Sept 8, 1938 | Granted Oct. 25, 1938


______________________

ANDRE PERUGIA
D O S S I E R
______________________

André Perugia | US Patent No. 111856
Filed Sept 8, 1938 | Granted Oct. 25, 1938



FOOTNOTE
According to O'Keffe's Shoes: "(Perugia) transformed Josephine Baker's trademark turban into a quilted kidskin sandal, and he fashioned black lace heels for movie siren Gloria Swanson."

It could be true - the turban, that is - however, the patents above amend the date (1928) and push it forward by ten years.

Now, don't get the wrong impression: we like O'Keeffe's Shoes - it's a useful book - but we've been put on the wrong path so many times by wrong dates and inaccurate information that is embarrassing. Time for a revised edition. Pronto.


André Perugia | "Turban" sandal, 1928 | The Draped Heel, 1938
From: Shoes. A celebration of pumps, sandals, slippers & more.
By Linda O'Keeffe - Workman Publishing, 1996

1939 | André Perugia | Detail
Source: Harper's Bazaar

 

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