In this fantastical interpretation of footwear, Arpad presents an intensely inventive and unique rendition of the platform sole, an important feature at the time. Although the source of inspiration is not known, the arched supports strongly recall building or aqueduct forms, underlining the parallel numerous clothing designers have made between fashion and architecture.
METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART, NY
1939 | Steven Arpad | The Viaduct-Style
Source: Shoes - Linda O'Keffe (Workman Publishing, 1996)
1972 | Enzo Albanese (AKA Albanese Of Rome, Enzo Of Rome)
The Roman Viaduct-Style
September 5, 2012
Hello,A friend sent me your site with the article about my father, and I am so pleased to have you interested and to be looking for me.
I left NYC after he died, and moved south to Atlanta, Georgia to care for my mother who was terminally ill. I stayed here and no longer do fashion design.
Please email me back as I would enjoy sharing with you about my father.James
The pavee jewelling technique was invented by my father, and he had done the jeweling for the Marilyn shoes for Ferragamo, but the magazine did not credit him, they just said Swarovski.
I remember a particular Women's Wear Daily article from the 50's or 60's that wrote about my father inventing the art of Pavee crystal application, and how he was doing jeweled shoes as well as handbags and jewelry with it. It may be available online before I find it in my warehouse.
From the personal wardrobe of Marilyn Monroe
Salvatore Ferragamo rhinestones encrusted pump
Sold at Christie's for $ 48,000 to Wanda Ferragamo
Source: The Marilyn Monroe Collection
Arpad, with a long career in creative fashion in Paris and New York, is the originator of several new techniques in making jewelry and other accessories.
One is called "pavee", which is the cementing of stones or other materials on leathers, fabrics, furs and cotton to make designs or jewelry. Another process is called "emaux", a chemical method of applying color to materials to give them a porcelain, mosaic or ceramic look. And a third, without a name yet, gives leather a surface finish in florals, geometric, abstracts, any design Arpad works out...
Arpad does jewels and other accessories for the fashion collections of such designers as Norman Norell and Pauline Trigere. For Miss Trigere's fall and winter collection he used "pavee" on furs and evening clothes. to get an idea of the paste-up job involved Arpad said one triangular stole at trigere's alone used 54,00 stones. His factory has some 160 persons doing the various treatments.
Gay PauleyUnited Press International/Eugene Register Guard | August 23, 1964
Beth Levine collaborated with Steven Arpad, a rhinestone specialist working with Balenciaga in Paris, to make the first fully jeweled shoe. When Beth wore a pair of prototypes aboard a ship to Paris, buyers saw them and they became a sensation before she even returned home.
Helene Verin(Beth Levine Shoes - Stewart Tabori & Chand, 2009)
1963 | Evening Shoe, Pavé | Beth Levine
Satin, black, gold copper and clear rhinestones in tiger pattern, leathe sole and lining
Source: Beth Levine Shoes - Stewart Tabori & Chang, 2009
1956 | Steven Arpad | Gilded heels
Photograph: Ernst Beadle
In the meantime we managed to find bits of information about James Arpad who followed his father's step as a jewelry designer.
Red lapel ribbons, like those worn during the Academy Awards presentation to show support in the struggle against AIDS, are still being seen around town, including a glittery jeweled version.
The beaded pins are the work of James Arpad, a jewelry designer, who is donating the profits to an AIDS charity. "I thought I would take it one step further and make it something of permanence," Mr. Arpad said. The pins are handjeweled with Austrian crystal pave on leather, to approximate the feeling of the ribbon.
"A few people wore them at the Oscars, including Richard Pryor," Mr. Arpad said. "And Elizabeth Taylor wore one at last week's Amfar benefit." Originally created by a group of artists in downtown New York about a year ago, the red ribbons have become a fashion accessory.
Mr. Arpad's version cost $100 and can be ordered by calling ----- The profits will be donated to the Design Industries Foundation for AIDS.
Woody HochswenderThe New York Times - April 21, 1992
Red Ribbon Appeal
1989 | Earrings by James Arpad
Source: Texas Monthly
1939 | Steven Arpad
Evening shoes | Black silk and black painted carved wood